Brush saw blades

[BillyTheKid]

In a personal message swampdonkey suggested i use a chisel blade on my brush saw. Is this a picture of a chisel blade?

[BillyTheKid]

[beenthere]

No, not Stihl chisel tooth. More like this:




Or:
Forester chisel tooth

[woodroe]

Pretty good run down on brush blades here:
Worth the watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QLhO-ELvfk

I've got both chisel tooth and carbide .
My go to is the carbide.

[SwampDonkey]

Billy has the right blade it is a chisel tooth 'Maxi' blade we use, Stihl or otherwise. Can run at higher RPMS. It's the standard blade installed on new pro clearing saws in the local shops. Out in the woods I wouldn't want to try and sharpen carbide. Lots of rocks around here, some times 125 year old fencing to. Shihl USA doesn't show them, but Stihl sells them here, they come from Europe and Japan. I've probably got a couple as pictured in Stihl cartons.

[beenthere]

Oregon calls it Maxi blade, and looks like the same as the OP.
Oregon Maxi

Don't see a Stihl blade like that.
Stihl brush blades

Just to avoid some confusion, SD

[SwampDonkey]

Stihl USA don't have the 'maxi' chisel tooth, Stihl Canada does. They are now labelling them 'woodcut', that is a recent relabelling. The old carton was totally different. Everyone else sells the same blade under 'Maxi' chisel tooth. I've seen at least 4 brands up here with them. Usually made in Sweden, Stihl are Japanese or Swedish made.  I buy them all summer at the Stihl dealer.

[SwampDonkey]

The part number on Stihl.ca, no photo mysteriously.

https://www.stihl.ca/en/ap/circular-saw-blade-chisel-tooth-294

Part number and description on my bill from dealer.

[John Mc]

The maxi blades are definitely the way top go. I switched to them years ago at SwampDonkey's recommendation. Husqvarna and Oregon both sell them as well. I believe they are made in Sweden.

Note that there are other blades which look somewhat similar, but do not hold up as well.

This is the style you want:



This is the less effective one. Notice the slightly different tooth/gullet shape (the steel seems cheaper as well.)

[SwampDonkey]

And the 200 26 is 7.9" with 26 teeth.  225 24 is 8.9" with 24 teeth. The newer Stihl 561's are designed for 10" blades, but I use the 9" because 10" is gong to need more torque in hardwoods and bigger fir. I had to use the grinder on the blade guard and shave a smidgen off the edge because the 9" blade just ticks the guard in on tiny spot. Problem solved.

[John Mc]

If I remember correctly, aren't there two different available mounting hole sizes as well?

[lxskllr]

20mm and 25mm if I remember right. All the blades I've bought come with a spacer to fit both.

Might be off topic, cause I don't where this thread came from, but I use shredder blades more than anything. Absolutely destroys brush, and will munch down saplings, but not good for cutting numerous clean fat stems.

[SwampDonkey]

Yes, with Stihl the smaller saws have the bigger centre hole 1". The pro saw has 3/4". But Husqvarna uses 1" centre holes on all theirs. I think the old heavier saw, the Husq 265 was 3/4" centre I think. But that's an antique now.

I've never yet seen any more than a blade in all the cartons of blades I've bought over the years. 

[John Mc]

I've never yet seen any more than a blade in all the cartons of blades I've bought over the years. 

Same here. I have never run across an adapter in the box.

[SwampDonkey]

The angle drive gear box and so forth is a different size between the 460's and 560's. It's not a matter of replacing the thrust plate on which the blade hole rests over because they are different sizes between saws. What I have heard people do is use a washer that seats over a 3/4" thrust plate divot to make it fit in a 1" blade hole. If you have a 1" divot on your thrust plate, like the Stihl FS240's [edited] have, that won't be fitting into a 3/4" blade hole. One of those thrust plates, if you could buy one with a different size hole that fits the saw, is most likely $100 plus. I mean they'll charge $10 for a 98 cent bolt and it's nothing special you can't get at an industrial supply shop, same hardness and such marked on the head.

[lxskllr]

The "adapter" is just a washer. Usually taped to the blade. I never had to use it til I got the fs460. That uses the smaller arbor. My echo and Huskies used the larger hole.

edit:

[SwampDonkey]

Well that is an entirely different blade than we are using for thinning ground. I suspect the majority of smaller saws mostly use the bigger thrust plate and would never need that. Didn't recall the FS460 using a 3/4" arbour, had to look it up. Must be the next lower class. I know the shop here sells Stihl blades with 1" arbor also because I seen a stack of about 10 in the shop when I bought my new FS561 this week. I asked them if they were for the smaller saws, and they said yes.

[JD Guy]

Could anyone opine on why the smaller saw would have the larger arbor and not the other way around?

[SwampDonkey]

On Stihl, the larger 1" and also a 3/4" diameter are on a smaller blade,  8", I've since  looked them up. Only 3/4" on the 9" and 10". On Husky the larger hole is on both the Fx555 and 455 saws, both run 9" blades. They are both lighter saws than Stihls although similar power to Stihl's models. I don't know enough about them to hazard a guess as to hole size. I know guys running 9" blades on their 460's, Stihl says they are designed to, or the 8".

3 sizes of chisel tooth blades for Stihl clearing saws and brush saws with saw models.
https://www.stihl.ca/en/ap/circular-saw-blade-chisel-tooth-294

I use model 4000 713 4201

[livemusic]

The thread is of interest, I have a Husky 345FR and have used the Maxi 200-26, 8 inch blade. Anyone sharpen these and, if so, how?

I bought this saw in 2017 and I tried a few different blades, including carbide. I am surprised that nothing has come along that beats the Maxi, that was 7 years ago. But if that's the best for small hardwood saplings... maple, ironwood, oak, hickory... that is what I want!

The lower unit head, gear assembly, cracked and broke back then. I bought the parts, intend to use it again. Whatever size sapling is promoted that it can handle, I will back off that a bit, I don't want this to happen again! Although, it may have been something I hit, I don't know why it broke.

[lxskllr]

The thread is of interest, I have a Husky 345FR and have used the Maxi 200-26, 8 inch blade. Anyone sharpen these and, if so, how?

https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Genuine-596286101-Setting-Brushcutter/dp/B087YVNHYM/ref=sr_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.IfUBtdhUqhqk0r6EfKHK7RUcEx0D_I9wKufImYEunDca2U7dJqwGR9NcRlCv-_xhRBDAfp1821MTDCMf7azF7OrPJUJUl1G4G2H_gNVQNGvp7hwa1e4GoBY3K-wG2o8BiAJEMVYWEVXfJE0LxeJh0My4m6KlUGiWPOpd-iXgO4cOtpNhteUbPVlIytsZ8PMaBSYiEqDYG59yhFWAYkDGvt1Bmwlc-mb6j00GB7jB6BM.TGEZNaFGxYeXmO4Mj6w7DzyCFwWuksHboJgZZffTXR8&dib_tag=se&keywords=brushcutter+blade+sharpener+husqvarna&qid=1712159972&sr=8-5

[SwampDonkey]

The file guide posted will do the trick. Most saw makers sell this under their own brand name. It's the exact one Stihl says or Jonsered as well. Has the angle marked on the gauge. It has a tooth set on the end, but a better heavier one can be bought.

[beenthere]

[KEC]

I bought a new grinding wheel for my little bench grinder not long ago. It had a washer/spacer so it could be used on one of 2 size spindles. A guy might be able to rob, beg, borrow or steal one of these. I don't know if this would work on a clearing saw blade or not. Just a thought.

[livemusic]

The file guide posted will do the trick. Most saw makers sell this under their own brand name. It's the exact one Stihl says or Jonsered as well. Has the angle marked on the gauge. It has a tooth set on the end, but a better heavier one can be bought.

Say, I don't understand the underlined sentence. This "tooth set," does that have to do with bending the teeth to a desired angle?

I also came across an old thread and read this comment from a poster that gave similar confusion...

"Glad you have the good maxi blade.
One tip on those, keeping the set in the teeth is critical to have them cut good. It's not like a chainsaw where you touch the rakers up every few filings. 
The blades do sharpen up pretty easy. Do you have the file guide/set tool? If not I definitely recommend it. "

In the youtube video, I saw the operator bending the teeth after sharpening, is this what "tooth set" is?

@SwampDonkey how often do you file? Just when you notice it has dulled? How long will a blade last and how do you know it's spent? TIA!