Reefer Kiln Help Needed!

JHEPP08 · October 05, 2014, 08:53:57 PM

Hello everyone! Id like to start out and say im a newbie when it comes to kilns. I recently acuired a really nice 53' reefer van trailer. i have 2 options so far with it (this is where i need your help!)

1. Build a partition wall in the trailer thinking about making enough room to have 1-2 carts with 10-12' long...
I have some fans to use for circulation but my biggest issue is heat source. Since im new i dont want to spend 6-10k starting out on a kiln unit. Id really like to have a electric heat source but i have no clue what kind or type or size to use.. I would also put a dehumidifier unit in the trailer to drain water.

2nd option is to get a logosol sauna vt5 set up. They seem to work really good and if i can load 1000-1200 board feet and hopefully run lumber through it monthly i could do that an once i get things paid for id be glad to buy a NYLE. I am currently operating off a small loan.

Little background information.. I have a woodmizer lt15 right now that ive been sawing with so im not a high production outfit but ive been working on gaining business.

Thanks in advance for all your help, this rookie needs all the help he can get!

ellmoe · October 05, 2014, 10:33:04 PM

Oh. now I understand... different reefer. I thought I was on the wrong forum! ;D

JHEPP08 · October 05, 2014, 10:38:11 PM

Haha that might be the answer to my question

thecfarm · October 06, 2014, 05:59:25 AM

JHEPP08,welcome to the forum.

scsmith42 · October 06, 2014, 10:44:00 AM

I have a Nyle kiln that is built from a shipping container. Lot's of con's to doing what you are attempting to do, and a few pro's.

What species / thickness of lumber do you want to dry? Are you planning to remove the wheelset from the reefer unit and set it down on the ground, or have it in the air?

JHEPP08 · October 06, 2014, 01:18:54 PM

Yea I have it leveled an on railroad ties. I'd small starting out I'd like to some day have a nyle . Correct me if I'm wrong I'm trying to learn here, but if I have a good heat source keeping it in the 120 range along with good fans an dehumidifier that would work right? It wouldn't be as nice obviously as a nyle.

I have a lot of walnut so far but I'm planning on doing walnut pine an eventually some other species like cherry etc .

Thanks for the response I'm open to learn as much as possible. This website is really great

never finished · October 06, 2014, 02:56:00 PM

I have a setup like what your talking about but I have only done pine in it. I really don't intend to do any thing but syp and erc in it. I'm using a central wood heater ducted into the box for heat and air movement. I also use a room dehumidifier. So far I've only done wood that was already air dried. I wanted to set the pitch and bring it on down to 7% or less, and done that in less than a week. I only built one fire in it a day. brought the box up to 150 to160 kept it there for 6 hours then let it go out. Kept the fan on the system going all the time. I don't know if that was the right way but it worked that time. Every board I tested was 7% or less. I built my partition at 17' so I could get two 8' stacks, or 1 longer stack in it at a time. I cut a 6' opening in the side of the trailer in front of the partition, and put the heater and fire wood in there. A lot of storage room left, or another kiln if I ever need it. I plan on setting it on something and building a cart, but then again, I'm Never Finished.

JHEPP08 · October 07, 2014, 11:21:50 PM

Still looking for help.. I have a 53' insulated trailer for my kiln. Starting up small but I was wondering what people use for LP heat an wood heat?

If I use wood heat... I have a wood furnace with a squirel cage blower deal on it. If I piped the heat into the chamber that'd work right?

Lp... I've looked at those garage heaters but I'm concerned on how much lp it'd burn.

Thanks in advance for any info

red oaks lumber · October 08, 2014, 05:39:06 AM

wood heat is the most economical method,ifyour duct work is well insulated going to your kiln/reefer you can make do.an upgrade would be using an outdoor wood boiler and using a heat exchanger in your kiln for heat ,very slick and easy to operate method.

scsmith42 · October 08, 2014, 10:52:34 AM

jhepp08, there is a lot of information that I can share and questions that I can answer, but I don't have enough time right now to type it all out. If you want, we can talk live one day or evening; just PM me your phone number and I'll respond with mine.

Scott

JHEPP08 · October 08, 2014, 11:02:31 PM

Thank you everyone for all your great help! I think I have a rough idea of what I need to know! Thanks again you all are great!

never finished · October 12, 2014, 05:00:49 PM

jheppo8, I got your message then lost it. I've been having major putre problems. But same as schmith42 send me your # and I'll give you a call.

scsmith42 · October 13, 2014, 01:40:00 PM

Here is a Nyle L200 available for a really good price:

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,78402.0.html

JHEPP08 · October 13, 2014, 09:11:39 PM

Thanks for the tip sir, I messaged him.

JHEPP08 · October 22, 2014, 09:55:31 PM

Still playing with my kiln setup. Got a couple questions I wanted to throw out there..

1. I'm using wood heat..
Is it better to have a wood furnance style heater, or would a simple wood stove in the chamber be enough?

A little back ground.. It's a trailer 8' wide by 16' long so it's nothing huge.

2. What kind of carts to you guys run in the trailer set up? Hard to find good pictures online

Thanks a million guys .

Ga_Boy · October 23, 2014, 06:54:42 AM

JHEPP08,

This information is based on a conventional kiln, which uses an external heat source like a water heater, boiler or outdoor wood furnace. If you can develop a way to control the amount of heat given off by a wood stove this information would apply. In a conventional kiln, you use the kiln drying schedules published by the USDA (forestry service). These schedules give the drying cycle starting temperature for the moisture content of the lumber at the start of the drying cycle.

The science behind drying wood is controlling temperature and the relative humidity inside the kiln chamber. At the start of the drying cycle the temperature is low around 110 degrees F, with a high relative humidity around 65%. With green lumber the moisture content is upwards of 50-60%. As the moisture in the wood drops, you lower the relative humidity and raise the temperature. By lowering the relative humidity and raising the temperature you drive the moisture out of the lumber and into the atmosphere of the kiln chamber.

In a typical drying cycle, the atmosphere inside the kiln is monitored and heat is added to maintain the desired temperature and the air inside the kiln is exausted to bring in dry air when the relative humidity is too high. When the relative humidity is too low, the misting system adds moisture. The typical moisture lose per day is 1-2%. If you remove more than this, you risk checking which could render the lumber unuseable. By maintaining the temperature and relative humidity at the levels in the drying schedule you do not exceed the 1-2% moisture loss per day.

The key is to control the rate at which the moisture leaves the wood. If you dry the wood too fast, you risk destroying the lumber; this is called checking. It is indicated by splits and cracks on the face of the lumber. By drying too slow, you risk mold growth which could render the lumber unusable.

I will stop here for this post to let you process this information and others to add their thoughts.

Regarding the carts, if you go to my picture gallery there are pictures of my carts, though not very detailed. I'll do a drawing of how they were constructed. The carts I used are not my design, I copied from another forum member a few years back.

Let us know if you have anymore questions.

Mark

scsmith42 · October 24, 2014, 08:42:39 AM

Mark, it's great to see you posting!

Scott

Ga_Boy · October 24, 2014, 09:26:47 AM

Thanks Scott.

Have been following your work on here. You did a nice job on those beams for the NOVA restaurant..

Ga_Boy · October 24, 2014, 10:18:16 AM

Kiln cart drawing. Let me know if you have questions.

scsmith42 · October 24, 2014, 03:48:59 PM

Quote from: Ga_Boy on October 24, 2014, 09:26:47 AM
Thanks Scott.

Have been following your work on here. You did a nice job on those beams for the NOVA restaurant..

Thanks. We ought to meet up there whenever I'm in town!

Ga_Boy · October 24, 2014, 08:13:08 PM

Sounds like a plan Scott.

Let me know the next time your are in NOVA. We'll meet for lunch.

scsmith42 · October 24, 2014, 08:17:52 PM

Quote from: Ga_Boy on October 24, 2014, 08:13:08 PM
Sounds like a plan Scott.

Let me know the next time your are in NOVA. We'll meet for lunch.

Will do! It may be as soon as the first week in November...

Ga_Boy · October 24, 2014, 08:46:36 PM

If you are here the week of November 3-7, I am teaching a class. Will not be able to get away for lunch.

If you can push you visit a week or so that would be better.

We're you able to open the word document that I posted? Is is a cross section of a kiln cart. If you were let me know if it makes sense or if I need to add more detail.

NWP · October 24, 2014, 09:18:02 PM

I assume since this is posted in the firewood section, that is what you're drying in the kiln?

I made one and put the stove inside the container and I could load it from the outside. It worked ok. If you're drying firewood, it doesn't need the controlled temps like lumber does. I could dry 6 cords in 3 days if the outside temperature was over 40.

scsmith42 · October 25, 2014, 07:24:58 AM

Quote from: Ga_Boy on October 24, 2014, 08:46:36 PM
If you are here the week of November 3-7, I am teaching a class. Will not be able to get away for lunch.

If you can push you visit a week or so that would be better.

My brother is visiting from Arizona the week of the 3-7, and we were thinking about a visit to Monticello and then heading up to check out the restaurant. Looks like we will have to meet up on a future trip.