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Post oak to flooring - need advice

Started by kelLOGg, March 16, 2013, 11:02:04 AM

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kelLOGg

I am sawing these 9' post oaks to flooring for a friend who wants the boards 3.5" wide x 5/4" thick. These dimensions were reccommended by his woodworker brother. (I will actually saw 7" wide and he will rip to final dimensions.)

I think 5/4" is too thick for such narrow boards and much of it will be wasted by planing. I will certainly saw what he wants but I want to offer the best advice I can.

The butt cut is 30" dia, the logs are very straight and have very few small knots except for the small end of the small log which has a 9" knot. I have sawn and dried the same size PO before but but with appreciable sweep and got flat lumber 14" wide and 1.125" thick. It will plane very nicely to 3/4" when I need it. I want him to get as much flooring as he can but I don't want to ill-advise him.
What do you think?
Bob





 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

MikeON

Unless he wants thick floor boards, I agree with you.  I would cut 1" or 1-1/16" to end up at 3/4", for such narrow boards where cupping will be minimal.  The occasional board that doesn't clean up will be more than made up for by more boards to choose from. 
On the other hand, you won't get two 3.5" wide boards out of a 7" wide board considering cutting off any side bend, plus the rip kerf and tongue & grooving. 
Woodmizer LT40HD Super.  WM Single Blade Edger,  John Deere 4310 tractor, M35A2C Deuce and a Half truck

woodworker9

I have never had a problem getting 3/4" thickness out of 4/4 sawn lumber (plus .125) unless the boards were very badly warped, and then they are firewood anyway.

5/4 would be very wasteful if the desired end is 3/4" flooring.....which there is no reason to have it be any thicker.

That's my .02.

Jeff
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

kelLOGg

Quote from: MikeON on March 16, 2013, 12:53:52 PM
On the other hand, you won't get two 3.5" wide boards out of a 7" wide board considering cutting off any side bend, plus the rip kerf and tongue & grooving.

That's a good point. All plans are tentative until I talk with him again.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

red oaks lumber

for what its worth... when i'm sawing lumber to make 3" cover floor it gets sawed at 8 1/4" wide. time it dries ripping 2 blanks works out nicely, all my wood is sawed 1 1/8 this allows for some sawing errors but , also helps saw faster.
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

mesquite buckeye

If you save 1/8 or 1/4 inch per cut, how many extra boards do you end up with (by cutting actual 4/4)? To take care of bow or crook, you can shorten the flooring pieces so each piece has less deviation.

I'd just cut them 4" wide, gaining more 4" X shorts coming into the log edges and tapers. That will leave you plenty to get 3 1/2 with a quarter inch tongue. Cutting narrower to begin with also simplifies the cupping problem, as it will be less on a narrow piece. 8) :snowball:
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

jdtuttle

I make flooring with a PH260 and 4/4 is fine for a 3/4" finished board. Ask him what he wants for a finished product. If he's looking for 3 1/2" wide I would cut them 4 1/2" at least. After they dry you will loose some when straightening and milling.
Have a great day

scsmith42

Bob, why don't you quartersaw those big logs?  It would yield a superior flooring product with a much more attractive appearance, and you could cut them all at max width and let him rip down as needed.

You will probably end up with a mix of 50% rift and 50% quarter.

Re the 5/4 thickness, they may want to have a finished floor at 1" instead of the usual 3/4.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

red oaks lumber

sawing 1x4's takes longer, more handling and they  twist and side bend alot more than sawing wider and ripping 2 blanks after drying.
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

qbilder

Quote from: scsmith42 on March 17, 2013, 09:52:06 AM
Bob, why don't you quartersaw those big logs?  It would yield a superior flooring product with a much more attractive appearance, and you could cut them all at max width and let him rip down as needed.

You will probably end up with a mix of 50% rift and 50% quarter.

Re the 5/4 thickness, they may want to have a finished floor at 1" instead of the usual 3/4.

Plus one. This was exactly my thoughts as soon as I saw the pic of those logs. 
God bless our troops

kelLOGg

Quote from: scsmith42 on March 17, 2013, 09:52:06 AM
Bob, why don't you quartersaw those big logs? 

I may do that - with my slow cable winch log handling capability there is really not much difference in time to QS and plainsaw. I haven't heard from the owner yet so I have not started to saw yet.
Thanks,
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

kelLOGg

Well, I QSed it and it was the most consistently beautiful oak I have seen.

Here are the quarters being separated.



 

And here is a closeup. Knots presented no problem at all (a first for me) and I used a band fresh out of the box. No waves, no rises, no diving of the band!



 

And the trailer loaded for delivery. I ended up sawing them 1" x 3.5" and got 362 bdft of nearly perfect lumber and some more with wane which is not shown but can be used for short flooring.



 


Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

woodworker9

That is going to make a great looking floor.  The ray fleck will pop when finished.

Jeff
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

clww

Quote from: woodworker9 on March 26, 2013, 04:52:37 PM
That is going to make a great looking floor.  The ray fleck will pop when finished.

Jeff

+1  :)
Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
"Go Ask The Other Master Chief"
18-Wheeler Driver

red oaks lumber

please tell me you are going to resticker the lumber!
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

kelLOGg

Quote from: woodworker9 on March 26, 2013, 04:52:37 PM
That is going to make a great looking floor.  The ray fleck will pop when finished.
Jeff

My thought is that the fleck pattern is so dramatic that dinner guests will want to dine on the floor thinking it is a table.  :D.  I think the customer will be pleased.


Quote from: red oaks lumber on March 26, 2013, 06:00:20 PM
please tell me you are going to resticker the lumber!

It is stickered only for delivery. I have kept it covered with a tarp while I was sawing to keep it from drying too fast.  Should I do more?

Bob

Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

5quarter

I deadstack and cover all the lumber coming off the saw and keep it that way til it goes into the stacks. you'll have to wrap that lumber up tight for the delivery to keep the airflow down. oak is particularly prone to surface checking. If it were me, I would restack without the stickers and still tarp it good. Great lumber, BTW.
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

scsmith42

Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

kelLOGg

Quote from: 5quarter on March 27, 2013, 01:36:01 AM
If it were me, I would restack without the stickers and still tarp it good. Great lumber, BTW.

Took your advice, 5Q.

Thanks to all for the compliments, and to Scott for suggesting QSing
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

mesquite buckeye

Super nice. I think post oak is one of many underrated lumber trees. ;D 8)
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

5quarter

Very nice work Bob. with lumber like that, I'm sure he'll be back for more. 8) 8)
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

kensfarm

Really nice..  I'm sure he'll tell his friends too!

kelLOGg

Quote from: 5quarter on March 28, 2013, 08:48:48 AM
Very nice work Bob. with lumber like that, I'm sure he'll be back for more. 8) 8)

You're already right. He's planning to cut more of his leaners before they fall. He was very lucky on the first one - the roots gave out and it fell perfectly parallel to the house. He's not banking on the same luck.
Bob

 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

thecfarm

I like the sky hook that the rope is hooked too.  :D  If I would of fell that tree across the walk way it would be all broke up.   ::)  My wife says I can break anything,which is true. I have heard of tires being put down first.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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