iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

I realy need help blad dive into the log

Started by alsayyed, December 03, 2010, 06:39:03 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

alsayyed

Hello fellows. I need help today I was trying to mill one log, while I was pushing the saw to cut 1" slab suddenly the blade dive into log instead one inch became two inch. I have checked the reading on the scale it is ok the way I have set it. The break is ok the carriage still in one place did not move, but the blade came of the wheels.
I have noticed another phenomena  the drive belt B74 vibrate and it came out of the pulley, this is strange incident I have noticed today. Has anybody run into this situation before.

My same is the MX34 Norwood.

ladylake

If your drive belt is slipping that would cause the blade to dive.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

woodsy

Sounds like you might need to tighten that drive belt. As ladylake said a slipping belt will casuse the blade to do funny things.

Where are you located?  Tis the season in some regions for frozen logs; time to change to frozen log blades.
LT40HDG38, Logrite T36 log arch, 42 hp Kubota, 6 foot cross cut saw, lots of axes and not enough time

bandmiller2

Al, you didn't hit hardware or stones in the bark did you?? that will cause dive too. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

alsayyed

bandmill hello, i do not know and cannot tell you if i hit stone or hardware. I have checked the blade it is good still cutting. i have just started the mill half an hour ago i have started with two inch ended up 2.50 inch this is strange.

paul case

i would put on a different blade and go real slow  to make sure it stays up to speed. usually you will hear a squeeling noise if the belt is slipping. if the blade is dull or feed speed is too fast(pushing too hard) the blade will do funny things.  pc
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Jeff

woodsy , I can assure you that alsayyed's logs are not freezing. :)   His location is under his username.
I can change my profile okay. No errors. If you can,t remove all the extra info in other fields and try.

sgschwend

Best thing to do is to go through the mill setup, guides, tension, frame alignment, frame level...  Then put on a new blade, or at least make sure your saw has the correct set.

Your pictures look like a Norwood sawmill.  Plenty of those out there so you know the mill will cut right.
Steve Gschwend

sjgschwend@gmail.com

Planman1954

One thing you might check is the wheel alignment. Are the blade teeth tracking just forward of the wheels as it should? Mine have been knocked off alignment when a log jumped after I had not clamped it sufficiently. The blade can jerk the wheels off of the alignment setting. Pineywoods helped me get back to normal after quite a bit of trial and error manual spinning of the wheels. Anyway, that is what can cause diving...wheels out of whack. Good luck.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 / Solar Dry Kiln /1943 Ford 9n tractor

Bandmill Bandit

not sure what type of wood you are cutting but here are a few thing to check on in general for a band saw of any make.

Vibration
If you are sawing a sappy wood it is very possible to get saw dust lump built up under the saw blade drive wheel/pulley belt. Once you know if you have this issue you should be able feel it building with each log and the only way to correct it is clean the belt grove regulary and often in that situation so as not to damage your saw. It may be possible to get the same saw dust build up under the drive belt as well depending on how the well the guards deflect saw dust awy from these areas

Diving blade
Drive belt tension is step one. Make sure it is correct. If you have a new saw the belt will need a couple of re tightening in the first few hours of operation until it seats and will hold its tension for normal wear.

If your saw is new it is worth the time to check the over all blade alignment from the guides to the  band pulleys etc. It is not normal but not all machines come out of the plant with all bolts tightened correctly. A good once over on your saw with the tool box close by so you can check the bolts, screws and other fasteners is good idea. Good to make a slow walk around your mill with eyes wide open grabbing, gently shaking, close inspecting known parts of high wear points to make sure every thing is tight and in place is a very good operator habit to develop. Saves a lot of down time and possible expensive repair bills.

Back to the diving blade.

I have Woodmizer LT40HD28G. I have had this problem a few times, once on a brand new blade on the first 30 inches of cut. PROBLEM! The blade teeth were incorrectly set right from the factory. One side had been set while the other side was never set. Accuracy in the tooth off set angles is likely the most common problem with a diving, rising or wavy cut problems that I have run into. And yes all of you are right when it comes to debris from dirt, small stones right on up to horse shoes, rail road spikes and even porcelain dolls according to a sawyer on this site.

The first thing that goes when you hit something in the log of course is the cutting tip but right behind losing your tip is the offset angle changing and in general coming back to centre line of the blade. Depending on how the offending item is positioned in the log will determine which off set angle goes first and which way your blade will deflect. In most cases the blade will bob and weave as it cuts through the offending object and will affect both sides of the blade to cause a wavy cut.

The most common issue I found on my own mill with sharpening and setting my own blades for wavy and diving/rising blade issues is tooth off set angle adjustment accuracy. The major cause in my case was a loose support post on my tooth setter that was compromising my setting process and there for the accuracy of the tooth setting.

Every thing I have written here here is from personal experience except for the porcelain doll. Hope this helps.                
       
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

LeeB

Certainly no frozen logs in Qatar today. It was a nice day though here offshore. I'd say in the mid to upper 80's.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Kansas

I don't know anything about Norwoods, so I can't offer much advice, but I do have a question out of curiousity.  What kind of species are you cutting?

Tom

Look at some of his old posts, Kansas.  He gets into some really weird and hard stuff, like olive and acacias.

Alsayyed has proposed some mighty complexing problems, over the years.  Some of the problems we have had is trying to interpret what they call it/what we call it.  :D

Alsayyed!

Your old pictures are missing from your Picture Gallery!!   What did you do!?!

Those pictures are some of the best forum history we had.  You are a very special member and we are so proud of you and what you have done.  Please don't delete your photos. 

I remember pictures of your trailer and your chainsaw and some of the logs that you were initially sawing.   It was all special to us.  Where did the pictures go?


Coon

I think many of you are missing something.  Alsayyed  could be experiencing some major tension in the log and this is what is causing the blade to dive as it is taking the least path of resistence.  I could be wrong with this too.  Which end of the log are you sawing from? Big end? Small end?  Try sawing from the small end and see what results you have.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 w/Kohler,
Husqvarna, Stihl and, Jonsereds Saws

woodsy

Oopsie-daisy; guess I overlooked the location.  :D
LT40HDG38, Logrite T36 log arch, 42 hp Kubota, 6 foot cross cut saw, lots of axes and not enough time

trim4u2nv

I had a similar problem on my lumbermate 2000.   The belt had rolled over and twisted on itself.  Try a new belt and make sure there is no junk stuck in the bottom of the belted pulleys.  I think what happened is the belt rode below the v- groove and the set was messed up when the blade contacted metal to metal.

Dana

Try cutting a different log. I had a real problem with a treated electric line pole not cutting correctly. After trying three blades I rolled it off the mill and tried a different one. That one cut perfectly, nothing was wrong with the blades or the mill adjustment.
Grass-fed beef farmer, part time sawyer

LeeB

Logs are pretty hard to come by for Ahmed. I feel pretty sure he would really like to figure out how to cut the one he has. I went to visit with him once. He gets some interesting logs, Lebenon cedar, mesquite, eucaliptus, and other difficult woods to saw. Not too many trees in Qatar, so he is always on the lookout for one coming down. I would like to visit again if I ever get time before my flight out. I barely make the airport in time most of the time.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Tom

I'm sure he would enjoy your visit and I know that I would. Y'all shared a pretty interesting time on the last one.

Alsayyed

The very first thing I do with a diving blade is make sure it is sharp.  It is easy to damage one or knock the "set" out of it by hitting a rock or metal in the log.  If you hit metal, you can usually see a sliver of it welded onto the tip of several of the teeth and you will also hear a swishing sound when the blade is in the wood.  Here is where your metal detector will come in handy.  Make sure that you get the metal out of the wood before you put on a new blade and attempt to saw the same spot.

The loose drive belt can cause the band to do strange things too because the speed of band slows down when the belt slips.

The only way to know for sure that the "set" has been removed from the teeth is to take the band off and measure the set.  Do you have a blade maintenance kit?  If you do, you will have a setting tool and hopefully it will have a gauge to measure the thousandths of set (usually around .021)

If the wood is real hard, the band will try to follow the grain sometimes.  The remedy is usually to slow your sawing progress, sharpen the band, or change the band.

alsayyed

First I have to thank everybody that paid and effort to solve this problem by writing in the forum. I was reading all articles and take the advice from this article and said to my self when I wake up in the morning I have to go and get the belt...
While I was drinking my coffee decided to write and let you know what was going on.
These are some steps that I made.
1 – I loosened the clutch pulley screw. Because the clutch pulley was up, so I brought it down to accommodate the small belt. Then placed B73 belt instead of B74.
2 – Aligned the wheels.
3 – Clean the dust with air compressor completely.
4 – I replaced old blade with a new ones.
I set my cut for one inch and run the saw it was very nice did not dive.
I run again and again sound perfect to me.
It looks very nice. I could not cut anymore because it is out side the house in the street.
I have one log left which I am going to cut maybe tomorrow.
Again I thank you people for take your time.













ladylake

Good to hear it's cutting straight again, looks like it was cutting nasty before.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

northwoods1

One thing I particularly like about his forum is the diversity of people who post here it is really interesting to read. And there is hardly such a thing as an unsolvable problem with the combined wealth of knowledge and so many folks eager to help :)

paul case

glad your up and going again. feels good to be going again dont it!  pc
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Bandmill Bandit

Oh what i would give to get my hand on a few of those cedars of Lebanon. Saw a picture of a couple a few years back. Could have built a nice cabin out of the 2 of them.
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

wannasaw

Alsayyed, I know I'm late with the reply but the same happend to me this weekend.(fri) The blade dove right in the middle of sawing a 16.2" into two 8" to be sawn into 1x8 slices for a customer. Didn't dive wildly but ran down a couple of times through the 16' cut. Maybe 1/8 or less. I knew it right away and the cust. figured it out shortly as we worked together and talked it out. Any way the drive belt on my LT28 had worn and in using the saw over time it was hard to notice it in the throw of the handle. Once we made the adjustment I rememberd what it was sussposed to feel like and knew we had made the right adjustment. End of problem and was able to let some blade tension loose which is where I started hunting the problem. Needless to say...Thanks to the alumni on the FF where wannasaws are made into sawyers.
LT28 70something Int'l Backhoe loader  Kubota L285, Husky 55, F-250 7.3, 12'x6' single axle trailer, Kubota RTV900 w/remote hyd. Iron will...

Thank You Sponsors!