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Planer Blade Sharpener

Started by Dewey, March 04, 2015, 07:50:53 PM

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Dewey

I am now planning my lumber with a 4 sider and would like to  sharpen my own blades....  Any recommendations ?????  I am looking at a Viel Tool Sharpener but I would like something from the U.S..
What are you guys using ???

beenthere

You are "planning" to do some planing... ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Tree Dan

I didnt think it was posible to sharpen planer blades.
You may get them sharp, but what id one end of the blade is ground more than the other.
Or even if one blade is ground more than the others :)
Wood Mizer LT40HD, Kubota KX71, New Holland LS150, Case TR270
6400 John Deere/with loader,General 20" planer, Stihl 880, Stihl 361, Dolmar 460, Husqvarna 50  and a few shovels,
60" and 30" Log Rite cant hooks, 2 home built Tree Spades, Homemade log splitter

Ianab

My DW733 has reshapenable blades. You only get a few reharps before they are ground down too much though. The blade has slotted mounting holes and you use 2 jigs to install it at the correct height. So if one blade is slightly different you have that adjustment. Unless the blades been abused it will only take a very light grind to put an edge back on. Other planers use disposable knives with no adjustment. Can't do much with those although I have heard of guys giving them a touchup with a stone or diamond plate to get a bit more life out of them.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Dewey

oooops....  yep I am planing....  good eye....
I think can sharpen these several times ... they are held in place with Gib Bolts.
I adjust there depth with a dial indicator

jdtuttle

I use a tormek sharpening system for my woodmaster & ph 260.
Have a great day

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

I have seen many homemade planer resharpening devices.  They are permanently fastened to the planer and use a small motor with a sharpening wheel.  The key is to recognize that as the wheel diameter decreases while sharpening, the knives will be longer.  We need all knives the same, so two passes, with the second being really light, are suggested.

For major sharpenings, the knives are removed.

Between sharpenings, and also to get all the knives in the same cutting circle, many planers use a light touch on the tip of the blade, called jointing.  The flat spot or "land" should never be wider than 1/32".

Because planer knife sharpening is not easy and HSS knife life is short before needing sharpening, carbide is the knife that most larger planers will use.  They also use many small knives mounted on a spiral instead of straight across...helical carbide.

Note that in many less expensive planers, the bed plate is too soft and will quickly wear, especially in the middle where most of the lumber is fed.  This wear leads to chatter when running narrow pieces.  This wear pattern is lessened by running pieces that alternately are positioned fully to the left and the fully to the right of the planer, or on a wide planer are fed in diagonally.  This provides more even wear across the bed plate and knives.

Remember that when sharpening or working on a planer, the power needs to be off at the main breaker and not just the machine's off-on power switch.  Also, if there are hydraulics, there can be residual hydraulic power that needs to be drained before work begins.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

red oaks lumber

my concern would be knives that aren't weight balanced correctly, which will take the planer head bearings out fairly quick.
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

Brian_Rhoad


WDH

This is what I used for planer and jointer knives before going to the carbide inserts.  Works great. 

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9820-2-Horizontal-Wheel-Sharpener/dp/B0000223JC
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Kcwoodbutcher

I use the Grizzly universal sharpener. It's OK for the money but there's a steep learning curve.
My job is to do everything nobody else felt like doing today

21incher

Quote from: WDH on March 06, 2015, 08:09:53 PM
This is what I used for planer and jointer knives before going to the carbide inserts.  Works great. 

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9820-2-Horizontal-Wheel-Sharpener/dp/B0000223JC

That is the same one I have and it does a excellent job on my 12 inch blades. Having the wheel flat like that keeps the blade from tapering, and being wet it does not affect the blade temper. :)
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Dewey

Will the Makita do up to a 20" Blade ???

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: Dewey on March 12, 2015, 11:14:29 AM
Will the Makita do up to a 20" Blade ???

Specs on page say: Sharpens planer blades (knives) up to 15-3/4-inches long
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Larry

Last time I took blades in to be sharpened I hung around while they did the job.  They laid the blades in a magnetic chuck preset at the correct angle.  Its easy to change if the customer requests something different.  Than they turn on the lubricant.  Its a water based emulsion.  Next the grinder comes down the track over the chuck.  The grinder looks similar to a really big router.  It runs about a 10" grindstone.  The head makes 60 passes over the knives.  Each pass removes .0005....that's half a thousandth.  It takes about 15 minutes but its all automatic and the attendant can be doing something else.  At the end the attendant inspects the knives.  They have a scale to weigh the knives to insure they weigh the same.  The scale is to impress the customer as the knives always come out the same unless something is serious wrong.  All for 70 cents an inch.  It would be hard to beat the quality/price.

I brought home an old Delta Toolmaker surface grinder a few days ago.  It would probably cost 10 grand today.  Gonna clean it up just to see what it will do.  In good condition they can do a pretty good job.

I'll still patronize the local sharpening shop.  I've spent too much time putting in knives that didn't cut as well as they should because of something I or somebody else didn't do right.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

GAB

The last quote I got for sharpening the knives in my 718 it was $5. less than for new blades.  I ordered 2 sets new blades.
Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

barbender

I have the Grizzly as well. It definitely has a learning curve, as the depth adjustment is quite coarse. Also, I use my bigger planer for mostly rough planing so I don't notice if it isn't doing a pefect job. I just know if the blades are sharp or not, and the Grizzly definitely gets them sharp.
Too many irons in the fire

Cazzhrdwd

I've got an old Newman 600. Anyone ever seen the sharpeners that Newman made for them? I'd like to find one of those. You could sharpen the blades without removing them from the head.

The helical heads Gene was talking about are real nice, but they're in the 3500 range for my planer.
96 Woodmizer LT40Super  Woodmizer 5 head moulder

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