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Fuzzy Wuzzie

Started by Gunny, January 07, 2006, 07:57:39 AM

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Gunny

I'm sure one of you know the answer to this question:

Why is it (or might it be--since I have a few dozen thoughts about it myself already) that Aspen sometimes "fuzzes" when planed?  I'll surface, say, 100 lin feet of the stuff and it comes out smooth as a babe's behind and then there'll be a board where one tiny patch of fuzz comes along and it just won't plane out at all.

Since the lumber is extremely popular for moldings, cabinet framing, drawer sides, backs, and bottoms and most anything that'll take stain or paint, it's a real nice base product for our kiln sales.  But I have had some complaints about this "fuzzing" thing.  My reply is that I always try to send a little more than paid for to begin with so they can cut-out the fuzz-patch and still be ahead of the game.  That's what I do and I use a pretty good whack of the stuff in my own projects.

Your thoughts?

Texas Ranger

All in the grain,  a little crossgrain, and there's the fuzz, not to be confused with linty police officers.
The Ranger, home of Texas Forestry

beenthere

Gunny
It is likely 'tension wood', an abnormal wood that occurs in aspen.  Don't think it is much different from the same 'fuzzy' wood that is found in cottonwood.
Plug Tension Wood Aspen into a search engine and you will get a lot of hits, and find it is associated with wetwood too. Its probably more than you really want to know, but probably also fits a few dozen of your thoughts too.  :)

To cut it smoothly, it takes particular attention to the knives being real sharp and of the correct angle, but it can be done.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Max sawdust

I have run into problems with the fuzz too :D :D
Was thinking I may need to run the Aspen through a drum sander.  Think that will get rid of it ???
Max
True Timbers
Cedar Products-Log & Timber Frame Building-Milling-Positive Impact Forestscaping-Cut to Order Lumber

Texas Ranger

I have never run aspen, but a drum sander can lift the grain on several woods I have used.  Don't know if that'll do it, but worth a try.
The Ranger, home of Texas Forestry

Coon

We have found that when planing and moulding in the past that when you get an occurance of this put it off to the side becuase you'll notice that it is not dry enough and probably has some angle to the grain (Grain of board is definately not square to the board.)
  We currently air dry all of our white poplar and aspen 18-24 months before planing it.  Same goes for white birch.  Spruce we air dry usually about 3-4 months before we plane.  Once planed make sure the boards do not get wet or you will have major staining and possibly even mold.  We usually plane the wood and let sit for atleast 24 hours to accustom to the surroundings beofre we install it for flooring or use for furniture building.
Just my 2 cents in this 2 bit world.
Brad.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 w/Kohler,
Husqvarna, Stihl and, Jonsereds Saws

Max sawdust

Interesting Coon,
I will play around with that I have some white birch that has been air dryed about that long, will plane it and compare it to some of the stuff that has been in dried less.

Max
True Timbers
Cedar Products-Log & Timber Frame Building-Milling-Positive Impact Forestscaping-Cut to Order Lumber

mur

I process a lot of aspen - T&G v-joint.  I air dry for a long time - 150 days plus to get rid of the "wet wood effect" and then I dry to 6% in the kiln before molding.  I plane with the grain whenever possible and sharp knives are mandatory.  Feed speed is important.  6,000 RPM and better has given me a better finish than slower, older planers.  I usually get a glass finish but still, sometimes the tension wood still takes over and I still get some fuzz.  I set those aside and then run them through a double drum sander later.  Some folks want their aspen sanded as it gives the aspen a more even finish if they are putting on coloured stains - this helps to avoid "blotching".  Pre-basing before staining is mandatory.  Evens out the stain.  Aspen is an interesting wood to work with and can be a good wood to work with as most folks who saw and work with it get some part of the process wrong and they vow to never work with it again.  I charge more for my aspen boards than I do for my pine and Doug Fir.  I like the challenge of aspen and also western cottonwood. 
Don't dream it, be it.

SwampDonkey

Could you guys be running into 'False Tinder Conk'? Or is your wood chalk white and sound? The tell tale signs of the conk before you saw are toad stools that come out from rotten branch scars, the conks have a white belly facing the ground.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Coon

Swamp

   We only saw very clear clean aspen and white poplar logs.  We tend to get alot more firewood logs in general than we do saw logs as there is often a significant amount of punk rot.  Yes there is sometimes toad stools and broken branch scars on the logs.  I have found that when there is this the logs generally are only of the firewood grade and often have bugs in the logs.
Brad.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 w/Kohler,
Husqvarna, Stihl and, Jonsereds Saws

SwampDonkey

What's 'white poplar'? I know we have some trembling aspen with chalk white bark. Most of it is greenish-gray in my area though.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Coon

That is what we call 'white polar'  I am almost sure of it.  That color usually only exists once the tree becomes near it's maturity stages of life.  If you rub your finger on the bark do you get a witish-grey chalk like powder on your finger???  This what I am talking about does.
Brad.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 w/Kohler,
Husqvarna, Stihl and, Jonsereds Saws

SwampDonkey

Next growing season try doing the same on the bark of young trees. You'll also get a powder on your hands. I've always commented about this when doing post assessments of thinning. Then it gets all over your clothes.  ::)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

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