Lets build a kitchen counter

[Larry]

Well, I guess this is woodworking stuff.

Usual procedure is to glue full sheets of laminate to the substrate and cut out the counter.  In this case the laminate of chose is on backorder and I'm tired of waiting.  So...here goes.







Laying out the counter shape.  Straight edge always goes on the good side...in case the router wanders it will go into the waste.





First section cut.  I really like a 3+ HP router for this phase as it will easily cut 3/4" in one pass.  The big honker was in another operation so I used my PC plunge...think it is maybe 2 HP.  It will also cut 3/4" if the bit is sharp and ya take it slow.  A suggestion on bits...I often buy economy bits (read cheap).  With counter tops you need the best quality money can buy, as MDF and laminate are highly abrasive and dull bits rapidly.  Whiteside and Freud are my bits of choice.





Counter tops are normally somewhere around an 1 - 1/2" thick.  I use low grade oak to get them to that thickness.  I put the oak down a little proud of the MDF and use a template bit to shave the hardwood.






Laminate arrives so I glue it down and cut to shape with the template bit again.  Most instructions say to lay something like dowel rods on the substrate and somehow work the laminate down.  Much easier to let the laminate tack on the edge of the substrate...put a serious bend into the laminate and roll it on to the substrate.  Masking tape is a necessity to prevent scratches from the router base on gloss laminate.  Not really required on flat rough laminate like I'm using...but I'm not taking any chances.  Mineral spirits is used to clean glue off the bit if it gets to gunky.

Back splashes and trim edges next...stay tuned.

DISCLAIMER; By no means am I a pro...learned this craft some 40 years ago.  Feel free to ask questions, make suggestions, or criticize.  Only way I know, how to learn. 

[WDH]

Larry,

Nice work.  Fine Woodworking did a review of router bits in the most recent issue.  The Best Overall Value was the bits from Whiteside.  I have never tried them, but I will now.

[blaze83]

Larry,

nice job  8)  I build em for a living and you did everything pretty much the same way I do.  only acouple of things I do different.

1)  after I lay out my shape, I rough cut it to within a 1/8 to a 1/4 in with a jig or skill saw.  this cuts down on the amount of material I have to remove with the router.

2) I usually build them with the bottom up to start with, I rout a rabbit around all the edges that will be contacting a wall, really helps with scribing the counter to fit, again less material to remove with the sander or jig saw when scribing.

3) The build up is the same way I do it, by starting withh the counter bottoms up so to speak, I glue and nail my build up to my lay out lines, then use them as the fence for the router using a flush trim bit with the bearing on the top.

4)  the shop I work in glues the counter edges on first, then glues the top.... not sure it makes much difference.... still have to file the sharp edges.


any way... Good job  8)



Blaze

sorry no pictures  >:(

[ScottAR]

Lucky, I always have to put it on installed counters...   :(

I do the edges first too...  cover them in tape when trimming the top
or the little bearing will rub off the color on the edge. 

Learned that one the hard way.  >:(

They stay on better since the water rides over the edge instead of
down the little crack.  That's my logic anyway. 

[Larry]

Good suggestions guys.  I also put laminate edges on first, because of the crack thing.  Brings me to another thought that I'm not sure of the answer.



The counter I'm making now has hardwood edges.  I have been glueing them on with epoxy because of it's ability to fill cracks and it also is waterproof.  The epoxy is messy to apply and I'm not sure if it is the best method.  Any suggestions?

Built back today splashes today.  Glue the edges on first.





Use a belt sander to remove the excess.  Nippers and a file touch up the excess length.





Belt sander in the attack position.  I like to take the excess off immediately after glue up.  The sander pulls the laminate tight to the MDF and I think heat from the belt helps.  Your done sanding whey ya pull the glue line...takes a little practice so try on a piece of scrap first.





Router to trim the excess laminate.  On back splashes and sometimes other places I'll put laminate on both sides of the wood to prevent warping.  Small jobs like this one I just use scrap.  Bigger jobs I'll use something called "warp control sheeting".  About half the price of the good stuff.





After the trimmer I take a file to clean up the cut edge...again your done whey ya pull the glue line.





Gonna finish my wood edges tomorrow...got a little tile work to complete before I can install the counter tops.

Stay tuned.