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Author Topic: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels  (Read 8359 times)

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Offline Ga Mtn Man

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Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« on: February 05, 2012, 01:17:10 PM »
I'm planning on buying a portable bandmill in the near future and I'm working my way through each  manufacturers' web-site trying to sort out the pros and cons.  I ran across this statement on one of our sponsor's web site:

 "19" All Metal Balanced Bandsaw Wheels - allows the bandsaw blade to run true with no vibration typical with belt insert band wheels since they cannot be balanced. No changing of belts and no belt deterioration from drip lubricants".

So far they are the only one that I've come across that uses an all metal band wheel.  Any opinions on the subject?  :-\
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 Logrite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Offline Island Sawyer

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2012, 01:43:14 PM »
 Thera are a few guys in my area who have taken their wheels to a machine shop to have steel belts welded in place and a slight crown machined on them. The mills were woodmizers but you could probably do it to most any of the mills out there.

Offline petefrom bearswamp

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2012, 02:02:43 PM »
I have had no issues with vibration with my WM and I don't use a lot of lube now but with my last WM, I used a mix of diesel and chain and bar oil with no adverse results.
LT40SHDD51
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2012, 02:44:21 PM »
Different sawmill manufacturers have done their own research and have designed their products accordingly.  I would be hesitant to question the different ideas as right, wrong, good, bad, or better.  Each manufacturer certainly believes that their design is the best, but I particularly dislike any manufacturer that would attempt to degrade another sawmill or product design in order sell their own.  I prefer positive advertising rather than negative.

Also, my recommendation is to use the blade lube, etc. that is recommended or approved by that particular manufacturer.
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Offline pineywoods

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2012, 03:20:37 PM »
There's one more option, loose belts vs tight belts. Lots of arguments both ways. I'm firmly in the loose belt column. They just don't look right, but work just fine thanku
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Offline tyb525

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2012, 07:00:17 PM »
I use what works good, and loose v belts work good. WM has used that design since their first mill, and it has always worked great for me.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2012, 07:04:37 PM »
"19" All Metal Balanced Bandsaw Wheels - allows the bandsaw blade to run true with no vibration typical with belt insert band wheels since they cannot be balanced. No changing of belts and no belt deterioration from drip lubricants".

Sounds like Cook. I have one and it is the only mill I've run/owned. The wheels are balanced very well. After looking at other manual mills before I made my purchase (9 yrs ago) I selected the Cook's because it had the least vibration. The crowned steel wheels may be a little noiser since it is steel running on steel but I have no belts to replace. Just my limited experience.
Bob
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Offline tyb525

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2012, 07:30:27 PM »
Oh- The WM wheels are indeed balanced. If you look, you can see places where some material has been drilled out in order to balance them. Sure the belt might not be, but since it's weight is small in comparison to the wheels, I can't see it being a big issue. Your engine's vibrations will have a bigger impact than any minute wheel vibrations.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2012, 07:54:37 PM »
Really a non issue,I've run tight belts on my bandmill probibly eight years their just fine and I use diesel&oil lube.When I ran the LT- 70 mizer we ran loose.I'd have no quams about running crowned steel.More advertising hype than anything. Frank C.
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Offline Ga Mtn Man

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #9 on: February 05, 2012, 08:01:29 PM »
Thanks guys for all your input.  For someone who knows next to nothing about band mills, all the info from so many different manufacturers can be a bit overwhelming.  But I shall persevere and I WILL have my own mill someday soon. 8) 8) 8)
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 Logrite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Offline mikeb1079

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #10 on: February 05, 2012, 10:52:18 PM »
i agree that it's marketing.  i was in your shoes before i built my mill and i ended up using some old crappy bandsaw wheels that are out of flat and had old half worn out belts.  i was really nervous that they wouldn't work or the blade would fly off, but they work wonderfully and leave a fine finish (until you hit a nail).   :)  most likely any mill you get will treat you right.   8)
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
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Offline slider

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #11 on: February 06, 2012, 07:25:47 AM »
i concur with bandmiller just not a big deal.i've run them loose ,run them tight .i've run diesel and all kinds of soap with no bad results .i think the  steel wheels would be just fine but vibration is just not a big issue with the belts.  al
al glenn

Offline thecfarm

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #12 on: February 06, 2012, 08:25:37 AM »
I have the belt insert band wheels on my. Nice and smooth.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline rockman

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #13 on: February 06, 2012, 10:28:47 AM »
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Offline Ga Mtn Man

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #14 on: February 06, 2012, 11:17:23 AM »
Yeah, that video and the one from Cook's seem contradictory.  Both companies went through a similar evolutionary process but came to different conclusions.  As other folks have said, I suspect it doesn't matter much in the end.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 Logrite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Offline buildthisfixthat

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #15 on: February 06, 2012, 02:21:51 PM »
on 19 " or larger wheels all metal wheels on smaller wheels v-belt or rubber tire over metal
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Offline petefrom bearswamp

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #16 on: February 06, 2012, 06:29:38 PM »
The video makes valid points.
On the WM belt change takes about 4 or 5 minutes and I change about  once a year for about 60 bucks or so..
If the crowned steel wheels are the cats meow why do you have to use a band roller?
I'm not saying that it doesn't work, just inquiring.
LT40SHDD51
Kubota 8540 tractor, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 550 Sportsman ATV
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Offline JFarmer

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #17 on: February 06, 2012, 09:58:49 PM »
Well just from my experience, I ran a LT70 with belted wheels and a LT40 with belted wheels. When I converted my 40 over to electric i noticed my blades where vibrating very bad and breaking after the first sharpening. I told a friend of mine about it and he told me I should switch over to steel wheels. so I ordered a set from cooks and it solved all of my problems. Now I am sawing faster with my mill and not breaking bands as often. I just wish I would have put them on my 70 when I had it, it would have really helped it.Also I have a baker resaw with steel wheels and really like it too. I am sold on steel wheels now!
LT40 electric,woodmizer twin blade edger,cooks catclaw sharpener,suffolk setter, john deere 450 dozer, case 90xt skidsteer, 7010 4x4 mahindra tractor

Offline Migal

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #18 on: February 06, 2012, 10:28:32 PM »
I like the diameter rule is what i was thinking when ordering my mill and Herman assured me that he only new one mill that actually had so much work that needed replaced He sounded very honest and they are local to my area was my determining factor. okay price did have a part in that decision  :D
Stihl learning and picked up my Log Master LM2 Cat 34hp 02 21 12! 230MF+ the toys that go with it! MS361 MS271 Stihl PB500 Echo 48" Logrite 16ft Bass Tracker Pro' Abua Garcia 5600 bait caster, Wood working equipment' Lake Lot never enough time! oh don't forget the fridge with ale! Loving Wife Rebeca

Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: Belted vs. all-metal band wheels
« Reply #19 on: February 08, 2012, 01:40:09 AM »
I ran 24 steel wheels for several years until they developed a crack between the balance holes that kept growing.
I could have ordered a set but with several months delay.
It cost $cost $125 and two trips up north to have them recrowed.  So went with the belted wheels last spring. I have changed two belts and the second set is well broke in.  I preferred the all steel wheels, but the belted wheels are performing just fine.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
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