Is my band still sharp?

cypresskayaksllc · March 06, 2012, 09:52:07 PM

Zing, its time to change the band. BANG!, change the band. But when there is no defined moment, when do I change the band? The gradual decline of sharpness. What is the final straw to make you change your band. Wavy cuts, slowed cuts, time used, bd/ft?

pineywoods · March 06, 2012, 09:55:20 PM

Watch the band when it exits the log. If it jumps either up or down from the kerf, it's time.to change it.

WDH · March 06, 2012, 10:29:24 PM

On my manual mill, it is when the waves start.

hackberry jake · March 07, 2012, 01:36:05 AM

I have a manual mill as well and I can normally tell by feed pressure and feed rate. Wavy cut means it's gone too far. Seems like every time I make a wavy cut it ends up on the side of at least 3 boards and irritates me.

Chuck White · March 07, 2012, 05:35:04 AM

cypresskayaksllc
It's pretty-much all that you've listed.

Lots of things will tell you when it's time to change the band!

kelLOGg · March 07, 2012, 06:08:11 AM

Quote from: pineywoods on March 06, 2012, 09:55:20 PM
Watch the band when it exits the log. If it jumps either up or down from the kerf, it's time.to change it.

Isn't that due to improper set? A newly sharpened band with teeth set more on one side than the other will exit as you describe - at least that's a reasonable explanation to me. After sawing, the set can change more on one side than the other depending upon what the teeth have encountered and jump up or down on exit. Sound reasonable?
bob

bandmiller2 · March 07, 2012, 06:32:37 AM

My bandmill is electric I can hear the band cutting,when it starts to dull,then comes wavy and rise and fall as you exit.If you hear a light tick tick,shutdown quick or bang,fudge rompers.After you've milled a wile you just know when the band has lost its keen.Frank C.

T Welsh · March 07, 2012, 06:38:30 AM

When you start having to push on it,its time. there are times when I am sawing it starts to wave for no good reason its time. depending what I am cutting and I do not want a bad cut (mostly crotches) I will change the blade to a fresh one to get the best results. if you think you need a new blade,its already time to change it. Tim

Magicman · March 07, 2012, 08:31:20 AM

Band deflection on exit is one dull indicator, but there are times when a band will deflect and still be sharp. For example, when squaring a cant and there is more wood below than above the band, or there is a knot on the log end. Also, a band may be dull and not deflect. A band that hits an unseen bit of gravel, rock, etc. may need changing and still be sharp.

I like T Welsh's description below; "if you think you need a new blade, its already time to change it".

tcsmpsi · March 07, 2012, 09:24:01 AM

Though I cut any number of species, syp is my primary. On any of the logs, I get a bit of a picture in my head of what their general outcome will likely be. I work to start a new band with larger diameter down to smaller diameter logs to get all the use from a band I can. As the blade gets more dull, it will still cut smaller diameter logs with little problem. When I start to have to push the head (as opposed to 'leaning' into it), sawing slows to the point it is time to change the blade. It is kinda that mixed with feeling and looking at the teeth/set.

In short, I'll put much more dull blade into smaller diameter logs than I would attempt with larger.

bugdust · March 07, 2012, 10:12:14 AM

I agree that there are several important indicators, but I usually notice the saw head speed slowing down, and may even stop while traveling. You may even notice blade tension will decrease due to the blade getting hot. Best indicator is she won't cut hot butter.

Bogue Chitto · March 07, 2012, 03:04:10 PM

I run the saw head speed up until I hear a singing of the blade. When that is gone I change the blade.

cypresskayaksllc · March 07, 2012, 08:47:48 PM

I was thinking about my question today. Maybe a manufacturer could get an optic sensor of some sort to detect blade sharpness/dullness. Maybe it could take a snap shot of the tip and measure the apex or point and be able to tell the operator when its time to change the blade. Maybe Ive been watching too many "hot its made" episodes. ;D

WDH · March 07, 2012, 10:05:52 PM

Michael,

Cutting the big logs first and finishing on smaller logs definitely extends the BF/blade. Another benefit is that the best grade from the bigger butt logs goes on the bottom of the sticker stack so that the smaller lower grade boards can provide suitable weight for the better grade boards ;D.

fat olde elf · March 08, 2012, 02:44:04 AM

All good toughts...How about the size of the sawdust ? I started out milling with an alaska mill with a 5 inch Husky saw. When the sawdust got really fine, the chain was dull. I also know that I pull bands off sooner since I can sharpen them myself. I like metal-free trees and sharp bands.....

tcsmpsi · March 08, 2012, 06:02:22 AM

Quote from: WDH on March 07, 2012, 10:05:52 PM
Michael,

Cutting the big logs first and finishing on smaller logs definitely extends the BF/blade. Another benefit is that the best grade from the bigger butt logs goes on the bottom of the sticker stack so that the smaller lower grade boards can provide suitable weight for the better grade boards ;D.

And those wider ones need all the help they can get. ;D

taylorsmissbeehaven · March 08, 2012, 08:13:37 PM

I have been cutting large poplar logs every night this week. Each evening I think its time for a new band but the scrooge in me says at least get the bark off the next one. and I do. It really depends on species and diameter. I enjoy seeing how far I can go, but hate to wreck good lumber because I was too cheap/lazy to throw on a sharp band. I guess its one of those things you just deal with.

hackberry jake · March 08, 2012, 09:24:05 PM

I find I've been taking them off much sooner since I've aquired an automatic sharpener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXIcvSgrN3M . Before it was $20 for a new band and $10 per band for sharpening/shipping. Now I can still use the bands that are worth less than $10 to me until they break. Who wants to spend a bunch of money on sharpening bands that are about to break?