New guy with some questions...

Kbeitz · April 16, 2015, 05:32:53 AM

I have been reading many post now for about a week. Lots to learn
I building myself a bandsaw mill and I have a few questions.
I tried looking for answers in all the post but I havent found all my answers.
First question...
Is there something you put on your blade when not in use to keep it from rusting?
My band wheels has a rubber or URETHANE tire and I would think oil might damage them.
Second question.
My mill will have mechanical blade tension (not hydrolic).
Any pointers to tell when I have the right amount of tension on the blade ?
Third question.
Does it hurt the blade to keep tension on it all the time ?

Thanks for any info.
Kevin

Andy White · April 16, 2015, 05:49:39 AM

Kbeitz,
Welcome to the forum. This is the place to come for answers. For question one, If the blade is left on the mill, the rust will be wiped off in the first few seconds of sawing the next log. I take my band off after sawing for the day, and wipe it down with a rag soaked with mineral spirits. Cuts pitch, and helps with rust.#2, My mill has a mechanical tensioner, and I tighten the blade till it has about a 1/8" deflection between the guides. Sometimes, I'll give it an extra crank if it is cutting funny. #3 Some say to slack the tension after cutting for the day. I slack mine when I break for lunch, or any extended time not sawing. Always remove it after all sawing is done for the day. This is just me, but I have good results this way. YMMV. Stay safe, and have fun!! 8) 8) 8) Andy

thecfarm · April 16, 2015, 06:52:42 AM

My band wheels have rubber on them too. I have used a half diesel and half bar and chain for about 10 years. BUT I don't saw alot either. AND it's only at a SLOW drip. And I mean slow. Just enough to keep the blade clean. A drip once every 3-4 seconds. Not really enough to spin off. I only use my lumber for building.I have no idea what effect the lube I use would have on furniture wood.
Good luck building your mill. I always push "the make it long" part. I have a manual mill that will cut 20 foot logs. I have 4 feet to put a 16 foot log on,instead of a few inches. I also have plenty of room to get the saw head out of the way too.

Chuck White · April 16, 2015, 07:49:44 AM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Kevin.

When I have my blades in storage for any amount of time, I coil them and hang them out in the open and spray them with WD-40, Liquid Wrench, or any other light spray oil.

If I'm not going to be sawing for a while, even during a lunch break, I always release the tension on the blade.

Magicman · April 16, 2015, 08:37:43 AM

I never leave a blade on overnight and as Chuck mentioned above, I also release the tension during my lunch break.

Ox · April 16, 2015, 11:43:56 AM

Suffolk Machinery has a good article, "Six Rules of Sawing". They explain in detail about doing the flutter test when tensioning blades. It might be just what you need. Even though I have a hydraulic tensioner I plan to use the recommended tension pressure and compare the quality of cut to the flutter method. I believe every blade is slightly different as well as identical model mills. That flutter test might have a lot of merit to it. I've heard with urethane tires you can use petroleum lubes without deterioration of the tires but you may have slipping issues if you use too much. Rubber or belted tires will deteriorate with petroleum lubes but only if you use too much. Everything is relative. Everything else the guys have said is spot on to everything I've learned, heard and read. If you're using a threaded tensioner I would highly recommend grade 8 hardware or acme screw and keep it well greased. Get what they call "heavy nuts" for your threaded rod or bolt. I usually stack 3 nuts together on a piece of old threaded whatever, weld them together then work at threading them off the rod then run a tap through to get the threads perfect. Welding will pull the nuts together from cooling tension and you'll chew everything up in no time if you try to force them. Acme would be the better and more expensive choice between the two. My favorite place for hardware is McMaster Carr. I usually use neversieze on often-used threads. Red grease is my choice #2. Good luck on your build, plenty of guys have done it and been successful. The guys on this forum will help, no doubt. This place is the best collection of knowledge on the internet!

Magicman · April 16, 2015, 01:23:07 PM

I tried the urethane belts with unsatisfactory results. The loose fitting B57's work fine for me. And BTW, I was going to ship those "orange" belts to another FF member and they had sorta crystallized and disintegrated.

The flutter test might work for one blade, but the next one that you put on probably will be sharpened less of more times and will be completely different. Lots of ideas look good in theory, but fall short with practicality.

Just my thoughts.

Kbeitz · April 16, 2015, 08:09:26 PM

I'm useing nuts that has 2" of threads. I'm going to put never seize on the threads.
I also bought everything I need to make or I should say weld my own blades from coil stock that I allready have.
Is there a thread started on this fourm about silver soldering baldes ?

Thanks again.
Kevin

Ox · April 17, 2015, 12:23:43 AM

Quote from: Magicman on April 16, 2015, 01:23:07 PM

The flutter test might work for one blade, but the next one that you put on probably will be sharpened less of more times and will be completely different. Lots of ideas look good in theory, but fall short with practicality.

I think this is why the flutter test intrigues me. I've never seen it in person. I can imagine each blade settling down at a different hydraulic pressure, even if it's only 10 PSI different. Maybe each blade's molecular structure is just different enough that the same hydraulic setting won't work "as good" as it could for all of the blades I might be using. Each blade might be able to be tuned "perfectly" to itself and my mill. Maybe... But then I just wake up and realize that it's been done with specified settings and tensions and it's been done this way for many years with millions and millions of board feet of lumber produced with no problems to speak of. Just something that makes me go "hmmmm...". Simple is good. I'll just crank to 2400 and be happy. ;D