LT70 power feed problem

[WV_WhiteOak]

I've owned this used 2007 (or 2008) LT70 (2000 hrs) for about 6 months.  I still have a lot to learn.  Any direction is appreciated. 

I was pulling a large slab back and the skidsteer operator moved in place to "catch" it and it stopped against the skidsteer forks.  I pushed again and apparently it was against the machine.  Not sure if this damaged it, but either way, the feed won't move in either direction.  This happened right at noon on Saturday - just after the closing of WM office, so I went to the manual.  Checked breaker - it was fine.  Everything else works fine (up/down, hydraulics, etc).  I am able to move the carriage up and down the tracks manually - nothing binding it.  I put my hand on the motor and it didn't feel hot.  Drum switches look OK, but not sure what I am looking for there.

Tried to understand the different LED lights and other lights that diagnose (BL TL BR TL) Vcc, etc.  I still don't know what is wrong.  Here is what I show on the LED lights:

1) Nine out of 10 lights are RED/ON (the one on far right is OFF) - when Key is ON, feed in neutral,
2) Two out of 10 lights are RED/ON (the first two on the far left) when Key is ON, Feed in Forward, potentiometer is at ZERO
3) Three out of 10 lights are RED/ON (the first three on the far left) when  Key is ON, Feed in Forward, potentiometer is at middle of range.

One fellow WM owner suggested brushes on the motor.  I've read 20 different posts on this forum that suggest it could be anything from a control box (not sure where this is) or the drum switch or the potentiometer switch.

Any guidance is much appreciated.  I'm sure WM will straighten me out on Monday, but thought I would throw it out there on this forum today.

[Dave Shepard]

I don't know anything about the LT70 feedworks. I'm sure you'll get some suggestions here, but WM will be able to sort you out tomorrow.

Welcome to the Forum.

[WV_WhiteOak]

Thanks Dave, this is a great forum.

[customsawyer]

Get a test light and see if you are getting power to the motor. If not track it back to where you are getting power. If you are getting power to the motor then check your brushes. I have had the wire come loose on the brush itself so if you hit the skid steer a little hard it might have jarred something loose.

[backwoods sawyer]

reset the feed button

[Magicman]

I am of no help but Welcome to the Forestry forum, WV_WhiteOak.   

[drobertson]

Not sure what to say here, but if the hit did no damage to any wiring, then it is a fluke, I have had a few issues when going mobile, (meaning a jolt can cause issues) but they settle down after running.  I'm thinking there is an issue with a board, that was ready to go, and the timing was right at this particular time,  Monday is coming, call wmz, and it will be figured out soon enough, have volt meter handy, and don't discount checking all the connections. 
david

[stavebuyer]

I'd manually push the head back and forth to check for any mechanical binding, and then check the brushes on the drive motor.

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Jim.

[thecfarm]

WV_WhiteOak,welcome to the forum. You must be doing some sawing with a mill that size. Good luck to you and let us know. You could help out another member. Do you saw for hire?

[WV_WhiteOak]

Thanks for all the welcomes!  And thanks for all of your ideas!  I am going to call WM this afternoon.

* backwoods sawyer, thx, where is the "reset" button for the feed? I pushed the feed breaker (70) on the outside of the box, but no help.

* stavebuyer, thx, mill is free and I can push it up and down the rail.  I will check the brushes next.

* dronbinson, thx, I will pick up a volt meter today when I go back to troubleshoot it with WM this afternoon.

* customsawyer, thx, I will get my tester and check the connections.

* thecfarm, thx for the well wishes, I am doing a bit of custom sawing on the weekends and evenings.  Right now I am sawing about 100 old logs that a builder has piled up.  Mostly oak and poplar.

[WV_WhiteOak]

Thanks for all the help!

Results:

Spoke with WM this afternoon, we looked at brushes, they appear fine (1 1/4"), checked voltage at the board - all fine, then checked voltage at motor - all good.

They recommended a new motor - 3/4 hp DC - $425. 

[hackberry jake]

Heres one. http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=10-2573&catname=electric its a little cheaper.

[WV_WhiteOak]

Heres one. http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=10-2573&catname=electric its a little cheaper.

Thank you Jake!

[pineywoods]

If you have power to the motor and it isn't tripping breakers/blowing fuses, it is most likely repairable. Bet if you took it apart, you would find a broken wire, probably connecting to a brush.

[gmmills]

   Don't get in a hurry to buy a new motor. There are a couple of things you need to check out.  There is more to check with the brushes than just their overall length. A brush can look just fine and still not be good. Take a volt-ohm , mutimeter, and check tom make sure there is continuity from the contact face of the brush to the terminal on the end of the brush wire. I have seen a brush look perfectly fine and not have continuity, open circuit.

   Another thing to check is the heavy gauge wires that lead from the threaded terminal to the brush mounting bracket. Under heavy amp draw situations one of the wires can burn in two. I have seen this happen a number of times. The terminal wires can be replaced. Does require disassembly of the motor to access the wires. I've made up these wires from heavy gauge wire and terminal ends from your local auto parts store. A whole lot more economical than buying a new motor.

    From your description of the failure I'm leaning toward one of the terminal wires being burnt in two.   

   

[ladylake]

 those Surplus Center motors are made in China.    Steve

[slider]

I had the same problem,brushes looked fine.It was the spring that holds the brush in place.Replaced the springs from a spare kit and back to work.Before I dropped 400 bucks I would have someone go through it.

[ladylake]

It might not be bad to get a new $400 motor but I'd sure get the old one fixed for a spare and carry it with on custom jobs.   Steve

[hackberry jake]

those Surplus Center motors are made in China.    Steve

Surplus center carries all different brands made everywhere. They carry baldor as well which is made about 30 miles from where I live. Its likley wm uses some foreign made parts on their mills to keep costs down as well.

[ladylake]

Those 56c 12 volt motors are made in China, I've found Lesson motors for about $100 more, Baldors are good motors also.    Steve

[Dave Shepard]

Only foreign parts on a WM I can think of would be Kubota or Yanmar diesel engines.

[just_sawing]

You might jumper the up down to the leads to make sure you have it right. If I remember correctly you are dealing with a ground control so even if you have voltage to the motor it may be fine. You might also Check to make sure where the voltage is going to which lead and ground momentary the other and see if the motor works.
I run a 70 and have had leads break internally the motor come loose from the  gear housing and the transfer shaft break but after all that no brush problems.

[hackberry jake]

Only foreign parts on a WM I can think of would be Kubota or Yanmar diesel engines.

I know very little about wm, but I just figured since they are electric over hydraulic, a lot of electrical components are made over seas. Switches, h-bridges, solenoids, etc. Also kohler and Lombardi are being made overseas. I believe some of the kohlers are still "assembled" here with overseas parts. Just like every other manufacturer these days, they are made with parts from everywhere. Toyota trucks actually have the most percentage of parts made in the U.S. I cant think of anything that has over 1,000 parts that is 100% american made. I wish it wasn't that way.

[barbender]

I've seen a couple of Chinese bearings on my LT-40. Ones that failed I'm not complaining, I know WM mills are by and large US made with quality components.