Timberharvester Mill owner ???

[ToddC]

Just wondering what other timberharvester mill owners are doing for special parts on their mills. I guess I must have caught them on the way out back in Oct. or Nov. of 07 when I had to buy a gearbox that raises the mill up and down. I think I may be in need of another gear box (I think they are too light weight and need to be bigger). I found a place I can get another gear box but it is going to be on the pricey side, and I gorgot what ratio the box is supposed to be. Maybe I will have to try out my hydraulic cylinder idea when this gearbox goes.

[dutchman]

The new sponsor CMS has access to some parts, or they might know
another source. Good luck.

[bandmiller2]

Todd,whats your hydraulic cylinder idea??The bandmill I built uses a hyd. cyl. and cables reeved  so every inch the cyl. moves the sawhead moves two, works to perfection.Frank C.

[york]

Todd,
I have an older TH-sn#194 and have had trouble with up/down gear box,not the gears or bearings but the spiral bronze gear would keep getting loose,now fixed-in the back of my head,i too am thinking of HYD. cyl for up/dn.

Have been looking at mill built in canada "E.Poulsen" and they use 2 HYD. up/dn-one on each side-with rod end looking down,so would give you "fast up" and "slow down"

I do have there paper stuff on my desk-later will scan and try to post....

[ToddC]

The picture york posted is basically what I have in mind of doing to my mill. I striped the bronze gear on my last gearbox, the other day my mill did a jump when I was raising it so I figure this bronze gear may be getting ready to strip with this gearbox also. When I  ordered my last gear box from Timber harvester it had to be during the last few months they were in business, wish they would have given me a heads up. I also am getting ready to do away with the cable (that always frays) that moves the mill down the bed with a gear on the hyd. motor and a track. I'll have a Todd Harvester when I'm done.  ;D

[york]

Todd,

I changed the "head drive" too-moved the Hyd motor,off the head and to the saw bed rail-run hyd flow from added hyd valve at the lower hyd valve bank,put needle valve in one line-works very good.

later will get pic. on here.....Bert

[bandmiller2]

Todd,what I did is vertically in one corner a hyd.cyl.with two thin pulleys in the fork of the cylinder.The cable is clamped to the carrage at the top through the pulley's and to each side of saw-engine assy.You have an adjustment eye bolt each side ,its good enough for arial ladders,cheap and easy.I used commercial overhead door pulleys.Fast up and down feather the spool valve for fine adjustment.I found it easier to go above your mark and drop down.Frank C.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

That would work mate or you could also try two corse threded rods about 1.1/2 dia with long threaded joiner nuts some 80# chain and a low rpm Hyd motor  around the 100 rpm mark hyd motor one duel cog and one single cog Chep efective and you dont have to worry about creep in the rams as they wareout  ;) Just thinking along the lines of a ball screw head blocks on a carriage  Simple and effective ;) ;D

Reguards Chris