Making it through another year '21-'23

[Old Greenhorn]

Well, it's been a week since the last update here. I have had bits and pieces on other threads, and the weather has been more prominent here lately. It's gotten consistently colder, we had snow Sunday into Monday and I didn't bother plowing which was likely a mistake because I thought it would melt off like other early December snows, but no, not this time. It has only broken 32° for a few minutes all week. Last night dropped to around 16 or so and it never broke 31 today. It was between 18 and 21 while I was at the mill this morning and early afternoon. More milling was not in my plans, but, somebody changed my plans. Still I am trying to get shop stuff done in the mornings, then again later in the afternoon, sometimes evening, based on the needs of the work on the bench. Still juggling several benches and stools, as well as the bar as an afterthought.
 Some of this might be a slight repeat, but I have 5 projects working and another in the "almost working" sage as I figure out what it is.
 The first bench you all saw and it has had it's 3 coats of wax, got a blanket and put in stock.  The second bench, also got it's 3 coats of wax and I just blanketed that today.


 

That one came out pretty nice.
The third bench, actually more of a stool, is also looking nice, photos never really show it well, but I like it.


 


I do like the way the edge came out on this.


 

 It's a very stable little stool, comfy to sit on at 12" high.

 The 4th one is probably one of the nicest I have produced when it comes to grain figure and it was certainly not one of the best when I started on it with all the branch grain involved it planed out poorly and I had a lot of work to do the make it smooth and clean. This one got square blind splines and I had to take pieces for other slabs, so when I started it was kind of a 'use stuff up' bench, as I get near completion, it is turning out as one of my nicest pieces (in my small mind) I have made so far.


 

The grains on this are interesting and the figure is 'attractive' (to me anyway). It was going to go cheap, but I think this one asks for a better price if I can get it. These last two benches just have the last coat of finish on them, I still have to wait a day or two and then wax (assuming I can keep the shop warm enough through that period).

 

 Bench/stool #5 is going to be similar to stool #3 but I still have to finish the legs, the seat is ready to drill.

 Bench/table #6 is in rough work right now and I don't know yet what it will become yet. I keep looking at the red oak slab which I did all the work on 2 years ago and then it sat. What I do know is that the  R/O legs (which I also roughed out 2 years ago) will be a new design. I had a brain fart and decided to try something different (again). I have these 3x3 legs and cutting tenons, as previously mentioned, has not gone well, but I thought of another route. So I set up this rig.


 

 I have 2 tables on one of my drill presses. The upper one is a standard and the lower one is a 'production table'. I flipped the top one to 90°, set up a stop and set up to bore 1-1/4" holes into the end of the leg.



 

 I purchased a R/O dowel at HD and cut it into pieces of the right length. The dowel will be glued or epoxied into the leg and the whole thing will be glued or epoxied into the table/bench thingy.



 

 I will put nice chamfers on the legs before I go further and also have some epoxy fills on rough spots to do, but I've been holding off on making dust with all the finishing work going on. Maybe this dang storm coming in will give me an excuse to blow off the milling work and have a solid day or two in the shop.
 Monthly food shopping tomorrow then I am hoping to get in enough time at the mill to finish off the shed order. I will still have the slab order I got last night, but that will have to wait a bit and Bill will have to find me a big log to make that one. Why does everyone want 12-16' slabs? ;D :D What's the matter with a nice 8' table?

 Anyway, in general the work is going well and I seem to be productive (for an old guy) but I can see I have to do something about firewood, and soon. The new shop stove works great, as good as I had hoped for, but I need wood. I was so busy with milling work and building that I couldn't get my time in on the firewood. At some point I have to shift gears and get on the stick and make that wood my priority because the house and shop are both gonna be very short indeed. I screwed up and now it's a real problem. I guess I'll be out splitting green wood in the snow. Major miscalculation or misjudgment on my part, still trying to figure out this 'retirement schedule'. 

 Tomorrow is another day, all I can do is keep on keeping on. That's all that I think anyone can do.

[Walnut Beast]

Looking good 👍 

[Old Greenhorn]

I try, all I can do is what I can do.

[Wlmedley]

Tom,a friend of mine who I used to work with called to check on me today and asked how the sawmill hobby was going.I told him I was still cutting but didn't really have any plans for the lumber.Mentioned that I was thinking about building a woodshed on skids that maybe someone would be interested in buying.He said as soon as I get it built to give him a call as his FIL needs one bad.Don't really know how to price one but I figured I will add up board footage and hardware and go from there. Thanks again for the idea.Might get a few out and have something to keep busy this winter.Benches look good.What is the problem with the tenon cutter? I was thinking about buying one.

[Old Greenhorn]

It seems like it's just me, but I cant get good clean tenons with it and have to do a lot of fixing on the sander. I get better results on green wood, but still not great. On dry wood it is really rough. Perhaps I am turning it too fast is the issue. I'll see if I can find the thread we we discussed all this a ways back.

[doc henderson]

Tom, I had that problem early on with a rough tenon but adjusted the depth of the cutter and it evened out.  I ended up with sales, and it being the holiday, getting some of their stuff.  the log clamp and the sled.  I had a Milwaukee hole hog and thought that was the drill in the pic.  bought on clearance when Lowes cleared out Milwaukee and start stocking Craftsman (a brand I have sworn off since all the sears mess).  It was new in box half price.  It will not work with the sled, but the 1660-6 does.  the point is in the process, I spoke with one of the new owners who answers the phone and had a great conversation.  Ideas about making it work, but the one it is designed for is the 1660.  they are working with Bosch for another option.  The bigger point is you might call them and see if the understand a remedy.  I told him about the forum, so please mention I recommended you call.  Very informative and easy to talk too.  i think his name was Mark.  the person who answered initial was a nice woman and I asked for a technical person, and she transferred me, but "mark" said she could have answered my question too.  If you have pics, you can email it to him as well.  I have thought for a while, the problem could be adjusted out, but did not want to get in the middle of it as I know you are very capable.  If you find your thread on the issue yu might sent it to their email.  I mentioned to him, he might consider becoming a spencer on the FF, and he said he would look into it.

[Old Greenhorn]

Well I am pretty dang certain that I am spinning this tool WAY too fast and it bounces like mad all over the place. I need to find something with the torque but also much slower like 300rpm or so.
 After thinking on it for a few years now and trying different things I am pretty sure that until I get the RPM under control, and other adjustments I make won't really show up. I'll check what the speed is on that drill and let everyone know. It's not a huge priority and I like being forced to try other things (a little bit). For certain applications, that dowel could work really well.... I think.

 I did go back and look for the thread covering when I got this tool, but it seems my info is spread over over several threads around may/june/july of 2019. Wlmedley, if you do a search here for 'Benches' you should find some good threads that cover Doc, WV, and myself using these tools. Also there is a lumberjack tool thread.

[doc henderson]

thanks

[Old Greenhorn]

Confirmed, I just did a test with a dewalt battery drill at slower speeds and it was improved. The battery drill is not a solution, just a test for the speed. I think I will go ahead and setup a rigid setup in the drill press as I think I can get the rpm low enough, then I can start tweaking the tool. When I first got that tool, the drill press was not available, now it is. But I have to head to the mill, more stuff got added again last night. We may get up to a foot of snow tomorrow night. I feel run hard and put up wet.

[doc henderson]

My drill press is adjustable to and fro.  Delta radial drill press.  good for a test, but you could build a jig if you like it and do not want a big gear reduced drill.  If you were closer I would sell you my hole haug but it is heavy.  I made a brace with angle iron to clamp the leg in.

[bigblockyeti]

I would think a hole hawg would work as low speed is right at 300rpm while my 1660-6 is 450rpm.  Is it the way the drill is fixtured on the sled that won't allow it to work?  I've used one free handed before and it cut great but I don't own any of them, I'm hoping to change that soon but I haven't seen anything about using a sled before.  Usually I just turn what I need on the lathe which is very handy for sneaking up on the exact diameter.

[doc henderson]

yes, the hole haug is very torquey due to gear reduction (350 rpm low).  there is the handle with the trigger and there needs to be a threaded hole for the pipe handle opposite the trigger handle to keep the drill chuck in the midline, so it lines up with the vise/clamp part.  the hole haug has parts of the house forward of the trigger out even with the front of the chuck.  the clamp part of the sled secures the pipe.  with the hole haug, it puts the chuck about two inches to the side of the centerline of the clamp, and outside the adjustment range side to side.  It only had two side holes for the pipe handle, and neither are opposite in line with the chuck.  the sled also had a part with a U-shaped grove for the chuck to be stabilized in.  I tried to turn it upside down to allow the HH to work, but then it is misaligned.  the 1660-6 runs at 450 rpms.  clear as mud.  I bout it on sale because I figured I would treat myself and not spend time doing R&D, so I do not want to modify this new tool.  I am mounting it so it can be easily used, and nor require tons of set up when I want to make a bench or other log furniture. 
the HH would be great for free hand and work with the clamp that way, but the sled was 80 dollars off.  80 DOLLARS OFF! .  there website has video, and I can post pics if that would be helpful.
    

[bigblockyeti]

yes, the hole haug is very torquey due to gear reduction (350 rpm low).  there is the handle with the trigger and there needs to be a threaded hole for the pipe handle opposite the trigger handle to keep the drill chuck in the midline, so it lines up with the vise/clamp part.  the hole haug has parts of the house forward of the trigger out even with the front of the chuck.  the clamp part of the sled secures the pipe.  with the hole haug, it puts the chuck about two inches to the side of the centerline of the clamp, and outside the adjustment range side to side.  It only had two side holes for the pipe handle, and neither are opposite in line with the chuck.  the sled also had a part with a U-shaped grove for the chuck to be stabilized in.  I tried to turn it upside down to allow the HH to work, but then it is misaligned.  the 1660-6 runs at 450 rpms.  clear as mud.  I bout it on sale because I figured I would treat myself and not spend time doing R&D, so I do not want to modify this new tool.  I am mounting it so it can be easily used, and nor require tons of set up when I want to make a bench or other log furniture.
the HH would be great for free hand and work with the clamp that way, but the sled was 80 dollars off.  80 DOLLARS OFF! .  there website has video, and I can post pics if that would be helpful.
   

Pictures would be helpful for me.  I don't mind turning, it just takes longer than needed at times and never does it not make a huge mess.  I have two hole hawgs and I think I've got maybe $70 in both, bought broken and fixed them, one was brand new.  My 1660-6 I'm only pretty sure it was used at least once before I bought it but not positive, it was $20.  I haven't found a good deal I can pass up yet.

[Old Greenhorn]

Well I don't want to beat this to death. The lumberjack tool is a good tool, I just don't have a lot of time to put into it to make it work better. Yesterday afternoon I did make time to do a rigid setup in the drill press and the whole thing danced so much that it shook the morse taper loose on the chuck... 4 times. I couldn't find a different chuck to try. It appears to me that the tool is not running true to the shank, but I would have to setup an indicator to check that, and again, play time is short.
 It could be that I have the red homeowner version and these are not made as well, but I don't know. Yeah, I might give them a call since Doc informed they are available to help, but before I do that I would want to have some solid data in my hands as discussion points.
 I am also always looking for better, faster, or more accurate ways to do things lest I get in a rut. ;D
 To that end I tried this yesterday morning.



 

Again, it was a rigid setup with everything clamped in. I used a hole saw with no pilot and a piece of pine as a sample. Cut like a dream. Trimmed around the tenon with a saw. Sizing it is another matter. I just grabbed a hole saw that was close and it made a tenon that was about 1-1/16" in diameter, which was loose in the forstener bit hole. Still, it worked so next time I have time I will do some searching for a saw that will get closer to the 1-1/4 or 1-1/8 diameter I want, or get a bit that will match. Either way, it is pretty quick and I can come up with a quicker way to clean off the waste on basically round legs. This is just a fill in to keep my brain busy in off moments, not  burning issue at all.
==================

Yesterday I worked in the shop until 11am then grabbed a sammich and headed to the mill. I finished off the 4th shed order while breaking another blade for no apparent reason. This one I think was caused by these half frozen EWP logs. I was cutting at a good clip and the blade broke right at a 5" diameter round knot that was harder than crazy. I had a decent amount of time on that blade but it wasn't dull quite yet. Put in a new one and picked up right where I left off with no changes, no idea.
 After that was all done and I delivered the lumber to the shop, I headed back home to my shop, messed with the tenon tools and got another stool seat drilled out. Today I'll do the legs on it and worked on the next legs (with the dowels) for the yet to be determined table/bench.
 We also have a storm coming in that has a forecast all over the map between rain and snow. We could get up to a foot....or not. One thing is, this one I will have to plow. So I need to do final snow prep today and get the plow on the Mule. I'm not in the mood, but nobody asked me. :D
 I continue to be pleased with the shop stove. 59 out there when I got up this morning and 23 outside.

[Hilltop366]

You Can Make This; Tenonizer's TC 22 Drilling Jig, For Cutting Round Tenons on a Table Saw,  - YouTube

Something like  this looks like (at the 1:30.15 mark) it does a nice job, easily adjustable and smooth finish and it does't care what shape or how straight the leg is.

I did notice it cuts from the back of the saw which would give it a smoother finish and direct the saw dust away from you.

[Ljohnsaw]

it worked so next time I have time I will do some searching for a saw that will get closer to the 1-1/4 or 1-1/8 diameter I want, or get a bit that will match.

I have a bit tucked away somewhere :  It is a spiral bit like a brace & bit but has an adjustable width tip.  That's the thing you need.  If I find it, I'll post a picture.  You can buy them new.

[Old Greenhorn]

Great Idea John! I think I have one around here somewhere, I'll have to hunt for it when I can bend over again. :D :D
 The only concern is the length of the pilot on it. I bore pretty close to the far side and I am afeared the pilot may pop through. But it's worth a shot.
 I won't be doing much more today. I was moving some stuff around outside before the snow and I guess I reached a bit too far throwing some firewood rounds up higher on the pile. I tweaked it up right good and hitching up the plow was an adventure in slow movement and pain. I could call the chiro, but it's the end of the month and cash is less than short. Besides, he's a busy guy.

[21incher]

Late to the show but I had a problem with cut quality on my Lumber Jack stake pointer and they sent me a blade shim that fixed it. Apparently mine was a early one that was changed over time. Definitely contact them.

[Don P]

There's 2 of the adjustable bits left of my tape. That's how i've done what you are doing there.
Dad gave me another... Anybody need a brace?




That screwdriver on the left predates screwguns but in the right circumstances.

[Old Greenhorn]

Don, I was taught that the drill on the left was called a "Yankee Drill" and it had straight flute drills as well as flat and Philips bits, usually stored in the hollow handle. My Dad used one to great extent doing thousands of holes when I was little and it was an early tool for me in my education. A little tricky to get good with at first, but you could move along pretty quick when you got the hang of it. (AND... the batteries never went dead. ;D )

I bet if I look hard I will find more than 4 of them around my little complex here. Actually, I may find a box full given enough time. Dad put a 'modern' one with plastic handle and 6-8 bits in it in my first tool box kit for Christmas when I was about 8. He didn't buy a kit from the store, he got a tool box and hand picked all the tools. I still have that drill here in the house and the wife is still trying to get the hang of it. :D ;D

[47sawdust]

Tom,you are too far left.
That is a Yankee Drill, the expansion bits are Just to the left of the tape.

[Old Greenhorn]

Tom,you are too far left.
...

Was that a political assessment? :D :D ;D Nobody has ever accused me of that until just now. :D
Yes, I saw those bits too, and knew what John and Don were talking about because I am also sure I can lay my hands on several of each of those tools in the photo. I fact, 6 years ago when I first started to clean my shop in the hopes of retirement I began to put tools together thinking I would find them easier, when needed. :D In very short order I wound up with no less than 6 braces and several boxes of augers. I even have a 4' auger extension for running holes through joists and studs for wiring.
 The somewhat older tools I am pretty well versed in, it's all the new fangled stuff that I have to work to keep up with. Danged Whipper-snappers!

[Old Greenhorn]

Late to the show but I had a problem with cut quality on my Lumber Jack stake pointer and they sent me a blade shim that fixed it. Apparently mine was a early one that was changed over time. Definitely contact them.

21, how long ago did you buy that tool? I bought mine in 2019. I am VERY reluctant to put any blame on the tool. I did tooling trouble shooting my entire career and spent time with a lot of cutting tool engineers and took many 'factory classes' to learn about designs and applications. I even designed cutting tools at a couple of places. In nearly 50 years of that, I have found exactly one instance where the tool was made incorrectly, an actual defect. (That was a box of solid carbide, TiN coated High Helix end mills running in 304 SS when that was cutting edge tech (pardon the pun.) They had negative clearance on the OD primary edge, a definite non-starter, but a little very hard to see on a 5/32 diameter tool without the right inspection tools.)
 I would like to chat with these guys, but I think it would be unprofessional to call them and just say " this thing don't cut right, what should I do?" I received thousands of those calls and hated every one. I need to do a full assessment on the tool and learn whatever I can about the runout, if any, the blade alignment with relation to center and any other info I can glean. I'll likely also need a few photos of the resulting cuts. This will give the person helping me a fighting chance of making a good and faster decision on what would be most helpful. Just knowing there is somebody there willing to get into it is enough for me to do the homework. Many places these days just sell you the tool, then get really aggravated if you call and have issues. Most times you can't even get a knowledgeable person on the phone, just a sales person who likely has never even used the tool in question. I just need the time to do my part properly first.
 With my back being messed up, I may be able to get up the stairs and work on this a little, but I have been staying pretty sedentary, because that's the only thing that doesn't hurt. ;D

[doc henderson]

I have called twice, and mark has been very helpful.  a new owner in the past year and the pic on the website looks like a 10-person operation.  they either have solutions or want to know if there is an "other problem".  I tried to put the clamp together last pm, and the "jam nut" will not thread.  I got the heavy duty with I think an acme thread not just a carriage bolt.  my steak pointer runs a little rough and we spoke about that.  He did not take it too hard that I had a problem and gives you the feeling if the tool had problems, he would tell you that and how to fix it.  He would also prob./poss. like your input and again he knows your name and is expecting a call at your leisure.  I think it is generally a little of both, meaning the tool and the operator have some quirks and are subject to a learning curve.   .  I suggested also that he look at comments here by searching lumberjack tools.  I feel like the FF and their company may have things to offer, and suggested he consider being a forum sponsor.

[Don P]

 I took that pic just a week or two ago in a cleanup wave that approached one wall. Remembering the handplane thread I took a picture of these but did not make it to the few old handplanes back there. When y'all were talking about those bits I remembered that Maxwell house can. The smooth shanked expanding bit looks like the one I was using, it has been chopped for a 3 jaw chuck, I confess :D.

Just took the trash down and planed some more white oak for a painted porch floor at work. uhh, they ain't getting this white oak to paint!