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Chainsaw driven debarker?

Started by TmbrWlkr, April 26, 2021, 10:28:25 PM

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TmbrWlkr

So I have been watching Youtube videos of Maple82 - who has a Norwood HD36, same as I do.  He uses an electric Stihl 220 with a Log Wizard to debark logs before milling.  Seems to work slick.  I have a 170 with a 14" bar that I am considering setting up to run a similar tool.  ( I know they are dangerous, so a light weight saw has its attractions.)  My question is does this saw have enough ass to drive the debarker blades effectively.  I have several 50cc saws that could be put to the task, but they are considerably heavier.  My concept is to use the debarker once the log is on the mill and I have eyed up my cutting line - this would entail using the saw chest height, so weight might be an issue.  Is kickback an issue; I don't imagine it would be as the blades are rotating towards the operator, but .......seems more likely to eat your toes or shins when using it on the ground.

Anyone out there have experience with this style tool, and using a "EDITED BY ADMIN" saw to power it ?

Brian_Rhoad

I used one on a McCulloch Pro Mac 700. More power than necessary. I think a 170 would work ok. I used a 20" bar. I would try a 16" or 18" bar on the 170. It's much easier to use with a longer bar. You don't have to reach out as far with the longer bar. The Log Wizard is made of aluminum so it isn't very heavy. The blades, bearings and bolts are the only steel parts. 

Gere Flewelling

I have one of those de-barkers I purchased a few years back.  I put it on a Home Depot Poulan chainsaw with a 16" bar.  It worked very well on that sized saw.  It was the saw that gave me trouble.  You get what you pay for.  I put it on a Craftsman corded electric chainsaw with a 16" bar.  I thought it would work much better.  Turns out the chain tensioning system on the Craftsman saw couldn't handle the somewhat violent action of the rotary head cutting into the wood.  I couldn't keep the chain tight.  I still have the tool, but haven't felt the need to use it for a couple of years now.  I use a big coarse wire brush most of the time.  Fortunately it is a relatively inexpensive tool, so if it works for you the way you want it to, that's great.  If it doesn't, you aren't out a lot of $$$.
As far as safety is concerned, I think common sense plays a big role.  If you have been accused of not having any, I would suggest one not go that route.  Always use the de-barker while drawing it back towards you.  Never while pushing it away.  Good luck!   GF
Old 🚒 Fireman and Snow Cat Repairman (retired)
Matthew 6:3-4

doc henderson

I put it on an old bar for my 046.  it has plenty of power.  It is not a refined machine.  It is basically a planer head that has a shaft and bearing to mount to a bar.  i would not be in a rush to let my 20 y/o son use it.  It requires careful consideration of the the application.  I think a heavy saw helps to smooth it out a bit, so it is not jumping around as it cuts.  I used it to finish hollowing out the underside of a big stump table.  first with chainsaws, and this to smooth it out.  clunky until I established a flat smooth surface.



 

 

 

it uses common hand held power planer blades, I think 3.25 inches.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

SpaceBus

I have thought about getting something like this from time to time. If I were to ever get one, I would use a junky chain and grind the cutters off. 
Logosol F2+
Various Chainsaws

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