sanding plank flooring

[bman]

Wow, Ok, I got my rough sawn plank floor down, about 1900 sq ft. Came together pretty well and am now sanding. I have sanded t&g oak floors in the past-piece of cake, but this big burly rough stuff is giving me fits. Need advice.
Rented the typical silver line drum sander and can't seem to make much headway against the variation of plank thickness and irregularities. Tried some diagonal cuts and tore the paper twice, using 36 grit. The rental store said 36 was as coarse as they stock. If I can get something like a 20 grit is it a world of diff better or am I wasting my time chasing sand paper? Any first hand experience tips appreciated. For the record my planks are rough sawn 2" thick, 8-12 inches wide with some of the edge variation is as much as 1/8 th inch, along with some cupping.
Encouragement if nothing else guys :-\ Thanks bman

[beenthere]

I missed the species that you have down, and what the moisture content is at (or approximate)  ???

I think patience and a lot of sandpaper. Too late to turn back now. It would be nice if those drum sanders had skids where one could set a sanding depth and not have to control the depth by 'hand'.

I recall an experience where I volunteered to sand the floor in a rental duplex for the landlord before we moved in, because it was in such bad shape from the renters who just moved out. But the oak flooring had been laid parallel to the joists and it was not flat. I realized my mistake for volunteering after one pass with the drum sander, but by then it was too late to turn back.
Big big job sanding as the drop between joists was so much that 1/3 of the floor in the dips had to be sanded with the edging sander. A ton of sweat equity went into that living room and two bedrooms.

[metalspinner]

If the look you want is a "rough sawn plank floor", why not just knock down the splinters and leave the irregularity in place.  Maybe use a hand belt sander to bring the really bad edges closer together?

[bman]

Opps.. Its doug fir, MC about 12%. I found some 20grit sheets and went back at it this morning, am doing a little better now that I dont have to work by shop light. I guess it will just take some time, My first concern was getting the edges close so as not to create a tripping hazard. Changed my technique, going slower but with more pressure by lifting up on the handle slightly. Will let you know how it turns out. Thanks, bman

[Raphael]

A good sharp plane might get those high edges down for you quicker than sanding.

[bman]

Raphael that sounds like a good idea, but alas I must admit that I dont even own a plane :-[ IF one was to secure a plane for such a task what type would one be looking for? block,jack,long ,short? I am totaly ignorant when it comes to planes. Suggestions pleasssse, thnx bman

[metalspinner]

Makita Power Hand Planer!

It works on that high root in the yard, too. :D :D

[Raphael]

You can find everything you ever wanted to know about the Stanley line of planes at: http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Longer is better (within reason) for the floor... until you get to the wall. ;)
A used Stanley in jack through jointer lengths (5[605],6[606], or 7[607]) would be what I'd recomend if you were looking to pick up a user semi-cheap.  That said I like a jack plane for all around use, and a block plane for places the jack can't reach.

The jack is really a little large but fits my hand better than the typical smoother.  My baby is the ultimate 'Jack Rabbet' plane, a Lie Nielsen 10-¼ purchased through the Timber Framers Guild.  Some day I may invest in an old Stanley 4-½ (a wider smoother w/ a Jack sized tote) for general use so the LN isn't exposed to some of the nasty things I've done recently.

UH-OH look what I just found on LN's site:
  Lie-Nielsen Toolworks is proud to present, for the first and only time, this cast Manganese Bronze 4½ Smooth Plane. Shipped with Cocobolo knob and handle, 50° High Angle Frog only, Cap hand engraved 1981 - 2006, signed by Thomas Lie-Nielsen.

$400   

[JimBuis]

I would use a power planer on those joints. You can probably rent one at a good rental shop. Adjust it for a light pass until you get used to it. Although it is a handheld, it can take off a lot of wood in the blink of an eye. I've never used it on flooring, but have used it on large workbench tops.  One was 6 feet by 9 feet.  It does a great job especially with a set of new blades.

Good luck,
Jim

[KGNC]

Jim:
I spent a good deal of time sanding hardwood floors back in the old days. They do make a much coarser paper for the floor sanders but the rental places won't have it. For the really rough floors we has some paper that I think was a 0/3 grit. but I may have the numbers wrong. It looked like gravel glued on to the paper. It would really take out the high spots in a hurry. You would not want to use it on most T&G flooring as you can sand down to the nails in a hurry. 
The rental store should have a edger sander, this uses a round disk, they are made to sand close to the walls and in corners but they do pretty good about sanding off the edges of high boards.

[footer]

UM- Why would you not plane it down to a consistant thickness before you laid it down?  ???I would think that would have solved your problem before it started ;)

[4woody]

i sanded some in ga loft apt the tng was 3" thick i used a sq floor sander work good not a drum sander when finesed look good & flat 

[bman]

Thanks to all for you input, I bout got it whipped. Will finish the edges with the edger unit tomorrow.

PS- Footer, I can tell your the kind of Guy who can pick the winning horse every time...... once they have all crossed the tape ;). bman