Framing Lumber

[brooksmill]

I've been cutting some dead pine and decided to cut it 1 1/2 X 3 1/2 for framing lumber for myself.  Looks smooth enough to me for this use.  What do you guys think?  Also is there a general purpose blade that will work on any type log?

[DanG]

Should work fine, but I'd cut it little on the heavy side to allow for shrinkage.  Also, this would allow you to dress one edge so you get consistent widths in your finished boards.  They won't all shrink the same amount.

Can't help ya on the blade question.  I'm a circle guy. ;)

[tcsmpsi]

That's how I cut mine for general framing.  Like DanG said, you might want to cut some of it a little wider/thicker to dress down if you are going to be matching 'store bought' in close fitting necessity (some doors/windows/etc.).

I like working with the 'rough cut' off the mill for framing, rather than planed lumber.

I have found shrinkage from dead pine (of course, depending somewhat on just how dead) to be relatively insignificant.

[DWM II]

The beetle kill I've been cutting shrinks very little , its dry as a bone when I cut it. I also have been sawing on the 6 qtr scale for all my barn lumber, true 6'' wide for all my rafters and joist.

[WDH]

You are probably OK in West VA, but in many places, all framing lumber has to have a grade stamp from licensed grader to pass code.  In those areas, if you cut your own, you have to hire and bring in a grader to grade stamp the lumber in order for a house to pass inspection.

[Fla._Deadheader]

  I've been thinking about this for a long time. With all the imported lumber and all the different stamps ON that lumber, why not invent a stamp, and use a foreign code, as in the Austrian and Russian lumber.

  Need to keep a very close reign on the grade, but, who could ever check on what mill produced your lumber ???  Just need to keep yer Tater Trap closed.