Help for Newbie

[Mrbrettbaker]

First time caller, long time listener.
I recently bought 16 wooded acres and while I only plan to clear enough to build on, open up a pond, and some drives and trails, I'd like to make use of the wood. I design and build machinery and automate existing machinery for a living, and have been amassing parts to build both a circular saw and a full automated band saw. I come here seeking knowledge. These are the first of many questions I have;
1. Everything I read says that I shouldn't cut any trees until I can process them, or at least debark them. Well, I have very little time until late winter, but also would like to cut enough trees to run a road to the back of the property. The trees are many pine. Is there a chance that the cold weather (Albany NY) would keep the bugs out until spring or should I plan on just cutting up this wood and burning it? 
2. I have a 42" circular saw blade with 36 fresh insert teeth. Cutting wet pine, what is the recommended RPM? I have a continental red seal power unit to run it, but also have a V8 if it's not enough. I'd like to set this up so that in the spring I can cut the trees into timbers to just quickly remove the bark, then cut boards later on the band saw I'm building. 
 3.the band saw I'm building will be on28 ft rails of 3x6 steel tubing (because I own them) using a big Kalamazoo Band saw that I've chopped up. I will run it with a PLC that I can program to cut my requested thickness and repeat until done. I plan to use actual blade load to set speed of travel, but I hav no idea what speed I should run the blade or how many TPM to start with.
Any help would be appreciated. I can build almost anything and have a weld shop and machine shop, but I don't know squat about trees. My knowledge of trees is there are pine trees and leaf trees

[redbeard]

Just a thought for you, you might consider finding a used bandmill that's in you budget and begin the learning process and many more  ideas will pop up every day as you use it. Most factory mills made can always use upgrades and modifications, tons of this on the forestry forum. You can always get your money back on a resale after you have completed your fabricated band mill.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Pine logs where you are shouldn't degrade a lot before spring, but if you can get them sawn and stacked for drying before it starts to warm up again, you'll avoid blue stain (if that matters to you). 

[Mrbrettbaker]

I already have everything needed to build it, and it will be capable of doing anything a used mill I might buy could. If need be I could go watch another mill work and measure the rpm, just thought this may be info someone here already knows. 

[Mrbrettbaker]

TerrificTimbers, thanks! Could you tell me about blue stain? If it's only cosmetic I don't care much, I will be using the lumber to build outbuildings or a barn.

[terrifictimbersllc]

It's a bluish stain that occurs in the wood, caused by fungal spores that affect the wood only in warm weather.  I think "summer cut pine" is a general term for pine that has it.  Yes it is only cosmetic for your uses.  Is regarded as a defect in some ways of evaluating the lumber. On the other hand more recently a lot of people really like it, lumber with it goes under the name of "denim pine".  

I attach an article on it below.

Search on blue stain in the FF search function you will read quite a bit about it.

[Mrbrettbaker]

Greatly appreciated

[DDW_OR]

i would suggest the Woodland Mills as a basic starter kit for your auto mill

here are some useful ideas

Useful sawmill mods in Sawmills and Milling
Stopping Falling Stickers.......Video by 123 Goat in Sawmills and Milling
Sawdust blower on a bandmill in Sawmills and Milling
what degree bandsaw blade in Sawmills and Milling
Observations of a New Sawyer in Sawmills and Milling
Blade Can in Sawmills and Milling

[WDH]

Excellent article on blue stain!

[Southside]

Welcome to the Forum.  A word of caution about your plan to saw cants at first, then lumber later, cants will develop face checking, twist, warp, and other defects that will impact the quality of the lumber you resaw out of them later. Also, dry wood is much more challenging to saw over green lumber, so if it's lumber you want then best to saw lumber the first time around. 

[Mrbrettbaker]

Thanks Southside, I will keep that in mind. I am only planning on cutting down as few as needed to get a road in before frost comes, and it's a matter of if I might salvage some of it in spring, or whether to just cut it up. Time wouldn't allow me to mill it even if my mill was ready. 
 This may sound stupid, but it I tore them out of the ground with the root balls, would that help in any way to preserve them for the winter? I have heavy equipment there, and have to pull the stumps anyway.

[Stephen1]

your trees/logs will be just fine left untill spring. Set them up on some bunks off the ground. drop them and build your road.

[Southside]

As far as excavator logging, the root balls won't do any good leaving them on this time of year.  I always cringe when I hear of someone dropping trees with an excavator they want sawn, inevitably the operator ends up pushing high up on the tree with the bucket and then pushes more and more as digging gets old, well those sticks will only take so much pushing - and it's not much - before they will split and break fiber in the log, you may not see it from the seat but, then when you saw them you discover all sorts of junk lumber that was ruined during harvest.  

[Mrbrettbaker]

This is why I came here to ask, thanks! Will cut them down them dig out stump separately