Sawmill Saw Head Thoughts

[dlh944]

I have been looking at multiple different sawmills. I am wondering if anyone has preferences or thoughts on different saw heads. i.e. 1 post woodmizer, 2 post, 4 posts...

Thanks for the feedback.

Dave

[tacks Y]

WM must have theirs perfected. If I was building it would be 4 post, seems easier to design. Ford/Chevy I drive Chevys.

[dgdrls]

IMHO,
1 post because its proven 
3 or 4 post make a soild base and opens your selection more.

D

[Magicman]

Actually the Wood-Mizer has 4 posts.  Two on the top of the rail/frame and two on the bottom.  The design allows for sawing large and oversized logs when they are positioned properly.  Here is a topic where I sawed a 42" Cypress:   LINK

[redprospector]

I think that like every other option on a mill, it depends on what you're sawing.
If I was sawing a lot of logs over 36" I would be real serious about looking at a WoodMizer. Most of the logs we get are under 30" so it's not worth me worrying about that too much.
On a 4 post you're limited by the distance between the posts, and the distance between the guide rollers. On the cantalever type of mill you've eliminated one of those limitations, and opened up other limitations that aren't a big concern on a 4 post.
They've all got their strong points, and they've all got limitations. You'll have to pick your own poison.

[AlaskaLes]

I went with a 4 post type mill. 
I like the stability of a 4 post and I really liked the hydraulics and diesel that my mill came with.

Clearly, they both work well enough, so it's just what you think would work better for you.

One other thing that helped my decision...and i don't want to rub the WM people the wrong way...
I read up on the WM modification thread and I didn't think a new mill should require all of those mods to be right,  so I found a mill that bypassed most of those repairs/corrections.

[Magicman]

One other thing that helped my decision...and i don't want to rub the WM people the wrong way...
I read up on the WM modification thread and I didn't think a new mill should require all of those mods to be right,  so I found a mill that bypassed most of those repairs/corrections.

There will not be any "rub the wrong way", but if this is the thread that you are referring to:  Useful sawmill mods then I would say that you misinterpreted the intent of the thread.  First, it is not a "Wood-Mizer" thread but intended for anyone to add any useful modification that they made to their sawmill for the benefit of all.  None of the modifications are required or need to be made in order for any sawmill, regardless of the brand name, to perform satisfactorily.

That being said, buying a sawmill is a very important decision for anyone to make.  Often times, a once in a lifetime purchase.  It should be made only after careful research and if possible hands-on experience with sawmills built by several manufacturers.

It certainly sounds like you did your research and made a decision that you are comfortable with, and for that I applaud you.

[barbender]

The stability of a 4 post versus a cantilever head is a non-issue, IMO. If I were looking at something other than a WM, it would be more avout having engine driven hydraulics vs 12 volt or something like that.

[DPatton]

The stability of a 4 post versus a cantilever head is a non-issue, IMO. If I were looking at something other than a WM, it would be more avout having engine driven hydraulics vs 12 volt or something like that.

I agree.

As a bandmill owner and follower of this forum I know you will find many other important differences between mill manufactures than just cutting head mounting . My advise would be to learn as much as you can about how the different mills systems operate and choose the one that's right for you and your sawing needs. Happy mill shopping and please post some pictures when you get your mill.

[4x4American]

They do what they're suposta do, I would look at different things to pick a mill over.  WM wouldn't have been in business long if their design was no good.

[killamplanes]

I run a 4 post tk. I didn't really go that route because of head. But because of full hyd on independent motor. And I stand at end running hydros etc,  Look at the complete mill. Don't get stuck on one perticular thing. Mine is electric for instance. I wouldn't have a gas/diesel. I flip a switch and it's game on. But no mobility, but for me I didn't want to be mobile. So look at total package to fit your needs.

[dlh944]

Hey Guys, Thanks for the input and thoughts. I figured the wood mizer, being around so long had no real issues, just good to hear others opinions. I've been trying to compile what options, accessories and motor size I think will fit me best. I will be sawing up reclaimed beams & logs, and fresh cut white pine, oak and maple. For the most part. I'll post pictures on whatever saw i pull the trigger on.

[Darrel]

I chose Wood-Mizer back in the day when it was the only narrow band mill to be had and it took me another 30 years to buy pull the trigger and buy a used one. That being said, the only real issue is what meets your needs.