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REVCANT - You there??  Swingmill questions.

Started by Hokiemill, August 02, 2004, 07:22:02 PM

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Hokiemill

RevCant, did you ever get any pictures of those sliding log bunks you were working on?  I did some milling this weekend and had some issues with logs moving.  Time to build some proper bunks.

I've read some previous posts on swingmill bunks, but I'd like to get an update on what you guys are using:  what size timbers, what size notches, etc.

Also, anyone doing anything creative to roll the logs onto the bunks?


woodbeard

Yes, I have created a whole new vocabulary specifically for this purpose. Unfortunately, much of it is unpronouncable, and the rest is unfit for public viewing. :D
Did you look at the bunks I made? They have been working very well. A bit of a hassle at times for keeping them from getting jammed w/sawdust, but they do hold the logs rather well.

Captain

I just got a set of Jake's "kick them so they don't roll" positive log dogs to test drive with the ASM.

Bring on the weekend.

Hokiemill

Captain,  have you had a chance to use those "kickdogs" yet?  Give us an update.  A long while back Jake posted a picture of them, but some new pictures of them in use would be nice.

Captain

Well, Randy...I've got them, but I haven't had the occasion to use them yet.....probably because the ASM has been idle. ::)

Most of my logs are 12" or greater, and I find that my traditional wood skids with square notches work fine.  Occasionally when quartersawing I have to shim the right (offcut) side to prevent rolling.For this I usually use a long tapered piece from a recent edging (I think you saw that in Richmond)

I use skids with 5" and 7" notches, one on each side.  In that way I adjust for taper when loading when necessary by flipping the skid to the appropriate notch.

Another reason for not putting them on a set of bunks yet is the fact that the metal detector will not be as effective....I tend to wait until lhe log is loaded in the mill to scan it, all sides are available then.  Believe me, I have regretted this move more than once when i gon a log in there and bunked up perfectly to find metal in the bottom or worse yet so much metal that I prefer to move it to the firewood pile.

Now that you've gone and shamed me into it, I'll try to get a picture tomorrow.

Another thing that I usually do is to put 2x6s or 8s below the skids.  It becomes easier to pry a log already in the bunks sideways slightly to bring it parallel with the rail if the bunk is sliding on the 2x and not the ground.  Even with my LogRite peavey!! ;D

Captain

NZJake

I totally prefer the straight knotched bunk system, we cut up 13 logs that were under 10" yesterday. I had no issues with them moving at all. Just some nice 10 x 10 bunks with variating sized knotches is the way to go I wrecken, no steel to strike is always a good thing.

Petersons do have log dogs but unless your doing 4" logs why would ya need them?

Hey captain, if you ever do some 4"ers and would like to try the dogs out, I'd use two sliding claws so that they spike both sides.

I'll try and get some photo's uploaded of the job we just finished and the 3 cylinder water cooled motor I put on for the weekend "just for fun". Man, after using that 10hp, we were sloggin our arses off to try and keep up with the motor! Kerris has nicknamed me madmax for puttin the engine on, hehe :).
Wife says I woke up one morning half asleep uttering thin kerf and high production, I think I need a hobby other than milling?

Ianab

Hey Jake,
Does this mean Petersons are going to come out in matt black with nifty little triangle air intakes on the engines??

For those that dont know Madmax, it was Mel Gibsons first real movie. It was low on budget but high on violence and fast car chases  8)

ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Hokiemill

Ok.  You guys have convinced me that notches alone is the way to go.  No reason to over-engineer the thing, but hey, that's what us engineers do.  Captain, 5" and 7" notches - how deep and what size bunks 8x8? 6x6?  Jake, 10x10 sounds like a huge bunk to move around, but I could probably use the exercise.

So when you vertical adjust for pith-parallel (I make up my own terminology), do you "hi-lift" the end of the log and shim under the bunk or under the log.  Seems like you would have to shim under the bunk - shimming under the log would start to negate the value of your notch.  Cranking down that end of your tracks seems easier (no, I won't let it go, will I?)

Ianab.  do we know Madmax - silly question.  Madmax is a classic the world over.  It was Mel at his best (boy his dad sure is a crazy one).

Captain

Most of my bunks are 6x6s.  Notches are 2.5" deep or so.  

Most people who have trouble with logs moving are using v grooves in their bunks.  Square is where it is at.

Captain

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