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Thinning a conifer planting done in 1994

Started by bigsnowdog, August 02, 2007, 07:00:12 PM

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bigsnowdog

I have a reforestation project that is no doubt pretty small by the standards of most here. I have a total of approximately 13 acres, with 9 acres having been planted in 1994 and another 4 acres planted in 1979.

Both are a mix of hardwoods and conifers. The conifers include white pine, scotch pine, white, black, and blue spruce [very few blue]. For an Iowa forest it has too many conifers, but at the time I planted I was too infatuated with conifers. The 9 acres are, overall, probably about 60-65% conifers. That larger field includes some rows that are alternating mixes within some rows, alternating pine – hardwood – pine – hardwood. The idea was that conifers force hardwoods up.

Row spacing has been typically 10-12 feet and sometimes a bit more between rows, 6-8 feet and sometimes a bit more within rows. Adding an issue, it seems that Scotch pines do not live very long; not as long as they were projected to live 25 years ago.

I need to thin lots of conifers and consider taking out all lf the Scotch. Ignoring a strategy for picking which trees, there are so many that need to be cut that I don't think I can do it neatly, meaning, cut them and pull them out for burning. I think I am going to have to just wade into it, cut them as low as I can, and leave them lay.

I did not plant this project for commercial value, even though I realize that at least hardwoods will have commercial value someday. In a manner of speaking it is my own little park, and a big interest has been wildlife. Each year has brought more wildlife. Now when I go out there, it seems that each time I see one deer, unless I see two or three.

I would like white pines to live as long as possible. So, questions then.... How much thinning do I need to do? How far apart should I leave them; 30 feet apart? More, less? Should I take out all of the Scotches? Essentially, I do not have mixed conifer rows. There will be an entire row of whites, then an entire row or two of scotches, then several rows  of whites. Mixed in these rows will be some rows alternating hardwoods and whites. Patches of blues are here and there, and I have a few rows of white or black hills spruces. I also have some multiple row groups of hardwoods.

What about the leave them lay strategy, cutting them to fall and decay. Can I do that? Is that bad?

In the first planting I have places where I did not thin, and the density was enormously to the disadvantage of all conifers. Many died, though, to be fair, many of those were scotches or reds.

How to thin, what spacing, can I leave them lay, my interest is in supporting wildlife and having a stand that will be here 100 years from now, assuming some idiot does not develop it....

Discuss.... And thank you.

Ron Scott

Do you have any local chip or biomasss markets for wood fuels, landscaping material, etc.?
~Ron

bigsnowdog

Not that I am aware of, and I believe that I would know.

Also, sorry for the delay in reply. Does this forum send notification email regarding activity in posts? Do I need to change some setting?

WDH

Go your profile and look at the left side.  You will see "Notifications and E-mail".  Go there to turn on e-mail notifications.

As to you situation.... Start in the conifer rows with the most desirable trees, i.e. the white pines.  Thin them so that each crown is free to grow on all sides.  I am not sure of the spacing since that depends on the size of the trees/crowns.  Just use common sense.  Leave the best so the they are free to grow on all sides to the extent possible.  It is OK to leave some side by side if there are no other good trees to choose from, but in general, space them evenly if you can.  On the Scots pine rows, I would say to hit them really hard and only leave trees that are healthy with good form.  Otherwise, take em all out.  That will be less competition for the hardwood on either side, and they will take advantage of the extra light and root space.  It will also allow light to reach the ground, and the herbaceous plants and grasses will move in, really giving your wildlife habitat a big boost. 

What would really help is if you could take some pics for us to get the tree size and density perspective.  Then, we might be able to offer you more specific recommendations on how aggressively to thin.  You cannot go far wrong if you do what looks good to you.  Most people, however, do not thin aggressively enough, so don't pitty-pat with it.  Give the crop trees some room to grow and breathe.

Personally, I would leave thinned out trees on site.  Leave them lay as you say.  There is some risk from insects, but I would do it if it was mine.  Also, realize that this will create a lot of fuel on the forest floor until some decay occurs, so protect the site from fire for a while. 

Remember the pics!
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

SwampDonkey

Also, if you lay the cut stems on the ground, try to fell them parallel to the rows. It doesn't effect the stand, but it might be easier to walk in afterward if you like walking up and down the planted rows. ;D I like to walk up and down the row corridors of my woods and I've been thinning some areas the last couple years. I've got 10-11 hectare spaced now and probably another 10 to do in 3 years.  ;D The cut stems rot fast and soon there will be no trace of them. ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Pilot

On the cut trees, cut them up so most of the limbs lie on the ground.  Or run over them with some machine that will smash them down.  That way they will decay a lot faster than if they stick up in the air and be less of a fire hazard. 

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