wood mizer Q's

[zopi]

two items I'm looking at simply ordering with my mill...the woodmizer educational seminar and the harvesting urban timber book..anyone have them? Are they worth it?

anyone know what the overall band legnth on an lt15 is?

I won't ask what the favored band is...i'm betting it's been beat to death...i'll do a search...

isn't it fun trying to get a doubled chain choker off a 3000 lb log...when both hooks are under the log...in the ground?

Yuk. :

[Don K]

Zopi, I think it is 13' 2"  ??? or 158" I use 10 degree WM.

Don

[zopi]

oh. duh.

I see that now.

We got approved for the financing...don't like the terms...gonna seek another avenue...getting there tho'

maybe I'll sell a bridge or something for the cost of an LT70... :D

[Dan_Shade]

Are you talking about the 6 DVD set from Woodmizer?  It's very good.  I can't comment on the book.

[zopi]

Thanks! I looked at the author's website...i'm thinking the book isn't gonna be a player..it talks about mill basics..got that..

and scrounging wood....uhhh...I'm on the Jamaican Olympic Dumpster Diving Team!

[jesse]

[/quote]

isn't it fun trying to get a doubled chain choker off a 3000 lb log...when both hooks are under the log...in the ground?

a logrite canthook or peavy would be usefull to roll log to get chain unhooked

[zopi]

Nah...i'm not even trying to roll this monster by hand..i'll get the scraper blade on the tractor
in a few days and roll it that way...besides, i've got LOTs of chain.

[ARKANSAWYER]

  There is a little Book that should come with your mill titled "From Woods to Woodshop" by Doc Gene.  Read it once but do not worry if you learn it.  Then go saw some logs and then come back and read it again.  Then you will see what it is talking about.
  You still need the cant hooks because after you flatten a side or two you still need to roll that log/cant and it is better by hand then with a machine.  A 60" one will be worth the coin and when you can afford it get an ARKY Special 78" MegaHook.  Once you own them for a spell you will wonder how you ever lived with out one.

[zopi]

  There is a little Book that should come with your mill titled "From Woods to Woodshop" by Doc Gene.  Read it once but do not worry if you learn it.  Then go saw some logs and then come back and read it again.  Then you will see what it is talking about.
  You still need the cant hooks because after you flatten a side or two you still need to roll that log/cant and it is better by hand then with a machine.  A 60" one will be worth the coin and when you can afford it get an ARKY Special 78" MegaHook.  Once you own them for a spell you will wonder how you ever lived with out one.

ah..I was wondering what all came with the mill..but figured I would wait and see...I ordered the mill with the "pro package"
comes with a cant hook...decent one i presume...log ramps and toe wedge thingy that looks like I will use once and invent myself a set of toe boards of some sort..dunno..it looks like a pain tho...I have one cant hook for my chainsaw milling..but it needs a re-forge  and grind on the hook end...that thing sucks swamp water. I will have to get my forge out of storage long enough to fix that soon...

I am noodling a design for a winch ala norwoods log turner...but I am considering using a set of sailboat winches if I can scare
a set up...saw a neat device in use the other day made out of one...piece of channel iron with loops for a truck strap, and the
winch (windlass really) mounted on top...the Idea was to strap it to a tree trunk for letting cut branches down and absorb
the shock of the fall..i immediately thought of about ten more uses for one...

anyway, i hit on the idea of using a pair of them on top of a square tube tee like a cat head. I am a career sailor so I am used to such devices and their foibles...  there is no cable required, just a stout piece of rope, so no splinters in the hands or corroded
cables to worry about and no need for metal hooks  to come zipping out at you...there is a danger of synthetic line snapback though, but I am used to it, I work around mooring lines alot...the idea behind the opposed winches is to be able to "steer" a log a little and joggle it on the mill if necessary...it will only be needed really on the big stuff. hmmm...just had a thought...that toe wedge might not be such a bad deal with one of these....hang a couple of falling blocks in the beams of the mill shed with tailers hung out of the way, drop a loop around the crown end of the log and lift it with the winch, drop the toe wedge in and let the log down...maybe I will put in big enough winches to be able to sling the mill up to load it on the trailer when I am working alone..
I am a little guy with a bad back...

Can anyone poke holes in that, or add to it? 

I guess I could use chainfalls...but they are sooooo  slow.

[Dave Shepard]

I do some 'smithing too, zopi. Whereabouts are you from?


Dave

[Don K]

I use the toe wedge thingy quite often. It is invaluable when sawing a tapered log to center the heart. I can have it in place in minutes with a minimum of trouble. I did not buy the pro package, too cheap to buy the logramps when a landscape timber works just as well, but they would be nice when rolling a big log as it has flip up stops to keep a log from rolling back on you. The taper wedge is nice though.

I had my choice of the old style throwaway cant hook, because that is what you will do with it once you use a logrite, or for a few more bucks the logrite 48". Nice on smaller logs but take my advice, buy a 60" minimum. It does make a difference.

Don

[zopi]

originally from tennessee (army brat...) grew up in NM... 

My grand father was a blacksmith/pipeline welder/well driller...G'grand was a blacksmith and the other was a master carpenter...

I got into smithing because grandpa flatly refused to tech me anything about it...he didn't want me to work for a living...dumb move..tell me i can't...so I learned it for myself.

and joined the Navy...so much for not working for a living.

[zopi]

I use the toe wedge thingy quite often. It is invaluable when sawing a tapered log to center the heart. I can have it in place in minutes with a minimum of trouble. I did not buy the pro package, too cheap to buy the logramps when a landscape timber works just as well, but they would be nice when rolling a big log as it has flip up stops to keep a log from rolling back on you. The taper wedge is nice though.

I had my choice of the old style throwaway cant hook, because that is what you will do with it once you use a logrite, or for a few more bucks the logrite 48". Nice on smaller logs but take my advice, buy a 60" minimum. It does make a difference.

Don

yeah...prolly a logrite hook and pickaroon....I'll likely build a log arch or two..saw a neat deal somewhere..garden tractor axle with a beam and trailer hitch...section of guardrail on top to hold little logs...good for retrieving with an ATV...

I got the package because wifey will be learning the mill...she's not too agile...the antirollback ramps got me there...little safer for her.

i don't know if she will be able to use the parbuckling rig I talked about earlier...I will likely build a set of bunks for the mill
which will hold several logs staged, and use the ramps when I take the mill somewhere...we're thinking of doing demo's
for the fair next year..maybe i can get another local sawyer interested...maybe some chainsaw races..<G>  i'll take my 660 and play... ;D