Central Boiler Door Problem

JAGIII · December 19, 2014, 07:17:57 AM

First I love my boiler! Classic 5036 purchased new in 2012
When I go to shut my door before I engage the handle to secure the top of the door touches the opening but the bottom of the door does not. So, air will seep in at the bottom of the door. I there a way to adjust the door? or hinges? so it will touch evenly when shut then use handle to secure tight?

I have tried my dealer when the first overheating started from the beginning with no avail I could not get them to come out and even take a look. They never came for a final inspection as agreed upon. I put mine in with the help of my brother who has the same unit. I have replaced the rope, another piece of the handle, adjusted the damper and now I see the main problem is this door alignment. I am going to call the Manufacture as soon as they open today. Not ranting just some background.

Thanks in advance.........

JAGIII

upsnake · December 19, 2014, 07:38:59 AM

On the e classic at least, one the hinge side of the door there is an adjustment screw for the top and the bottom.

I would assume the classic has something similar, but I will let someone more knowledgeable chime in on that.

Do you have the operators manual for your stove that might tell you how to adjust it.
If you don't have one you can go here
http://www.centralboiler.com/ownerresources.html

You will need the serial number off your stove, but you can download your owners manual.

bandmiller2 · December 19, 2014, 07:43:13 AM

Jag, sounds like ether your door or hinge is sprung, or the front of the furnace is warped. Do you know how it happened.?? I built my own door and without seeing yours its hard to recommend a fix. If your door is attached with bolts chances are you can adjust it. If the door is bent you need to remove it to be straightened. If you can find a good welder and metal worker to look at it, chances are its an easy fix for him. Good luck mate. Frank C.

Dave Shepard · December 19, 2014, 05:16:02 PM

I would have to look in my manual, but I think the doors are either identical between my 6048 and your 5036, or yours is a scaled down version. If so, the only way I could see that problem happening is if A, your door is severely warped, which is not likely, or B, one of the two hinge points on the door opening is bent. Look to see that they are both in the same position. If you have leakage, you will have serious trouble trying to keep your unit from boiling over. I had my damper stick open, and a boil over is no fun!

Dave Shepard · December 19, 2014, 06:26:59 PM

It looks like your door is a smaller version of mine. The two rollers that the latch hooks to are mounted in slots, so you could try moving those closer to the main body of the boiler. I took a shot of the hinge on mine a little while ago. I think it would be pretty hard to bend these tabs. It would almost have to be a factory misalignment, but it's worth looking at.

It should have a rod running through both hinges, but my new door didn't come with one, so I used a couple of bolts. :D

JAGIII · December 19, 2014, 08:07:03 PM

Thanks for all the information guys and suggestions. Yes, Upsnake I have a manual but appreciate the link. Central Boiler Manufacture says no adjustment on left side of door you can only move cam in or out to put more pressure on the door to close it which puts pressure in the middle. Bottom right corner is problem area.

I did get my dealer and he said that I need to make the stove higher in the front to prevent creosote from getting on my door and running down damaging the rope then leaking air. :'(He did not physically look at my stove.... Then make the stove slightly higher on the right side to produce the same thing to keep creosote from getting to that right corner. I have since jacked the stove up and accomplished this task, and replaced the rope waiting on it to cure.

I also noticed that the Creosote is running down and has eaten away at my opening thickness because of this problem. My dealer said I might need to run a weld bead down the front then grind out smooth. Wow after 3 years and every year having issues my stove will never make 25 years lol. The book said to have the stove level.

The stove has sunk and settled some since the last time I did this rope replacement in april 2013 rope hard due to creosote and this door issue. My fault for not keeping it level.

He also said that my door should not swing by itself and mine did due to leaning forward. It does not now. I also cleaned the damper and rest of the door area while stove is out all in good order.

All of this is suppose to let the door close correctly and seal the rope without further problems.....The bottom is still out some.

I cant put the pictures on here? I have photos in album but cant seem to post them?

They also said that the door would crack before it would warp :

I'll take more pictures and update tomorrow before lighting thanks again for all the information and response it truly has helped.

JAGIII

Dave Shepard · December 19, 2014, 08:21:18 PM

If you have photos in the album, click on the photo you want to put in the post, then scroll down a ways under the photo, and you will find a button that says "Add photo to post?" That will put the code for that photo in your post window.

JAGIII · December 19, 2014, 08:23:27 PM

Thanks Dave trying to get it going now.

Dave Shepard · December 19, 2014, 08:29:14 PM

Looks like you have only one roller on the side. Mine has a roller on the top and bottom. It looks like the casting on the door is thinner at the bottom.