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Author Topic: Saw Hammering  (Read 2167 times)

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Offline Farm Mechanic

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Saw Hammering
« on: September 25, 2020, 06:31:35 PM »
Does anyone know of any saw docís in the south eastern Ohio area? 

Offline dgdrls

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2020, 06:49:23 PM »
Hey Farm Mechanic,

Check/Google Jerry Albright  FRICKCO, INC. & ALBRIGHT SAW CO.
South Bloomingville Oh, 

D


Offline Farm Mechanic

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2020, 07:51:45 PM »
Iíll check that out. Thank you. 

Offline Farm Mechanic

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2020, 01:47:09 PM »
Well I had my saw hammered this past Thursday. Tried it out today and have a lot of wobble. Actually I believe it to be more than before hammering. What could cause this? 

Offline Don P

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2020, 05:00:01 PM »
Check the runout on your collars?
A laborer works with his hands
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An artist uses his brain, his hands, and his heart

Offline dgdrls

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2020, 10:12:22 PM »
I agree with Don P.

What are the specs  on the blade
and your your mill? 


D

Offline Don P

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2020, 10:46:28 PM »
Vary the speed and see if it runs true at a different speed might be another thing to try.
A laborer works with his hands
A craftsman uses his brain and his hands
An artist uses his brain, his hands, and his heart

Offline Farm Mechanic

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2020, 11:17:45 AM »
My saw collars are junk. The mandrel side collar is machined flat and actually smaller diameter than the nut side collar. I read somewhere on this forum that very old mandrel collars were actually machined flat and Iím guessing the nut side collar was a later addition. As far as the specs on the mill and blade I have no idea. I donít know what make or era the mill is from. The blade is a 44Ē 3 style with 24 teeth and that is all I know about it. I plan to have a set of new collars machined. Does anyone have any guidance or suggestions on that procedure? 

Online Ron Wenrich

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #8 on: October 06, 2020, 11:50:42 AM »
If your collars aren't the same size, you won't get the saw to run.  I know of a mill that had their collars not being the same size, and it took them a long time to figure it out.  Their saw doc was the one that figured it out.  
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #9 on: October 06, 2020, 12:36:41 PM »
There are quite a few publications on this subject. Both Hoe and Simonds handed them out. There is one by Lundstrum, spelling incorrect, on ebay. I has a blue cover and shows a man holding a straight edge to a saw. That's the best one. You need to get it. I posted a long winded post on my knowledge of saw mandrels but every time I get long winded the post disappears.

Offline Don P

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #10 on: October 06, 2020, 05:47:43 PM »
Uh, yeah I think I did that this morning  :D
I try to remember to right click, select all, copy, then hit the post button. If the computer eats it I can open the post button back up and right click then hit paste and then the post button again and it'll usually go. It happens using internet explorer, doesn't seem to happen using microsoft edge.
A laborer works with his hands
A craftsman uses his brain and his hands
An artist uses his brain, his hands, and his heart

Offline Farm Mechanic

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #11 on: October 06, 2020, 06:45:01 PM »
Does anyone have drawings or specs to get collars made? I now have a 2 7/16Ē mandrel and currently have a 44Ē saw to run. However down the road if I am able to get the bugs worked out I hope to put the 56Ē back on.

Offline dgdrls

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #12 on: October 06, 2020, 10:33:36 PM »
Pages 19 & 20 USDA "Circular Sawmills and their Efficient Operation"  By S.J. Lunstrum

https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/cirsaw.pdf

D




Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #13 on: October 07, 2020, 08:01:06 AM »
Uh, yeah I think I did that this morning  :D
I try to remember to right click, select all, copy, then hit the post button. If the computer eats it I can open the post button back up and right click then hit paste and then the post button again and it'll usually go. It happens using internet explorer, doesn't seem to happen using microsoft edge.
Thanks Don, have to put my wife on it. We have microsoft edge.

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #14 on: October 07, 2020, 08:13:10 AM »
The fixed collar is a big deal. It is heated and shrunk on the shaft. This is called interference fit. A machinist's hand book will give the spec's to do this. The collar is cast iron to my knowledge. It may also be keyed. The undersized hole dia. depends on the dia. of shaft. Then it goes in the lathe and the face is cut on a taper where it contacts the saw, the outer edge of collar. The taper is something like 2 to 3 thousands on a say 3/8" outer rim.  The loose collar is done the same.    If you fixed collar is tight [very tight] on the shaft I would keep it and go from there.

Offline Farm Mechanic

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #15 on: October 07, 2020, 09:01:21 AM »
Well I just had the mandrel made this spring to match the fast collar. I heated and removed it before having  the new one made. The collar is an interference fit with a dowel completely through the entire diameter of the collar and mandrel. I was just going to have a new set made, both the fast and loose collar ďnot sure on terminology of collarsĒ. A fresh start if I could get drawings to send to the machinist. 

Offline Farm Mechanic

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #16 on: October 07, 2020, 09:05:31 AM »
If I can get home in time today I will remove it from the mill and disassemble for some pictures and measurements to post. If I can save whatís there that would be the most cost efficient I think. If itís salvageable. 

Offline Farm Mechanic

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #17 on: October 07, 2020, 04:38:58 PM »
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Offline Farm Mechanic

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #18 on: October 07, 2020, 04:41:09 PM »
The pictures arenít as clear as I had hoped but it paints a better picture that my words alone. What do you all recommend I do to resolve this issue? Salvage what I have or start all over? I plant to run a 56Ē saw so from my research these collars arenít large enough anyways but I would like to know your thoughts. 

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Saw Hammering
« Reply #19 on: October 07, 2020, 06:09:42 PM »
So the loose collar is from some other mill. It is made the way, the contact area, the way the fixed collar should be. If that fixed collar is really tight it could be machined to grip the saw on it's rim. [and tapered]. Then a loose collar would have to be made to match.                When I went through all this and did it all wrong, I wound up in a sawmill machine shop and had another mandrel made. They would not use a fixed collar that hade been removed or anything else. It had to be done their way with their parts. The impressive part was the way they straightened the new shaft before cutting the collars. This is a big deal if you have more than 2 bearings.  That thru pin is something I have not seen. The older mills used small dia. collars , that is less than 6". Nothing wrong with your photos. You may have read that old mills had flat collars and they may have run even gage saws but tightening the collar can turn out and not hold the saw at it's rim. That's why the taper. 


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