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Author Topic: More LT28 questions  (Read 1436 times)

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Offline Qweaver

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More LT28 questions
« on: August 02, 2010, 09:52:09 PM »
I have to be careful not to sound like I'm unhappy with my LT28.  It's a great saw for me.  But it does have a few things that could work better.  I really do not like how the jacks work.  But I think that if I added a crankup style jack to the front of the saw it would be  easier to get the hitch on and off and I could take pressure off of the other jacks to make it easier to put them up and down.
I'm sure others here have done this.  If you have successfully done this:  What jack did you use?  How and exactly where did you mount it?  Is one jack enough?  I am considering using a swivel type with a pipe welded to the side of the frame and a pin used to lock it up or down.  These are simple to use.   
Any advice greatly appreciated. 
Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Offline Bill Gaiche

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Re: More LT28 questions
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2010, 10:32:46 PM »
Look at harbor freights web site and they have swivel jacks with a plate you can weld or bolt to your mill already. bg

Offline Magicman

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Re: More LT28 questions
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2010, 11:05:41 PM »
I'm certainly not familiar with the LT28, but are you using the weight of the mill back and forth to remove and add weight as you hook up, unhook, set up and take down the mill?

I'm just wondering if you might not have developed a sequence for letting the mill head do the lifting work for you.

I know that if I get out of sequence, I may well be trying to jack something up that would be much easier if I just roll the head to the other end.  Keeping in mind, that you never roll the head to the far end without having the tail stabilizer down.
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Offline carykong

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Re: More LT28 questions
« Reply #3 on: August 03, 2010, 12:24:57 AM »
You said  " I could take pressure off of the other jacks to make it easier to put them up and down."  Majicman might be one to something here.  You take pressure off the rear jacks by moving the cutting head towards the tongue of the trailer. Then you secure the cutting head to the rear of the trailer. The tongue of the trailer will then be light enough to handle with the cutting head secured and the rear jacks up. Still confused as to why you need a jack on the tongue?

Offline Brucer

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Re: More LT28 questions
« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2010, 12:52:25 AM »
Keeping in mind, that you never roll the head to the far end without having the tail stabilizer down.

Been there, done that, don't want to do it again :( :(.

For my LT-40 HD (when I used to move it), I would raise the head clear of the travel pin but leave the safety chain hooked to the carriage. Then I'd move the carriage back as far as the chain would allow. That made it relatively easy to raise the hitch with the jack handle.

For setting up the mill I'd use the above method to set the front outrigger to the correct height. I used a level and set up the mill so the front was slightly high. Then I'd move the carriage to the front of the mill and jack up the two outriggers just behind the axle until the mill was level side-side and end-end. After that the remaining 3 outriggers just had to have a little pressure on them.

Are you using shims under your outriggers? I always put a piece of 1x8 under each outrigger and then put shims between the 1x8 and the outrigger. Before heading off to a job I made sure I had six sets of shims: 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 1", 2", plus a few 3" and 4" pieces just in case.

A couple of years ago I replaced the front and rear outriggers with the new fine-adjust ones, but that was just so I could fine-tune the level in the spring as the ground thawed. It's easy to raise the front with the hand-cranked outrigger, but I didn't find it made things go any faster.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw with two 6' extensions.
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Offline ladylake

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Re: More LT28 questions
« Reply #5 on: August 03, 2010, 04:07:51 AM »
 If you put a swivel jack on get one with a side crank unless you have plenty of room for a top crank handle too turn.   Steve
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Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: More LT28 questions
« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2010, 07:03:19 AM »
Keeping in mind, that you never roll the head to the far end without having the tail stabilizer down.
Once I did, and it was quite a scene.  LT-40 looking like an orange rocket launcher.   8)   Know everyone likes pictures but seems like the best ones happen when I don't feel like grabbing the camera.  :(
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Offline Burlkraft

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Re: More LT28 questions
« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2010, 08:09:03 AM »
I did not like the jacks on mine. Pulling up on them really tears at my chest.

I added a hyd/electric pump and 3 hyd cylinders to mine.

I run the cylinders down set my jacks and then let the cylinders back up.

Works great. I have some pics somewhere I'll try to find them.
Why not just 1 pain free day?

Offline Chuck White

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Re: More LT28 questions
« Reply #8 on: August 03, 2010, 11:15:11 AM »
MagicMan is "spot-on"!

Move the mill head to the opposite end to make the end you're trying to adjust lighter.

Been there, done that on moving the mill to the tail end without the jack down.
So, now, the first thing I do when I disconnect the hitch is ensure that both end jacks are down.
Even when I park the mill at home when I'm between saw-jobs, I always let the tail jack down so it hovers just about 2 inches off the ground.
~Chuck~
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1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG25 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener and single-tooth setter, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain a Wood-Mizer


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