572XP AutoTune

[NE Woodburner]

OP, I am surprised that you didn't use the 5 gallons of mix sooner if you were cutting every other week for almost a year. Maybe I missed something or misinterpreted something, but I have a 572XP Autotune and I burn up a gallon of mix pretty quickly - many times in one day...

Overall I like my 572 and hoped it might have a bit more zip than my old 372 (which I still have) but sometimes I think the 372 might have a slight edge. I am running a 24" bar on the 572 and a 20" on the 372, so maybe that is the difference.

[mudfarmer]

To answer your question about the warranty, standard is 2yrs and if you buy the fuel that bumps it to 5years - That dealer let you miss out on 3years of warranty by not selling you $30 worth of fuel that gets burned up first day anyway.

[will49766]

Ok, I stopped by the dealer and explained that I am 90% sure I am dealing with stale fuel and told him I would like to try to fix this issue myself.  He was in the middle of a major snowmobile track system repair so he gladly said go for it.  I didn't want to be rude and left it at that.   I now have my saw back.  Time to fix this mistake myself.   

I may have over exaggerated my usage a little.  I haven't gone through a full 5 gallon can yet.  All I use the saw for is firewood to heat the house.  If it still feels like I have issues after my attempt to clean the carb then I will need to find a better local dealer to help me.  I am in the Grand Rapids, Michigan area.

Big Eddy, when you say remove the carb and flip it over and remove the horns.  What are you referring to when you say horns?  I have cleaned carbs on other saws.  My last saw was a Johnsered 2050 which had more room to work with.  This carb is more compact it seems.  I picked up a bottle of carb cleaner as well.  And Spike, what do I need to do to pull the AT module?  This is all new to me.

I want to thank everyone here for all the comments and all the help!!!  This is a great learning experience for me.

[will49766]

I understand what the horns are now.  A couple YouTube videos cleared that up for me.   :embarassed:

[Spike60]

Will, just 3 small phillips screws hold the AT module to the carb body. Be careful pulling the gasket.

And let's not get ahead of ourselves here. First thing to do is try the saw with some fresh fuel before pulling the carb. Prime it about 15 times and see what it'll do. 

If you get it closer, do a field reset cut and see if it fully wakes up. As someone already mentioned, the settings might be out of wack from trying to run on bad fuel. One continuous cut along the length if the log. Stick the nose of the bar in 4 to 5 inches and walk down the log. 

[will49766]

I was just thinking maybe it would be a good idea to just run some new fuel for a while to see what that does.  I will mix some fresh fuel tomorrow and give that a try.  Thanks for the help.

[Old Greenhorn]

It can't hurt, but it probably is too late to fix the buildup. You might need to cut a lot of wood before you see improvement, if any. Certainly, get rid of that old gas, run it thought the mower or some other machine to use it up. It will smoke some, but it will run.

[Big_eddy]

It won't hurt to full the fuel filter out of the tank and give it a once over. I've been known to submerge it in some fresh mix and  blow some air through it backwards..

[Spike60]

There's more than one fuel filter for these saws as well. The OEM filters are color coded. Orange top is the standard filter. All of the AT saws now use a blue top filter that has a finer mesh. There is also a magnetic fuel line to trap any metallic particles that fine their way into the tank. 

Depending on how fresh the stock was when you  bought that saw last year, you may have these updates. The blue filter is a good idea if you don't already have it. I wouldn't worry either way about the magnetic fuel line.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Had my 562xp to a knowledgeable fellows place to get the chain brake reset as I tripped it inadvertently and couldn't figure out how to release it.
He got it done in a jiffy.
also told me that just let the saw idle for maybe a minute and it will auto tune.
Spike60 is this correct?

[Spike60]

The lo speed samples every 3 minutes, so it'll take a little longer than that knowledgeable fellow suggested. 

Hi speed is a 30 to 45 second deal.

[Woodfarmer]

I mix sea foam into everything now from chainsaws, atv's and outboard motors.

[will49766]

Ok, here's what I've done so far.  I went and got some fresh rec fuel from the station.  Mixed some newly purchased oil, Husky brand, mixed to 50:1.  Completely emptied the saw tank and pulled the filter and blew it out.  The filter is stock orange.  Reinstalled the filter and filled the tank with fresh mixed fuel and using the primer bulb gave it probably 20 or more primes.  Although I am having difficulty with the primer bulb filling back up now.  This might be a symptom of the problem, as was suggested.  I was able to start it and idle it for 30 minutes or so.  Every time I would try to add any throttle it would die.  It stalled several times.  While idling, the primer bulb filled but it still is not refilling correctly.  It's slow to pop back.  I am assuming I will need to clean the carb at this point.  I was able to let it idle for several minutes in between throttling up.  It eventually allowed a faster idle but as soon as I throttle it, it dies.

[Spike60]

Yes, you'll need to pull it and do a complete cleaning. Take your time. Clean surface. Don't mix up the screws. You should be fine.

[will49766]

I will save that for this weekend.  Thanks so much for your input.  I will let you know how it goes.  

[Big_eddy]

A few tips
Before you disassemble, Take a picture of how the on off switch engages the carb lever. It's straight forward, but important. Also note how the rubber gasket around the switch fits the saw body. It's going to try to go back in different.
When you reinstall the carb, make sure the locking lever is properly engaged with the tab on the bottom of the right hand horn. 
Small needle nose pliers are useful for removing and installing the fuel lines. 
The white AT connector needs to be out of its holder before you disconnect it. When you reinstall it, each wire has its own slot.

Hope those help. You'll do fine.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Spike60, so the saw should keep itself tuned properly just in normal sawing?

[will49766]

Big Eddy thanks for the tips. Is there anything I need to do to get the lock lever unlocked on disassembly?  Does the carb just pull away from the intake manifold?   What holds it in place?  What is the procedure to remove the carb, it is self explanatory?

[DHansen]

A question on the orange fuel filter vs the blue fuel filter.  Is it recommended to upgrade the saw to this new filter ASAP or should we wait till fuel filter replacement is due?  Seems like it would be a good idea to upgrade early since it is a better filter. 

[Spike60]

Pete, yes she's tuning all the time.

Dave, no big hurry for immediate filter change. I didn't do any of mine. Has as much to do with good fuel handling habits as anything. I've been doing OK with the regular filter for a while now. 

[KEC]

Spike 60, Amen to fuel handling habits. When I drove trucks another driver alluded that you need not be concerned about dirt getting into the fuel tank while refueling; the filter will get it. I just recently saw a guy using a chainsaw with the air filter off, sucking air and dust directly into the carb. He had a gas can with a missing cap. I peeked into the can and saw debris/dirt in the bottom. When I said something about it he dumped it out onto the ground. And he was a guy who cuts and sells firewood who should know better.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Thanks

[Big_eddy]

Big Eddy thanks for the tips. Is there anything I need to do to get the lock lever unlocked on disassembly?  Does the carb just pull away from the intake manifold?   What holds it in place?  What is the procedure to remove the carb, it is self explanatory?

My tips above and below are for the 562 XP cause I just went through 2 of them and they are fresh in my mind. I think the 572 is the same or close.  This is how I do it but others may follow a different sequence. 
The also may be a sequence in the service manual. I don't  know
There are two long bolts hold the air box and carb on. Once out, there are two rubber straps, one on each side, that hold the airbox in place. Pop those off the studs. Disconnect the Z shaped fuel hose from the top of the carb and remove the air box. As it comes out, disconnect  the tank return fuel line at the purge bulb.
Disconnect the two electrical contracts for the on off switch. You can pry with a small screwdriver or use needle nose pliers. One wire is longer than the other so make a mental note. Set aside.
Now the carb is held on by the throttle cable, fuel line and the locking tab plus the AT wires on the other side 
Disconnect the throttle cable
Push down on the locking lever and rotate the carb clockwise slightly. Remove the fuel line. Now pull the carb back and then up and out, being careful of the AT wires.  Pop the AT connector out of its holder and disconnect. 
Done. 

[will49766]

Success!!! 

  Thanks again for everyone's input on this.  You guys nailed it.  Bad fuel caused the carb to gum up.

Here are before and after pictures of the internal filter.  It was a mess.













I still need to do a reset cut, but it's now running great!

Thanks for the step by step directions as well Big Eddy. 

[will49766]

Here are a couple pictures of the horn locking tab as well.  

I placed an arrow on it's location.









This was a great learning experience for sure.