3D printing and woodworking ( Watcha printing ? )

[21incher]

Larry that definitely would be a good way to make them and with high temp chambers available on higher end printers you can even print materials like carbon fiber.  Actually a few months back I had a company wanting to send me new a printer for ceramic slurry. I didn't  have power for the firing kiln so I turned it down. Apparently they are used alot for instant custom cremation urns. Just amazing how fast the Chinese are making this technology available at hobbyist prices.
If you have the files it's easy to find a print farm that can mass produce things to your specs.

[21incher]

Played with tpu today and it really prints nice. The plug on my wife's 30 year old salt shaker broke so I printed new ones. Started by printing a tpu gummy bear and it came out perfect with the stock slicer settings.  Printed a couple plugs and needed  a soft bumper for a project that also came out nice.


 

 

 
Not sure if it's  food grade filament. I understand most is but I figure the salt is worse for me then the filament in the end.

[21incher]

My youngest grandson has about every Nerf gun ever made. Made him a Nerf target range for practice.  3d printed swinging targets on a walnut base with laser cut bonus holes. Hopefully he likes it better  then the cash in the box also. Having  fun with the 3d printer.


 

 

 

 
Just waiting for Amazon to deliver the screws to finish it and then I am officially done with all my Christmas presents. 8).

[Crusarius]

Need to 3dprint a dart return next

[21incher]

Need to 3dprint a dart return next

He's lazy enough, needs the exercise 

[Crusarius]

I need a dart return

[21incher]

I need a dart return

That's an easy problem to solve. Get a Jack Russell. They are easily trained to jump up, pull the darts, and then drop them at your feet for another round  :D

[Crusarius]

my cats seem to just play with them till they are full of holes

[firefighter ontheside]

I came home from work this morning and saw a green hand on the printer.  Liam printed this soap dish for someone who made soap for him.  Not as big as my hand, but still pretty big.


 

[Old Greenhorn]

Neat idea! Can he make a couple for me? I can always use another pair of hands in the shop and at the mill! :D ;D 8)

[21incher]

I just printed my first lithophane. Just amazed me how laying on the counter it looks like nothing but backlight or sunshine brings out the picture.  Now my wife wants a lampshade of the grandkids and great  granddaughter. Better  order  more filament. 


 

 

[firefighter ontheside]

That's really neat.  I'm gonna have Liam look into that.

[21incher]

That's really neat.  I'm gonna have Liam look into that.

This is the site I used for the conversion https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/
Play with the settings until you are happy, then it creates a STL to download . Keep the thickness  below 3mm and thin parts about 0.8 mm if you're using .4mm nozzles.  I printed at 0.1mm layer thickness with 100% fill and even with my faster printer that little  panel took over 3 hours using white PLA. Really amazed me how beautiful they come out. That is my oldest  grandson in a Santa suit playing guitar for the younger child in his school Christmas party. I figure an 8 x 10 will probably take me 30 hours to print.

[SwingOak]

Has anyone had luck printing nuts in for threads? I am thinking print the hexes in then stopping the print to insert nuts and restarting the print so they are totally encased. Small threads just don't seem to hold for me in PLA.

I have printed 1/4-20 up to 3/8-16 and M6 threads in PLA that have proven to be remarkably strong. You might want to try that. I've found that I need to increase the hole size a bit from the standard 75% thread to around 60% for the best results. It would probably be stronger to print threads, depending on which way the layers on your print are oriented.
Otherwise, thread inserts would be the way to go, just like in most any plastic part. That said, I'm sure you could design the hex so there was an undersize lip and then press a nut into the hex pocket to create a captured nut. 

OK so I just discovered a setting in Cura that forces the model to stay within the outer faces/edges of the model - if you look under the "Experimental" setting, the first parameter is "Slicing Tolerance". By default, this is set to Middle. If you change this setting to Exclusive, it will force the lines to stay within the boundary of the model.

This means that if you create a .201 diameter hole (#7 drill) with 1/4-20 UNC threads, when you print it will produce a very close to true 75% thread that does not require tapping or an oversize hole and a screw can be threaded in without any difficulty.

I created a hole tolerance test model, with threaded holes at the standard tap drill size, and three additional holes that increase in diameter by .002" for each hole. Using the Exclusive slicing tolerance, the first or at worst second hole works exactly like a tapped thread with no need for any post processing with a tap.

Thought I'd share this, it's not a setting that I've seen mentioned much but it help keep parts closest to the true size of the model.

[21incher]

I just found on my K1 that I can hit the pause button and the extruder moves to the change filament position so the nuts can be dropped in and then hit run and off it goes again encapsulating the nuts. Just have to make the pocket 2 layers higher  then the nuts so there is time for me to catch it.

[Crusarius]

you can also manually program a stop in the program for nut insertion. I use prusa slicer and it is very easy to do it in that.

[21incher]

I use the Creality slicer and not sure if it has that. Trying to get the Orcaslicer working but having issues connecting  wireless. I think it has a setting like that for color change.

[SwingOak]

You can program a pause either by editing the G-code manually, or by inserting a script to run at whatever layer count. It's pretty easy to do, each flavor of G-Code uses a different code, so you'd have to look it up for your particular version.

For example, in Cura you can preview the model to find the layer number where you want to pause, then go to Extensions>Post Processing>Modify G-code>Add a Script and select the "Pause at layer Height" and enter your layer number.

You can do it by Z height also, but layer count is cleaner.

[21incher]

Started making some brackets  to hang up all the packout inserts I removed from the boxes I printed  tool inserts for.


 

 
Ran out of filament again and loving how Amazon has next day delivery so I can finish up the rest.
Last order I tried some filament made by a company named SUNLU and it is the worst filament I have ever used.  Bought  3 rolls because it had good reviews and was cheap. Can't  get a good print from any of them so I wound up wasting time and money in the end by trying to save a little.

[21incher]

Needed an exhaust adapter for one of the lasers to open up the flow from a 3 inch to 4 inch hose. A couple hours  later it's done. Had to use 8 year old filament that has been open that time because Amazon has delayed deliveries due to the thruway closing west of us that left imperfections but I am happy.  Slips right on the laser fitting and really opened up the flow. These 3d printers are very handy. Surprised not many others use them.


 

 

 

 
I think it came out good for using bad filament.  That Alibre makes designing things a 5 minute job now.

[21incher]

Printed a dust shroud for my new hinge jig. Quick video about making it
Designing And 3D Printing A Vacuum Attachment For The GOINGMAKE Concealed Hinge Jig - YouTube

[Larry]

I cut a lot of mortise's using a plunge router.  Normally I use my Festool just because the dust collection is great.  I would rather use a Elu or the later Dewalt 625 because they are a better machine but have no dust collection.  I bought a universal dust hood from Oneidia which was supposed to fit the Dewalt but did not.  I could spend half a day or more fabricating something.  But if only I had your machine and the smarts to operate it......  I think there might be some niche markets out there that could be profitable

Great job on the dust hood 21.

[21incher]

Thanks Larry. I may have to step up to a heated chamber printer for stronger  filaments to prnt things that can go bang if a chunk gets thrown up into the shield. I just bought the Alibre Atom cad package and am trying to learn how to use it with simple things like this. I am on the search for an affordable 3d scanner that works to make dust hoods like that an easy job to design and print.  Problem is affordable  and accurate scanners  are not available yet but will be soon. It's amazing how easy prints are to make with the current software.  You definitely have the smarts if you have sufficient time available to learn the software. 
Finally coming out of the stone age and trying the concealed hinges.

[21incher]

Think I figured out youtube links. Wow it is so easy now.�
My recent 3d printed project for resawing.
I have to figure out photo size

[Old Greenhorn]

Care to share how you did the link and also got the photo in your post?