Sharpener

[Chuck White]

I've had this unsetter for a few years now, and it still works very well.
It doesn't reset the teeth to zero, the set after the band has been pulled through is around .012-.015!
The main result I was looking for was that the set is even (for a starting point) it's full length!

Bandsaw tooth "unsetter" in Sawmills and Milling (forestryforum.com)

[Chuck White]

I'm new to sharpening and setting
What do you folks use to move an over set tooth ?
I would like to make a de setter if anyone has close up pictures.

I use a salvaged bolt with a notch cut in the end of it, cut with my angle grinder with a cutoff disk installed.
Just set the notch down over the tooth and with just a little pressure, pull it towards you.
I've also read here on the Forum where some have reset a tooth with their setter.

[trimguy]

For an overset tooth I use lineman pliers. I have a set I leave laying with the setter. 

[Gere Flewelling]

I have a homemade de-setter roller that I attach to my dual tooth setter.  I de-set all my blades every time I sharpen.  I use the blade advancer on the setter to pull the blades through the rollers.  Once I have de-set all the blades, I sharpen, de-burr, and then reset.  The roller will lift off the setter so it doesn't interfere with re-setting .  The roller will consistently reduce set to .010".  I then re-set to between .025"-.030".  This has given smooth cuts consistently for me. 

 

 

 

 

 
I purchased the rollers from Surplus Center.  They are made to install on the end frame of trucks to keep the frame from dragging on the ground.  Rollers with roller bearings might work better.

[KenMac]

Very neat looking set up. sir. Have you ever tried setting directly after desetting then sharpening? I know opinions vary on procedure here, so I'm just wondering if you've tried it and why you  choose the more involved way.

[Gere Flewelling]

I have not tried setting the teeth after de-setting.  It might work just fine.  In my thinking, I want the setting of the sharpened teeth to be the last thing I do in the process.  I find sharpening tends to leave a bit of a wire edge on the very point of the left teeth that though doesn't seem to affect cutting, but does give a false reading on the dial indicator on that side of the setter.  I have tried some variations in the procedure getting to this point.  The system I am using has provided the best sawing results for me.  Smooth and efficient cutting being the ultimate goal. 

[Chuck White]

Set then sharpen!

[Jim_Rogers]

Many years ago, there was a writer for the Northern Logger magazine, who had an article about sawmilling every issue. I would say his name, but I might not have it right from memory.
So, anyway, after reading about his work with circular saw blades, his article banner changed, and it also showed a bandsaw blade.
After seeing that banner I wrote to the magazine and suggested a question. That was: "what do you do first? set or sharpen?" 
He replied in his article, and it was his advice to set first then sharpen. This was so that the sharpened tooth would be at the right 90° angle to the center line of the blade.

I don't know if that is the industry standard procedure or not.
But that is what he said, then.

Jim Rogers

[Chuck White]

Thanks for posting a little history on the subject, Jim!

Here on the Forestry Forum, I remember reading where Mr. Tom explained why it makes more sense to set then sharpen, because it keeps the tooth at 90° to the wood.

[jimbarry]

This is the method I follow.



 

[Gere Flewelling]

Thank you guys for sharing your wisdom and experience on this subject.  I tend to get a little stubborn when I think I have figured something out and others don't agree with me.  You guys made some good arguments as to why there is a better way.  I tried the de-set and reset technique this morning on four blades in need of sharpening.  I haven't used them yet, but after looking at jimbarry's pictures and related explanation I certainly see these bands should cut better.  I hope to give them a try this week on some hemlock framing lumber I have been sawing.
Thanks Chuck White for giving me the idea how to build a de-setting roller device, thanks Jim Rodgers for showing the article explaining why one should set before sharpening, and jimbarry for the pictures showing what is actually what the profiles actually look like when sharpened in this way.
I think this "old dog" may have learned a new trick.  ;)

[Jim_Rogers]

I try to keep an open mind that I may learn something new at all times. I may try something new and find that my way is better. But at least I tried. 
Your way may work for you. But if you try another way you may find something new that also works.

Jim Rogers

[Bruno of NH]

I stayed away from it because of the extra time I would put into doing it.
But I'm getting better and faster every week.
I could only find a single tooth setter available to buy right off.
When I find a double tooth setter for a good price I will buy one.
I was overwhelmed at first because I have 150 to do.
My new system , sharpen what's in the weeks rotation and when one breaks or can't be sharpened pull one out of the pile and add that in.
The others won't go bad waiting .⁰

[mudfarmer]

Anyone have experience with a Wright Machine sharpener or Suffolk setter? Just ended up with these for the price of "get them out of my way and put them to use."

Luckily came with manuals, spare parts and junk blades to practice on so I don't ruin any of mine figuring it out!



 

[barbender]

I have a Suffolk's setter. It works great once you get dialed in for the particular blade you're setting. By that I mean, you'll want to sharpen and set your blades in batches, so the width of the band and more importantly the tooth height is the same from blade to blade. If the tooth height is different, the amount of set will be different too. 

 It's also a little finicky to adjust the set amount from side to side, as the adjustment on one side affects the other. Have you by chance ever tuned an electric guitar with a floating tremolo?😁 It's similar in that way...but once you get it dialed, it can fly through blades! 

 One thing you need to watch closely with a dual tooth setter is the blade weld location. A lot of times, your 3 tooth pattern of left, right, raker, will be thrown off at the weld and you will be setting a right set tooth to the left. I mark the weld and start there.

[ladylake]

 
I have the same sharpener and setter. If you have trouble breaking teeth off when setting turn the blocks the push the teeth upside down so the point pushes lower on the tooth rather than on the brittle end..  Works great , I just adjust the blade so the bottom of the gullet is just below  the clamp which only takes seconds for different thickness blades.  The Wright sharpener has worked good and still does after around 10000 blades through it..  I did have to replace a couple of little bearings that ride on the cam.  Steve


 Did you get a handle with your setter.

[jpassardi]

I try to keep an open mind that I may learn something new at all times. I may try something new and find that my way is better. But at least I tried.
Your way may work for you. But if you try another way you may find something new that also works.

Jim Rogers

OK, I seldom qoute but I try to live by this. If you think you're always the smartest guy in the room eventually you won't be.
Keep an open mind and when something doesn't work figure out why and learn from it.

Regarding desetting: I'm far from an expert on this but I would avoid de-setting excessively as it stresses the tooth (the hardest part of the blade) every time it's set or de-set.

[mudfarmer]

Thanks barbender and ladylake!

Never tuned an electric guitar with floating tremolo....

Yes the setter did come with a handle. Looking forward to running 10,000 blades through!!

[barbender]

Haha the floating tremolo was kind of an out there comparison. But what happens is you tune your E (lowest) string, then you tune the A, on down through the other 4. Problem is, the bridge is attached to a spring, so every string you tighten, takes tension off the first one you tuned. So you have to run through it LOTS of times! 😁 How that relates to the Suffolks, is you have one side setting say,  .020" and the other .025". So you adjust the low side up to .025"...now the other side drops to .023"😵‍💫 So you just have to fiddle with it a bit to get both sides to match. Once you do though, you'll be sailing through the blades like nobody's business. It can't take more than a minute to set a blade, my only limitation is that the handle makes my hand sore🤷‍♂️

[tacks Y]

Mud, You want to look and see what cam is on it. Also may want to check the head angle as it can be changed some. The grinder is about 3k+ now with a wait and was told the cam is extra now. I like mine.

I think my setter is the same also but do not see a name on it.

[ladylake]

 
 I don't think the Wright sharpener has a detent for different angles, get it where you want and tighten the swing knob real tight,  it's a hand knob and I use a pipe wrench to get it tight enough.  Steve

[Bruno of NH]

I set up a modified chainsaw grinder to sharpen my frost notch bands I use in the winter they are 3/4 tooth spacing. 
I know it's not getting the gullet.
If I get 2 more uses of the band that's fine with me.
With stuff costing so much this is a way to save a few bucks.
I'm not up town yet so any money saved helps me out.

 

 

[Stephen1]

I saw where you can buy CBN grinding wheels for those blades. I believe they sell them out of eastern Europe. I'll try to get the contact at the shop tomorrow

[TimW]

I am having a hard time online, finding the Viel website for the sharpener and setter.  Can someone please provide a link  to it?
                  hugs,  Brandi

[Ljohnsaw]

Vieltool.com 
Oops!
vieltools.com