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Started by Old guy, new pa, January 14, 2022, 10:09:28 AM

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Old guy, new pa

Hi guys, 
I'm new to sawmilling and this forum. Please excuse stupid guestions.
Down at our hunting farm we put up a 40x80 stud framed shed, 14 foot sidewalls, vaulted trusses.
We walled off 20 feet one end for living quarters.   We want to line the interior with boards we cut from the farm.  Species include  cottonwood, shagbark hickory,  hickory,  silver maple, elm, hackberry,osage orange, some kind of cherry, and other lesser kinds.
We want a hunting lodge feel for the space.
Looking for ideas
Thanks in advance 
Rick

Brad_bb

What state?  Are you vapor sealing and conditioning the space?  Or are you just creating and unsealed space?  My concern is always bugs, mice, and mildew.

Eastern cottonwood dries pretty hard, but is not rot resistant at all if it gets wet.
Cherry is nice but subject to powder post beetles when dry if not in a closed conditioned space.
Osage is bomb proof but is a bit hard to mill, definitely hard to plan.  A spiral head planer is needed with carbide bits.
I've sawn a few red elm(slippery elm), but I don't really know the properties.
I've not sawn any hackberry.
I've not been inclined to saw any silvermaple as it seems to be a more brittle wood and not rot resistant.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Old guy, new pa

Brad
Heated and cooled space 800 sq feet with partial loft.  Two bedrooms full bath andkitchen living area
Already spray foamed
In floor heat
Looking for unique walls and ceilings
Located south central Iowa
Thanks
Rick

Brad_bb

In that case since it's protected, you can use anything you want.  It comes down to choices (and whether you have enough of a given species.  I like circle sawn look, but it's too late for that with your wood unless you know someone with a fixture that can add that texture.  Another thing you could do is Nickel siding, either horizontal or vertical.  You can plane or skip plane the boards and you put a rabbet on one edge of the board and one on the other side but on the back side.  The affect you want is to end up with a groove between boards (depth of the rabbet) about the width of a nickel or whatever width you want.  I've got a bunch of 12" wide white pine that used to be the siding on my shop, but due to carpenterbees, I changed the siding to hardie board, but I'm going to repurpose the white pine into nickel boards for inside some rooms of my new house.  I will end up painting the boards.   I would not be painting cherry, osage, or elm though.  Too pretty of a wood.  So do you have a lot of Osage boards cut and stickered?  Not many people have cut a significant amount of Osage.  I have.  I use it mostly for timberframe braces, but I do have a bunch of side wood from it too.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

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