Cabin Addition

[Raider Bill]

So basically we are talking about the same thing. It's just a trademark brand.

[Coon]

Hey, how did my tie down straps get way down there in the south?   :D

[nas]

Just got caught up on this thread.  Great job MM.  Looks awesome!! 

Up here that plywood is called "chalet ply"

Nick

[Patty]

We used that T1-11 on one of the houses we built. I really like the looks of it. The only problem we had with it was that the downy woodpeckers loved it for some reason.  :  We got pretty good with the pellet gun when we lived there.  ;)

[ljmathias]

Pink wood, pink fiberglass insulation, what will they color pink next?  Actually, I had a red shirt that got washed up hot with a load of my unmentionables... had to be very careful where I wore those!

MM- what R-value did you use on the cabin?  We're going with 6" walls and 12" or  there abouts in the roofing... would love to have no utility bills for HVAC, plus the unit would last a lot longer maybe?

Lj

[Magicman]

Lj, this is R13 for the walls and R19 for the ceilings.  I'm supposed to get another 4 with the Styrofoam (it's not Styrofoam  but some kinda foil backed foam).  I'm sure that you will use the R19 in the walls and R38 in your ceilings?



Anyway, I got the foam panels in the first day.  This also insures that there is a space between the fiberglass insulation and the roofing.



I had to figure out a way to hang the fiberglass insulation without it pulling loose and falling down.



My arms were tired from working overhead all day and also my squeezing hand was tired from stapling



I did get a chance to try out my "new" palm nailer.  The only problem that I saw was that, as with a nail gun, you have no feel if you hit or missed the stud.



My roofing job got "field tested".  The weather lady said that I got 2".  I can't verify that, but I do know that it was a flood.



To get to the existing heat/cooling duct, I had to remove a 2X4 on the existing Cabin.  It wasn't going to come loose.   :-\



I did get a start on my ceiling.  This is 1X6 SYP that the actual ceiling will attach to.  Kinda like "subceiling" sxcept it's not under the ceiling, but above it.  Maybe "pre-ceiling?

[SwampDonkey]

 ;) I see your a golf cart rider.  ;D Every old fart up here and his wife has one. I laugh over it a bit because they can't be licensed, but they go up and down the roads. About 25 years ago the cops made a big stink if someone drove their riding lawn mower down the road to the next house or the cemetery to mow. That soon blew over with the next wind I think and I never hear anyone getting any hard time over it. Can't be bothering the old farts on their carts neither. ;D They need to be 15 and dirt bike'n without a license. L0L  :D :D

Your coming right along on the camp. Maybe that Alaskan trip is closer than you think. ;)

Have a good one.

[pigman]

I had to remove a 2X4 on the existing Cabin.  It wasn't going to come loose.

It's looks to me it did come loose. ;)  But, I believe it took a lot of effort to cause it to come loose. ;D

[ljmathias]

Nice work, MM, coming along real fast.  Not sure about the pre-ceiling, sounds like something an airline pilot might say.  So describe for us what the advantages of the palm nailer are?  Seems like you still have to hold the nail with the other hand to get it set, no?  And then it sorta pounds the nail in with air pressure powering the hammer?  Nail guns seem more efficient- press and shoot, which is probably what happened with that 2X4 you had to remove, the one with all the nails in it?  Someone just got trigger-happy with their nail gun?

Wish I was dried in on the new house- downpour yesterday filled her up it took my grandson an hour with a broom to push much of it outside.  Oh, well, that's the price we pay for building slow.

Lj

[metalspinner]

That subceiling looks good enough in its own right, Magicman.   What are you going to put under it?

The beams look really cool.  Are you going to put some kind of finish on them?

[Magicman]

Lj,  The palm nailer is handy if you are in a tight spot.

Chris, I'm planning to leave the beams just as they are, no finish.  I do know, but I have not disclosed what my actual ceiling will be yet.  I could have just put up lathing, but what the heck, I did it solid.

[LOGDOG]

Yep LJ ...palm nailers are good in tight spots as well as in the open. One thing I like about them is that I can drive multiple sizes of nails that I may have in my pouch. I've got the Paslode airless nailers too, but when I want to switch up what nails I'm using I have to eject the clip and put a different run of nails in. Not to mention, nail clips are a bit more expensive than the loose nails. I've also driven 8" ring shank pole barn spikes with my palm nailer. my air nailer won't do that for me. Another application that I liked was using the rubber gasket ring shank nails for metal roofing. I was able to stay in control of my nailing and just tap, tap, tap that last little bit to get it snug but not dent the metal. Also no risk of a glancing blow from the hammer hitting the metal roofing and damaging it. I believe the head on my palm nailer is magnetized to hold the nail. Good little tool to have in your tool box. They're inexpensive to buy.

Place is looking great Magicman. Did you ever figure out a use for that concrete round you had?

[Magicman]

Mine has 3 different nail holder tubes and two are magnetized.  The air nailer could not be used with those loose 3½" galvanized nails.  I just wish that I had remembered that I had that palm nailer, especially when nailing down that White Oak porch decking.   :-\

That concrete "wagon wheel" will be used somewhere as a step landing.  I really need to build those steps, but I guess that I really need to do lots of stuff.

I'm already thinking about a big cooking and get together when I finish, but I gotta finish first.  As I said, "I guess that I really need to do lots of stuff".

I sawed Friday, picked up a saw job Thursday and another this morning.   :-\   Plus, I have two Grandsons playing baseball.   

[Magicman]

I am now waiting on my windows so I can then hang the front siding. I'll gather materials tomorrow. I hope that the windows come in tomorrow.

I have a Grandson playing baseball tomorrow night, so Tuesday will be my first work day this week. I hope to have the majority of the outside work completed this week.

I also have to clear trails and bushhog getting ready for the July 4th 4-wheeler scavenger hunt. That is always a highlight for the Grandkids.

Last years scavenger hunt:  https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,44826.msg645149.html#msg645149

[ljmathias]

Good balance of what's important, Lynn- give those grandkids whatever time you can.  I find more and more that things get done by just plugging away at them- my youngest son is more of let's-get-'er-done-NOW kind of worker, which makes me nervous and makes it hard for us to work together.  Plus, while he may get stuff done fast, it isn't always right, and that makes a difference- going back and fixing stuff eats more of your time and energy than just doing it right the first time. ;)

Lj

[ljmathias]

MM: just talked to the local supplier of metal roofing, and he sent me to their web-sit for more information.  USSteel did a study of various steels including gavalume and coated roofing, and found that PT lumber in contact with the roofing accelerated corrosion:
http://www.centralstatesmfg.com/UserFiles/File/ACQ%20Pressure%20Treated%20Lumber.pdf

I can send the pdf file directly if you want.  He recommended using regular 1X4 untreated wood lathing to prevent this and to allow air floor as you discussed in other posts...

Lj

[Magicman]

Thanks Lj, I picked the pdf up on the other thread.  I removed a couple of screws and peeked under the Galvalume that I put up on the original Cabin 15 years ago and was OK.  Of course it was treated with CCA and not ACQ.  As the article stated and as I suspected, moisture is the culprit.

It was interesting to read: "The minimum retention of ACQ in the treated wood is 0.25 lb/ft2 for
above-ground applications".  Mine was .06.  :-\  That is only ¼ of the "standard".  I wonder who is watching who.

In your instance, I would absolutely use their recommendations and not use PT lathing.  

[Magicman]

No windows today.  I can only blame myself, but I still don't like it.  I'll work on fascia and soffit tomorrow.  If I have time after doing my trail and bushhogging, I'll work on the ceiling.

[Larry]

It was interesting to read: "The minimum retention of ACQ in the treated wood is 0.25 lb/ft2 for
above-ground applications".  Mine was .06.  :-\  That is only ¼ of the "standard".  I wonder who is watching who.

The lumber yards are watching there bottom line...and more chemical costs more money.  I found out the other day most yards don't stock any ground contact other than posts.

A lot of yards have switched from ACQ to a new boron treatment.  It wouldn't surprise me that your lathes are the new boron treatment which is not very corrosive at all.

I used both treatments on my house bottom plates.  I ran out of hot dipped J bolts on the concrete pour and used some old carbon steel I had on hand.  In the ACQ they corroded right up.  Replaced them with new anchors.

If your lathes are ACQ the most corrosion will occur in the next couple of months unless you have a leak or condensation.  Back out a screw this fall and take a look at it.  Hope it looks nice and clean.

[ljmathias]

Larry: hadn't heard about the boron treatment although it's mentioned throughout the forum here for rough cut wood protection.  Any idea what they're using and what the uses are?  I would doubt it's for in-ground use- I'd think the water/moisture would eventually wash it away and let the bugs have their snack.

MM: you're right, the problem is worse when there's lots of moisture or water present with the ACQ, but don't forget, we do live in the great state of underwater Mississippi, where humidity rarely goes below saturation point and in-wall condensation is a real problem.  Anyway, sounds like yours is under control and will stay that way.  Sorry to hear about the windows which reminds me that I haven't ordered mine yet, darn memory failed me again!     Going to make my list tonight.

Lj

[Larry]

I was really thinking of MCA treated wood.  The brand carried by our local yard is Yellawood. "YellaWood® brand pressure treated pine exhibits corrosion rates on metal products similar to CCA pressure treated wood and untreated wood. " I still use hot dipped galvanized fasterners.  My local yard must have switched brands again as my stair stringers showed up yesterday...tag says Lifewood but still MCA treated.

They also carry the borate treated stuff but it is higher priced and the boron leaches out (slowly).  Some builders are using it for plates (code approved) because it is straighter than regular treated wood.  It's carried at Meeks and I believe the brand is Hi-Bor.  I didn't use any because of the higher cost.

Sorry about the fuzzy thinking on my part.  Must be the old-zheimer's kicking in.

[Magicman]

My goal was to complete the actual front of the Addition this week.  My butt came dragging home after this evening with that completed, but much other work also got completed.  Things like bushhogging and bridge repair.



A view of the completed front.



Another view looking to the right from the existing front porch.     I'm happy to see something actually completed.

[WDH]

That is splendid and it did not take you too long either.

[ljmathias]

Great job, MM- you may be dragging butt because you kicked it!  Or does that make sense even?  You are pretty agile, so maybe...   :D

Yes, it's great to finish a project or even one part that's clearly defined so you can say to yourself, Well, now, that's done!  and give yourself a pat on the back- but that requires agility, too, so maybe that doesn't make sense either.

Been a long hot day.   >:(

Lj

[Woodchuck53]

Looking good MM. Doesn't appear the heat slows you down much. Stay safe. CV