Author Topic: Arborist saws (Read 8736 times)

OneWithWood · « **on:** March 10, 2004, 07:18:08 AM »

I am thinking about acquiring an arborist saw such as the Stihl 019T, 191T, 020T or MS200T. I think I can pick up a used 0 series for around $175. The newer 191T and MS200T appear to great lightweight units but the prices are more than I am willing to pay for an occasional use saw.
The reason for getting one is not that I want to swing around in tree tops but I want a lightweight saw that I can carry around in the woods for TSI work and building wildlife structures. My 038 and MS440 are just too heavy to lug around all day unless I am falling and bucking trees.
What do you all think of the Stihl arborist saws? Kevin I remember you mentioning an Echo or Poulon that a lot of arborist use. Comments? Chet what do you use?
Thanks in advance for the great advice I know will be forthcoming.

Kevin · « **Reply #1 on:** March 10, 2004, 08:48:55 AM »

There are plenty of arborists on here now so you should get a few replies.
I use the Husqvarna 335 and would probably buy the 338 next time around because of the fuel primer.
The problem with arborist saws is the price of them.
The chainsaw manufacturers put higher price tags on them for no other reason than they are primarily bought by arborists.
The 200T Stihl is also popular.
Echo is probably a good one to consider from the reports I've read...and the price tag.

Minnesota_boy · « **Reply #2 on:** March 10, 2004, 08:57:18 AM »

Kevin,
When you are up in the air and trying to start the saw, I'll bet the fuel primer is worth the extra cost of the saw.

Stephen_Wiley · « **Reply #3 on:** March 10, 2004, 10:57:49 AM »

Years ago by far the Stihl 020S was the best arborist saw. The mechanical advantages far outweighed any competitors.

Than Stihl increased the cost of the 020 reaching nearly $900

About this time I began testing other saws for reliability, cost and performance. The winner was the Echo 3400 series. The past few years many manufacturers have been improvising performance in order to comply with emmission requirements.

Key component to purchasing any saw is service availability, keep this in mind when you look at the newer - brands.

Tanaka built an excellent saw comparable to the Echo. But the parts and service availability was not there.

Kevin · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2004, 12:52:02 PM »

When the muffler screen was plugged on my 335 it was very easy to start.
Once I cleaned it up and put a new plug in it, it went back to it's old difficult cold starting. :-/
Once it's warm and running it's fine.

oldsaw-addict · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2004, 01:46:13 PM »

I remember buying an Echo CS-3000 for about $200 once, for what you want to use it for and want to pay for it, I think this would be a very nice saw to buy. The only thing I could really complain about on that saw was the Oregon intenz bar kept sliding back letting the chain get loose real fast, and the thing only has ONE piston ring instead of two like the Stihls have, BTW all echo saws up to the Cs345 are the same way with rings. I was only 7.5 pounds or so and 1.83 CID but it had a good deal of power for the engine size, also very reliable starting and all that good stuff. Overall I would give the CS300 or maybe a CS340 or 345 a look, they get about an 8.5 on a scale of 1-10 from me.

jokers · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2004, 01:55:51 PM »

Quote

...... and the thing only has ONE piston ring instead of two like the Stihls have.....

Yeah? So tell me exactly how that affected you negatively? There are Stihls with one ring also, a good example is the 019T, I won`t get near enough to a 191 to find out if they are the same.

Russ

oldsaw-addict · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2004, 02:02:14 PM »

Well, two piston rings usually means more compression and higher HP. My old Mac 110 that the CS3000 replaced had 2 rings and was a fierce competitor with many newer saws in its class. I would like to see more new models woth 2 rings rather than one simply for more power with less weight.

rahtreelimbs · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2004, 05:30:54 PM »

The difference between 1 and 2 ring pistons is rather moot nowadays. Even if it was a slight issue, I would not let that keep me from buying a saw that otherwise fit the bill.

jokers · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2004, 05:45:26 PM »

Quote

Well, two piston rings usually means more compression and higher HP. My old Mac 110 that the CS3000 replaced had 2 rings and was a fierce competitor with many newer saws in its class. I would like to see more new models woth 2 rings rather than one simply for more power with less weight.

Sorry oldsaw, but the facts refute your beliefs. Your analysis of the differences between your "old Mac 110" and the CS3000 is too simplistic and consequently lacks merit in my opinion. You also couldn`t have made a more apples to oranges comparison if you`d tried. Furthermore, higher compression alone does not guarantee higher power.

Don`t take my comments harshly because that isn`t my intention, and I also recognize that you have probably bought into the Stihl "two ring superiority" rhetoric while Stihl was quietly slipping it to the consumer with less than cutting edge engineering and single rings in their cheaper saws and they have tried singles in a few other models as well. An honest, old time Stihl mechanic can tell you this. Just don`t believe everything that you hear or read. Look at the history of the different designs and you will find stars and slugs in both single and double ring engines.

Russ

chet · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2004, 08:07:54 PM »

Well OneWithWood, I'm not sure you'd think what I climb with as an arborist saw. For quite some time now I have been using 61 Husky's, a little on the heavy side for the treetops but ya get use to it.

One job I had a few years back, it seemed that every saw I touched that day broke down. At noon the only saw left running was my old 2100 Husky with a 32" bar. I finished the day with that old girl, but it 'bout killed me. I can safely say that you can rule out the 2100 Husky as an arboist saw.

oldsaw-addict · « **Reply #11 on:** March 10, 2004, 10:18:23 PM »

I sure dont call a 6 cubic inch saw a climbing saw by any means. I'll take my good old Power Mac 310 up the tree over a 2100 anyday simply because it makes more sense and weighs much less than the 2100. that big thing is great on the ground but never a useful machine to me in the tree like a PM310 is. the 2100 is more of a severe duty felling/ daily milling use type saw in my book. Now if I could just remember where I put that book of definitons for saws....

Corley5 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 10, 2004, 10:29:48 PM »

When the job needs to be finished you use what you've got

OneWithWood · « **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2004, 06:39:33 AM »

Chet,
That's why I will never arm wrestle you!
Maybe I should lift some weights, quit being a weenie and just lug the 440 up and down the ravines.

I can always say to myself ' If that old man Chet can climb trees with his 61 I can surely carry around this thing'

Thanks for the reply.

Stephen_Wiley · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2004, 12:20:56 PM »

Chet, sounds like a natural arborist.

An arborist saw is: whatever saw will perform the task at hand with the least effort or the most power.

Often the weight is held momentarily during the cut. The rest of the time the saw remains tied to a lowering line. (Not like carrying it throught the brush up steep ravines for 10 hour days).

Fact is I have had to use my Stihl 075 with a 5 foot bar before.

Captain · « **Reply #15 on:** March 11, 2004, 03:27:11 PM »

I got a used 020AV Stihl from an arborsit one time...needed a carb rebuild. I still keep it and use it frequently when limbing...I've never seen a saw its size cut SO FAST.

I keep the wife away from it, however. It has no chain brake. I make her run a MS360.

Captain.

crosscut · « **Reply #16 on:** March 12, 2004, 12:20:33 AM »

saw that is best for you is what is comfortable to you and what you are famialiar with? close second is what does the dealer in you area support and service. personally i prefer husky hands down bar none. but if i need parts here in central fl i better be ready for a long drive or willing to wait awhile . warranty on husky here is excellent but dealers are nonexistent in my area due to big chain stores there prices are way cheap but try telling some guy fresh out of high school about your saw problems sheesh some of the strange things my saws do confuse anyone

dealer support really does matter price is nice but a saw that wont run is wortless to me and have 2 very new saws in my spare parts pile wanna talk about aggravating

chet · « **Reply #17 on:** March 12, 2004, 05:58:33 PM »

Quote

Often the weight is held momentarily during the cut. The rest of the time the saw remains tied to a lowering line. (Not like carrying it throught the brush up steep ravines for 10 hour days).

I'm not a big fan of having an extra rope in the tree to work around, just to have it to hold the saw. I'll will sometimes tie off the saw if I won't be needing it for a while, but otherwise I keep it straped to my belt.

chet · « **Reply #18 on:** March 12, 2004, 06:09:50 PM »

Quote

Chet,
That's why I will never arm wrestle you!
Maybe I should lift some weights, quit being a weenie and just lug the 440 up and down the ravines.
I can always say to myself ' If that old man Chet can climb trees with his 61 I can surely carry around this thing'
Thanks for the reply.

OneWithWood, I got news fur ya dar buddy. If I'm old you got problems too.

We are both half way to dat hundred candle birthday cake. 'Spose we better include Keven, he's in da same club too.

OneWithWood · « **Reply #19 on:** March 13, 2004, 04:30:53 AM »

I've been following a couple Stihl 020s and 019s on e-bay. They must be good saws because they quickly zoomed past my budget! I'll lower my standards and start following the less expensive units.

Chet,
Fine wine comes to mind. . .

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Author Topic: Arborist saws (Read 8736 times)

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