Sawmill Shed

[stanwelch]

Update. Enclosed the West gable end.  8"board 3" batten. All red oak


 

[WDH]

That will be there for a long, long time.  What a great sawshed.

[Carson-saws]

Very very nice.  Obviously you are a talented Man.  Gotta ask....just how heavy were some of those flitches?...Are you going to save that rock and paint " man cave sweet man cave" on it?  Mighty nice Sir. 

[Czech_Made]

Pretty

[stanwelch]

I'm adding a 12' x 32' lean to onto each side of my sawmill shed. 
I have a question— I plan to install a 2x8 SYP board on each side of the four posts running the 32'. I'm thinking I should notch each post to support the 2x8 as shown on "B" below. Or should I install on the outside ofeach post like "A" ?

 

[K-Guy]

Really looks nice, Stan!!

If I put up something like that before I could put anything in it, I'd find my wife's car parked there.  :D

[RichTired]

Option B!

[Resonator]

B might be better, though it would take more work. How was the Marinara sauce? ???

[Walnut Beast]

Scab another 2x8 on the post underneath 

[Don P]

B or Beast  :D

[farmfromkansas]

Way I would hold the 2x8s is tack them up with nails, then drill 2 holes through and put in a couple bolts.

[Don P]

That is prohibited on inspected work. I'd think hard before hanging on bolts.

[stanwelch]

I am leaning toward the notched post and attaching the 2x8 with 4pcs of 5" timber loc screws at each post. Rafters will rest on these with a birds mouth cut

The lean to roof will be 3/12 pitch with full deck boards and metal decking. 
Rafters I'm using Are 2x8 SYP #1 on 24" centers. Each rafter is 14' long with the 12" overhang. Snow load is 25# in this area. 

Does anyone see a problem with this plan?

[Don P]

Look at both ends of the rafters, are the new rafters supported on the same beam as the existing? If so check it for the increased load.

The new beam;
looks like half the rafter + overhang=7' x11' post to post x 35 lbs per square foot=2700lbs uniformly distributed along the beam.
https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/ddsimplebeam.html
It passes at double 2x8 in #1 SYP, its right there on deflection at those spans.



 

[stanwelch]

Don, thanks for the load calculations and link. I checked the main building beam (which is a red oak 8x10) with the increased load and it passes.

Your help and expertise is much appreciated!

Stan

[barbender]

Don, what is the issue with bolts? 

[Don P]

The bearing location, where the bolt actually is in the timber, and the bearing area, the small curved surface of the bolt, and it gets into engineer land real fast. If there are 2 or more bolts across grain, say bolting a 2x12 to a post they can be no more than 5" apart to reduce drying splitting. The drawing and prohibition that pops to mind is in the deck guide, DCA6 in the awc.org website. While on that publications page I think you can also download a read only version of the NDS, all of the wood bolting rules are in there, as well as in the next chapter or so take a look at split ring and shear plate connectors, that is the real way that is done like in bolted bridge or large timber structures.

[WDH]

The Bolt Police are surely going to arrest me .

[Don P]

That would be Judge Darwin's court  .

[Ljohnsaw]

The bearing location, where the bolt actually is in the timber, and the bearing area

So a question comes to mind.  On my plans (I drew with engineer's input) I am bolting (more like a timber screw) down my 4x17 cedar beams across three sills (6x12), 12' apart to support my 4x cedar deck "boards".  The plans call out ONE stainless steel screw at each intersection of beam to sill.  One seems lacking.  Would it hurt to put more in or would that promote splitting?

Related, I planned on single beams running the width of the deck - so 32' long with a ~3' overhang on each end.  Well, finding 7 trees to make those is proving to be a challenge so I'm thinking butting two each on the middle sill (12" wide sill).  I'm planning on putting blocking at least at the 3 sills to help support (keep upright) the beams.  Would it be better to lap the beams at the middle sill so they each have a 12" perch?  The deck boards will be attached from below (pocket screws) to keep the top surface clean.

[Don P]

With your loads and on an engineered building I would defer to the engineer of record and call on them for changes. That said it sounds like in the first case the screws are simply holding the beam in place. In the second question, continuous beams have different reactions than simple beams or continuous beams over differing numbers of supports. I suspect you would be fine at 6" bearing and replacing any tension needs of those timbers with a steel strap hidden across the joint, but again, that is their call.

This is the page from DCA6 I was thinking of when I wrote about the prohibited use above;


 

Just more Sunday morning rambling,
You will find bolting schedules for things like deck ledgers where the load is hanging on the bolts. This is also one of the most frequent failure points when not followed thoughtfully. In one picture that made the rounds a builder had installed the correct number of bolts attaching a ledger to a building but had installed them all in a line that happened to be above the main nail line of the joist hangers. The deck had 40 people on it when the ledger split along the bolt line. The intact deck with joists still attached to the lower half of the ledger was on the ground, the upper half and bolts were still on the wall, 40 people went to the hospital, of course the builder not among them. The press report as always said the failure was caused by overload, the load was about 1/4 of what should have been design load, improper bolting was the culprit. anyway, round about way of saying, when you can bear wood on wood that is usually better than hanging wood from a connector. When using multiple bolts or lags think about what happens if the joint rotates as it is loaded and whether that will cause the wood to split. None of this is meant to discourage the use of any fasteners, just to think about joint design pretty carefully.

This is a short clip about split rings;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxIb_p2V-LQ&feature=emb_logo

And shear plates;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNKdiJ22gbA

[hopm]

Lotsa expertise here and I know I may be bout to unveil my ignorance but its more time and cost effective to find out on line now. I built a 20'x30' shed that I added a 20'x30" leanto  off one side. Post are 6"x 6". If I add an open cover off the post of the lean to how far can I extend cover without post? I need a minimum of 8'. I have been told I can go 12'. Also been told you can't do that. Sooooo....any input is appreciated 

[Don P]

That's gonna take a picture for me to understand.

[Walnut Beast]

Don is the man that would know 😊👍

[Dana Stanley]

B would be the way I see them do pole barns around here. I just did extensive work on one that is 40x32. Just curious though, why not stick with the same framing techniques you used on the rest of the barn?