Yellowhammer recommended Blade Guide Alignment Tool

[Hemlock121]

Hi.

I was taking y'all s advise and was watching Yellowhammer's videos about the best methods to mill hardwoods.  In one of his alignment videos, he was recommending using two "Blade Guide Alignment Tools" perhaps from Woodmizer to ensure your blade is parallel and not pitched up or down like an airplane wing to ensure the best setup for flat wood. 

Honestly, I had never heard of a Blade Guide Alignment tool.  Do most of you use one and if so, how often are they used?  Is the WoodMizer the preferred guide?  Looks easy to clip onto the blade to ensure its flat and parallel to both roller guides.   Do some of you make your own guides?  If so, would you mind posting your versions?

Learn something new every day...

Thanks!

[doc henderson]

If the mill is level, you can use little magnetic levels as well.

[YellowHammer]

Here's what I use.  Easily detects angle misalignment and twist in seconds.  

https://woodmizer.com/store/Product/Index?id=2423&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAA9mrfQyKlM-bEGBHfTt5Et1H8l_j3&gclid=CjwKCAjwnK60BhA9EiwAmpHZw5WJLdqiU7f0TL5kbgwY1-J6xpNYXwLg62IBimDbL38mTOreO4jmSRoCql4QAvD_BwE

[KenMac]

Cook's and perhaps other manufacturers provide similar tools.

[uler3161]

If I get bad cuts and it's not obvious why (dull blade, hit something with blade, ran guide wheel into log), this is the tool I go to. Even if the mill cuts good, it's still a good idea to check once in awhile with this tool.

[jpassardi]

I have the woodmizer one, works well, nothing special about it. You could easily make one or two. However you connect it to the blade, you want the weight to be mostly symmetrical (not heavier on one end causing it to twist the blade). If made light enough it will be a non-issue.
If you have only one, just be sure to use it to set each side separately so each guide is parallel.

[YellowHammer]

[barbender]

The BGAT! Before I remembered to add one to an order, so I wouldn't pay $20 on shipping for the $10 tool (or whatever it was at the time) I had a couple of pieces of 1/8x1" aluminum flat stock I used with a clamp. It worked fine, the BGAT is much easier.

[Peter Drouin]

My 40 supper must be different, If I did it that way it would be a mess.

[Magicman]

I use the BGAT and check/align my blade guides as per the operator's manual.  

Either remove the power feed V belt or disconnect one wire from the power feed motor and the head rolls easily.

[YellowHammer]

Remember, these are "heartbeat and blood pressure checks" and if a sawmill does not have these items correct, which can be checked in seconds if not minutes, then it will not cut straight.  Of course the LT40's and LT70 mills have different configurations, but the concepts are the same, especially the part about the idle side blade guide arm not being gorilla tight and the band having a twist in it or not being level to the bed using two BGAT's.   

The motivation for this video was from a lot of people who ask me why their mill doesn't cut straight.  Many have tried using the manuals but get lost in the details, some don't even have the manuals.  Even people on the Forum just this week have mentioned that this video has helped them through or indicated their alignment problems.  This is called the First Five for a reason, it is not all inclusive, but for the sawmills I have personally inspected or had people come into the shop or call asking for help, which is actually quite a few thanks to YouTube, (two this week) most of the time, these basic checks they can do easily themselves, will quickly indicate the problem.  I tell people I am not "Woodmizer North Alabama and they don't pay me" to troubleshoot their mills,  however, I DO want to help these folks, and these are quick checks they can do quickly and easily, pretty much on any mill, because the fundamentals are the same.  They can then go to the manual to fix them.   

[GAB]

Even people on the Forum just this week have mentioned that this video has helped them through or indicated their alignment problems.  

Okay Mr. Milton:
I plead Guilty.
What are you going to sentence me to.
GAB

[Dave Shepard]

You can attach a piece of aluminum stock to the band with a heavy rubber band. I would go slightly wider than 1/8", if I was going to make my own for stability. 

[YellowHammer]

Even people on the Forum just this week have mentioned that this video has helped them through or indicated their alignment problems. 

Okay Mr. Milton:
I plead Guilty.
What are you going to sentence me to.
GAB

A "like" and a "I am glad I could help!" especially for experienced sawyers and Forum members like yourself.  That means a lot to me.

[Andries]

Gandhi hit the 'like' button multiple times.

[DanielW]

All this assumes you can actually adjust your blade pitch. A lot of the less-expensive mills don't have this option. Make sure you actually have the ability to adjust pitch/incline before you buy one.

As JPassardi notes: When you use one, make uber-sure it's centered on the blade and not biased to one side, or the weight of it will be enough to impart some twist in the blade and give you an incorrect measure.

[booman]

Yellowhammer,  I like the idea of two alignment tools to check for level.  Did you mention that they also need to be parallel to the bed?

[doc henderson]

also make sure to avoid a set tooth that would push the tool upward and skew the accuracy.  

[GAB]

When using the BGAT(s) make sure your blade is tensioned to your operating tightness, otherwise you are most likely wasting your time.
At the logging show in Essex Jct. in May I noticed that the recommended band tightening pressure sticker for the new LT40's is now higher than what the sticker on my mill says.  Mine is a 2005 model.
GAB

[Old Greenhorn]

Just about all the WM techs are saying 3500#, We've been running it that way for several years now. Works well. Banjo "G" string tight. (the high G, not the low G.)

[doc henderson]

my TK has a small hydraulic cylinder in the screw tensioner.  to a gage.  It recommends 1300 to 1500 #s.  prob. the difference in design.  Middle C!

[Larry]

Those gauge numbers don't mean a whole lot and some are pretty inaccurate. It takes 24,000 +- psi stress to properly tension most bands. The only accurate way to measure that is with a stress gauge. WM, Lennox and a few others sell them. Just remember its going to taking a lot more pressure to tension a .055 1-1/2" 4 degree than a .045 1-1/4 turbo.

YellowHammer did a excellent job making the video. It's great to have a good reference to refer to when needed.

[Magicman]

Mine settles in nicely @2800-3000. 

[YellowHammer]

Larry, thank you.

Yellowhammer,  I like the idea of two alignment tools to check for level.  Did you mention that they also need to be parallel to the bed?

Yes, certainly, I mention that in the video.

[RAYAR]

Honestly, I had never heard of a Blade Guide Alignment tool ..... Do some of you make your own guides?  If so, would you mind posting your versions?

Learn something new every day...

Thanks!

I made my own when I first bought my mill. Mine is made of stainless steel since I had access to it at the time, now retired. It looks the same as the Cooks version: https://cookssaw.com/blade-alignment-tool/