Husqvarna 154SG bar length

[DHansen]

I was cutting ash with my 154SG and had not thought about the 20" 3/8 .050" 72DL bar and chain that i have had on it for a couple of years.  But I have the same bar and chain on a 572XP that I was using to cut larger diameter stuff off the same ash tree.  I know there a engine size difference here and I am not comparing the two saws, but what it did was bring to my attention that it is too much bar for the 154SG.  I am thinking about dropping to an 18" bar or drop down one tooth size on the drive sprocket.  I do like the added reach of the 20" bar.  I also noticed the high idle position for a warm restart does not hold, it falls off the high idle position unless the choke is set.  Will have to take things apart and investigate.  There is a big difference in WOT RPM between the two saws, but the 154SG has more torque and throttle response.  The 572XP likes WOT for any cutting.

[DHansen]

[Spike60]

16's or 18's on my 54's. All .325. I always go for weight and balance on the smaller saws as opposed to reach. Like you, several bigger saws with longer bars are at ghe ready. At least with standard bars. 20" lightweights like an Oregon speed cut set up give you the next size up, without the weight penalty. 

Main thing though is to enjoy those heated grip saws while winter is here. Ran my 560xpg today. Heard another saw off in the distance. Might of been you. 

[DHansen]

Thanks Bob.  I cut with it again today.  I don't like way it is cutting with this 20" bar on it so I will switch to a shorter bar.  I may even have a .325 That I can put on.  

[ehp]

You may laugh but I had a guy show up to work cutting in the bush up north where I use to live with a 154 running 18 inch .325 setup , Told him lets see what you got to show me . He did quite well and saw ran good . Trees are not as big up there but lots are 20 inch diameter hardwood or so . Only thing he alwats carried spare engine mounts cause about once a week he would pull the saw in half , he could put her back together in minutes 

[DHansen]

Today I switched this 154SG to a .325 drive sprocket, 7 pin.  I also have an 8 pin but will try the 7 pin first.  .325" pitch .058" gauge 18" bar.  I went this route based on I had everything and did not need to buy anything to switch this saw from 3/8" to .325".  We will see how this works.

[DHansen]

[Spike60]

It'll have no problem running the 8 pin. Keep the reports coming in!

[DHansen]

Three tanks of fuel on each sprocket.  New chain with each sprocket, just to keep it as fair as I could.  I like the 7 pin better. although I have an 8 pin on a 61 and that thing will just slice and dice.  The 154SG cuts better with the 18" bar and .325" pitch.  I think the reason I had the chains is my 550XP is the same chain.  And I picked up two of the bars when a local hardware store dropped Husqvarna and went all in on the Stihl products.  I picked up several bars at $10.00 each.  And lots of files.  I need a deal like that again.

[DHansen]

[DHansen]

I still need to take the handle apart and determine why the high idle does not stay engaged when the choke is off.  Choke on the high idle stays on the high idle cam.

[donbj]

Nice little saws. I run .325 on mine as well. 18" bar.

[DHansen]

So as I was digging through acceptable bars and chains to run on the 154SE and 154SG I have a 16" Hard nose super bar in .050".  Also, the same bar with a replaceable sprocket tip.  What are the pros to a hard nose bar?  What are they best suited for?

[DHansen]

Well I figured out the warm restart high idle speed position problem.  It was me causing the problem for lack of understanding this saws high idle position system.  I thought the operator presence lever (throttle lock) on the handle was what held the fast idle.  But this system is activated be the choke being moved to the full choke position, then if needed push the choke off and the high idle will stay in position until the throttle is pulled, then it falls of the high idle cam.  I do have a 266 where the high idle is put on by the throttle lock lever.   I just assumed the 154SG was the same, and it is not.  When all else fails, read the owners manual. 

From what I can gather the hard nose bar is best suited for work where the wood may be dirty.  But not much of any other advantage.  Seems harder to find a hard nose bar verses a sprocket tip bar.

[DHansen]

Added a heat reflective insulation tape to the top cover.  Want to try an keep the top cover as nice as possible. 

[DHansen]

[DHansen]

[DHansen]

I was comparing two saws I have.  154SE and 154SG.  The 154SG muffler opens up in two parts exposing the inside and the baffle area.  The 154SG also has an aluminum heat shield between the muffler and the cylinder head.  Am I missing parts and should I try and find another heat shield for the 154SE?  Is cleaning up the rust and painting the muffler a good or bad idea?  Obviously heat-resistant paint.  The bolt for the exhaust bracket goes into the chain bar oil tank.  Should I put Teflon on the threads for this bolt?

ADDED:  When I look at my printed parts fold-out dated 1983, I do not see that heat shield and the muffler is not shown as two parts. 

[DHansen]

What seals to two halves of the muffler?

ADDED:  Looks like just friction and a tight fit of the two overlapping halves.  When assembled and running I see no signs of exhaust leaking between the seams of the two muffler halves.

[donbj]

 "The bolt for the exhaust bracket goes into the chain bar oil tank.  Should I put Teflon on the threads for this bolt?"

A lot of huskies with this bracket type have the holes go right into the oil tank. There's no need from my experience for  teflon tape or any other sealer. It won't leak. The fun part is when working on a saw with the muffler removed and you tip it on end to work on something and you notice a pool of oil forming on the bench. Hmmm, where's that coming from

[DHansen]

2800 rpm at idle.  No chain creep. 10,400 rpm wot no load.  Seems like it's a little rich at wot.  As I lean it out it would climb to 11,000 rpm.  Spec says 9,000 rpm. So I richened up the high speed screw to drop rpm to 10,400.   It sure acts rich though.  No lag in throttle response.

[donbj]

How hard is it to get the muffler apart? Can see some baffles and such in my 84 model sg. Tried but might muck it up getting it apart. Seems pretty tightly held together

[DHansen]

Don,  It was harder to squeeze them back together than take them apart.  I was surprised when it came off in two.  The two hollow round rods that are laying inside the muffler in the photo are what the two bolts go through and prevent you from bending the muffler when the bolts are tightened to the cylinder head.  I did 18' lbs. on a hot engine for a retorque of the muffler bolts. My muffler is clearly just a press fit.  I have other 154SE mufflers I can look at tonight.  I have about 6 of them. I am also looking to see how may of those heat shields I have.  I like the shield. 

[donbj]

Thanks! I tried pretty hard to get mine separated but it looks like it is together pretty tight. Cant see any type of spot weld or any sign of weld at all. Just don't want to bang it up.

[donbj]

Tried again tonight but I think this one is bonded or pressed somehow. Can't even force the lip away or drive a sharp screw driver between. I was thinking of gutting the inside of it and opening the outlet some as the exit hole is pretty tiny. Think I'll think on it now