The Lombardini is Down!

[Satamax]

I haven't even pulled it apart yet. On the one hand I wanted to, just so I know I have all of the right parts. On the other hand, I don't have much for facilities (as in, I'll be doing engine repair with the head backed into a shed). So I'm hoping to be able to open it up, install a new head gasket and timing belt, slap on a valve cover gasket and away we go. Things are seldom that simple but I can hope can't I?😁 The one thing I'll have to do some figuring on- installing and tensioning the timing belt requires a special tool. It's a funny little socket with a long slot and a hook on the end. I think WM had $380 listed as the price for it. I hope my junk yard fab skills can come up with something that works, because I just couldn't spring for that😬

Lee, here's a workshop manual-

LOMBARDINI LDW 502 WORKSHOP MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib

May be you can do away with no tool. 
By cutting the belt in half. 
Timing belt change Split belt method - YouTube

[barbender]

Update- I'm still waiting for parts, which I ordered from WM. The timing belt came right away, but that didn't do me much good without the head gasket. Hopefully Monday. I've already passed about $3000 worth of sawing onto a friend sawyer, just to keep that account serviced. I've located a new Kubota a couple of hours away, for a good price. My only hesitation is it is the v1505 non-turbo version, which are 29-35 hp depending on who is telling the story, vs the 40 hp claimed on the Lombardini. I remember Magic was a bit disappointed with the larger non-turbo engine he had to do a replacement with. I've also found some Thermo King take out engines, one Yanmar and one Isuzu. Pretty cheap too. But they are around 400 pound engine and that is a lot more than the Lombardini, which is around 225 pounds. Decisions, decisions. 

[Bruno of NH]

Can you add a turbo to the kubota?

[barbender]

From what I understand, the internals are different between the turbo and naturally aspirated versions, to where it wouldn't be a simple bolt on a turbo and manifold and go.

[ladylake]

 
 A NA engine will have around 22 to compression ratio and a turbo engine will run around 16 to 1  as the turbo pumps more air in raising the compression.  You can put a turbo on NA engines if done right, a lot of farm tractors  like that but they have to watch for over heating.  Steve

[jcbrotz]

I've got 5k hours on my woodmizer with the 33hp non turbo kubota. I think you may see a difference but don't think you will be disappointed.

[Bruno of NH]

There is a Lombardi engine for $300 on FB Market place in NH 
Just letting folks know.

[barbender]

Well I talked to WM yesterday morning, they said my replacement Lombardini headgasket was nearly a month out, so I went and purchased the Kubota I had found on Craigslist. It's supposed to be a new un-ran engine, it looks new. It is painted white, which is apparently a marine thing- it was intended for backup power in a sail boat. So now onto the conversion process, I need to talk to WM and figure out all of the parts I need to bolt it up. As simple as the engine mounting on a WM sawmill is, there's still a fair sized parts list. Front and rear engine mount, drive pulley, coolant hoses, etc and other things I'm sure I'll run into as I'm mounting it.

[Magicman]

Since it was designed for marine application, where is the radiator?  I see a water tank?  What is the rated engine run speed?

You will have some flywheel/alternator/drive belt mods to do which you mentioned.

[ladylake]

 
 It looks like a project but well worth the effort to get a reliable engine on your mill.  If it's a lower speed engine you'll still have the torque or maybe it can be turned up on the pump..  If you stationary now would be the time for remote hydraulics and skip that high powered alternator and electric over hyd pumps.    Steve

[barbender]

Magic, I don't think this one was actually designed for a marine application. The owner told me it hadn't been "marinized" yet, he bought the sailboat from a guy who was in the middle of converting it to two of these engines but all he had done was bought them and stowed them on board. One was supposed to be new, the other rebuilt- it was a challenge to tell which was which, honestly. I "think" I got the new one, only going by the fact that the hoses had no paint on them and the ring gear shows no marks of engagement from the starter. But it has an aftermarket Wix oil filter, the other still had a Kubota filter. I don't know🤷‍♂️

 Anyways I don't think it is factory paint on them, and they are an industrial configuration. I will be attempting to use my existing radiator, but it may not work.

I will have to figure out an engine fan mount, which will require either buying or fabbing the brackets and such.

Everything I've seen for the non-turbo engine shows a rated engine speed of 3000 rpm, whereas the Lombardini was 3600 rpm. Woodmizer Kubota D42 manuals I have found online show both 3000 and 3200 rpm. I will be trying to find the correct drive pulley for the 3000 rpm application.

 If it is too short of power I will investigate ways to turn the pump up for max hp (within reason). I want to see a little black smoke😁. 

Steve, I look at my electric/hydraulic system kinda like that one relative that is a bit off putting, gets on your nerves but darn it he keeps showing up when you need him😁 Once I give a little more attention to some of the neglect the system has seen it has been pretty dang reliable. To mount a live hydraulic system would require big hose reel or something that I don't want to engineer right now. 

[ladylake]

 Dont be afraid to slow your blade speed down some, I did and it cuts better than the old 3600 rpm Kohler.  I think my Isuzu is running around 3000 rpm.  Seem like quite a few have added a remote hyd pump and they like them.  Steve

[Resonator]

One option would be going with an electric cooling fan instead of belt driven. There are kits available for many engine applications, might be easier to retrofit then belt driven. Also though it uses electric load, they claim it gains engine HP lost through a belt driven fan.

[Walnut Beast]

Nice score! Very cool! Looking forward to seeing you get that bad boy on 💪

[Walnut Beast]

Get a double pusher flex lite adjustable thermostat unit and save power and have better cooling + they sound cool 😎  

[barbender]

It would be nice to not listen to the engine driven fan howling directly into my right ear all day!

[ladylake]

 I put a fan clutch and fan off a 1990 Ford ranger 4 cylinder which you can't hear unless it's really hot and it kicks in full speed which it rarely does.. Then it makes noise.   Steve

[stavebuyer]

As ladylake mentioned if you are stationary; then one of largest possible production improvements to a WM mill is a suitable AC hydraulic power unit. You can install one and keep your DC system in place to maintain portability.

If you take a stopwatch and time the log handling and turning you will find those functions consume more time than actual sawing. Double your log handling speed, eliminate the DC brushes, power strip arching etc.

I wouldn't trade an AC Hydro pack for ten turbos. In addition to speed and reliability you also have hydraulics available at all points as you are not limited by the contact strip. Also makes plumbing in a live deck and lumber chain easy-peasy.

You can't make money unless the saw head is moving.

[barbender]

Well, engine fans and some of that other stuff is all secondary until I can find a stub shaft to come off of the Kubota flywheel. Woodmizer said it would come from the Polish factory for them, and I think that meant they would still have to make it🤦‍♂️This is turning into a real circus. 

I incorrectly assumed a stub shaft would be a standard part, kind of like SAE flywheel sizes but actually it looks like every manufacturer makes (or sources) their own, whether it be sawmills, brush chippers, stump grinders or anything else that is belt driven. Let's just say doing a Google search for "Kubota V1505 flywheel stub shaft" and about a thousand variations of that turned up very little.

[ladylake]

 :(
 I had a local machinist make me a plate with a stub shaft, can't remember for sure but I think it cost less than $100.  If you do that take the flywheel off and take it to a machinist    ..    Steve

[ladylake]

 
 Any updates, how the engine transplant going.  Steve

[barbender]

Steve, I was on the phone this morning with WM looking at a couple of options, waiting for a call back. I also spoke to Hayes Manufacturing, located in Michigan. They make a lot of power transmission products from stub shafts on up. One product I was interested in was a bearing supported stub shaft they make. A little spendy, around $750 but I would've gladly purchased one but they are 2-3 months out. Actually, everyone is 2-3 months out it seems. 

[ladylake]

 
 I dont think Kubotas need a bearing supported shaft,  seems like crankshaft breaking  is more common after Cat  took over Perkins. I have over 12000 hours on my unsupported Isuzu  and I run the belt tight.   Those Cat Perk engines were breaking cranks in skid loaders with no side load.  Steve

[barbender]

No it should be fine side loaded, it was more the fact that if they had one in stock, I would've paid extra for it just to get up and running.

[Magicman]

Any update on your progress/situation?