Tk blade guides

[Bigbo1234]

I have a tk 1600 and my current blade guide system is the 3 bearing type. I am wanting to upgrade to the flanged style but its $180 for the bearings and flange and $40 something for the blocks( not exactly sure what the blocks are for). Just wondering if there is a way to make my own upgrade. Is the flanged part something I can get at granger or McMaster Carr? Is this upgrade really that beneficial? I cut pretty accurate right now, but my bearings don't last that long.

[pineywoods]

I understand cooks sawmills will sell you the rollers. Bearings are standard off-the-shelf items. The rollers are heat treated, VERY hard. Mine (wm) wore down tapered. I tried to turn them on my lathe. A carbide cutter won't even scratch the surface.

[tazz]

I also have the TK 1600 and went ahead and spent the $180 for the new guide rollers. I have not put them on yet so I can't speak for the performance. Just looking at them, doesn't look like $180 worth to me, they just have a similar bearing inside of the roller, however, you have a larger diameter with the new roller which means fewer revolutions and your only dealing with two bearings instead of six (counting both sides). I plan to get those installed on my mill this weekend and will add my other 2 cents after I have a chance to try them out.

[Larry]

The flanged guide bearings on my TK2000 don't last long either.  If you use soap the life is really short.  There a double row bearing so replacement cost is higher than a common single row bearing.

I have found using a higher quality bearing will extend the life, but it is still too short.

[Will_Johnson]

Here's to TimberKing for always trying to make the newest updates available to owners whose machines have older designs!



Just to clarify: to update your older three bearing system to the newest system with greaseable bearings and flanged steel guide rollers you will pay $178. This includes the rollers, bearings and the post/block assembly on which they mount.

On some versions this retrofit also requires replacing the actual piece onto which the block mounts. In this situation, yes, you will need an additional ~ $48 part.

Obviously everyone's individual experiences vary but I can say that on the whole the need to replace guide roller bearings on these machines plummeted when we went to this system. Keep them well-greased to keep debris and water purged from them and they should do great for you.

Given that we're talking about the specific area of retro-fit parts for TK mills I hope I am not out of line in saying that the parts other sawmill companies offer for retrofit on TK mills are usually serviceable but from what I have seen (and I have seen them) they do not have the fit and finish that TK parts have.

Not saying they don't/won't work. But we try really hard on all of our equipment to achieve a fairly high level of fit and finish. Not saying we're perfect. And to be sure some folks don't care about this; some do.

And it's a little confusing but these parts -- near as I can tell -- are not less expensive. Reading the fine print from the after market seller's site on the "Complete Retrofit" it says:

"When ordering two of these are needed for a complete system."

So for instance the '1-1/4" Complete Retrofit' is $129.00 x 2 = $258.00. So it's about $80 more for parts and components that are not, IMHO, as nicely crafted and that are not factory. Worst case with TK you are asked to pay $226.00 (plus shipping and handling.)

[Bigbo1234]

Thanks for responses. I've been really likeing the tk1600 but the log stops seem to be a weak point. There's a lot of side to side play in them. It's very hard to keep them lined up and square so I've got some pockets welded on at a perfect 90* to the bed to accept a 1x2 steel billet to take place Of the log stops after I open the first face with the original stops. Will, is there a reason that the stops are not tight to the pin that hold them on the mill. The wm's are much tighter and I think I'm gonna make some shims to tighten them. I can wiggle mine about 3/8" at the top of each. Anyone else have this issue?

[Ga Mtn Man]

They should be square to the bed when pushed tight by the cant. 

[redbeard]

A procedure that I have always done is check the opening face with a level in center of log also on second cut unless I turn it 180° then I will level check the third flat side. Even though the log stops are adjusted properly. It ensures me that I will have a squared cant. Just something that works well for me.