Almost finished setting up my H126

btulloh · July 01, 2015, 01:26:52 PM

Well I'm not usually a big poster - it always falls to the bottom of the list, and my stuff's not usually that interesting. I see a lot of good info on this forum, so I see that a lot of people take the time to post things. I'll try harder to contribute, although I can't promise how interesting it will be.

My HM126 came and last week and I have the head unit all assembled. A lot of rain here to work around lately, not to mention all the usual list of chores and broken stuff to fix around here. I started setting up the track temporarily on solid blocks until I can make some cribbing and make a better foundation. I left off the extension for now, probably won't add that until I put down a better foundation. This spot has really rocky soil (more like soily rock actually) and it's annoying to set things level, although once it's done, it's pretty stable.

I can see that the lower cost of the HM126 means a lot more fussing with getting the track set up properly - and keeping it that way. I'm still thinking about the best way to make a good bed for this thing. The light track will be ok, but it's going to get jostled around a lot loading logs and turning cants. If anyone's got any good suggestions or experience let I'd love to hear. All you guys with your nice LT6000's don't have to go through this I guess.

I'm pleased with the quality of this saw for money - good fit and finish. No sharp edges, and no powder coat fouling up threads. It's a remarkably good piece of machinery for the money.

I hope to make some sawdust pretty soon. Just have to tighten up the track and tweak the setup for straight and level. We've go rain scheduled off and on through the weekend (not to mention hot dogs and hamburgers) so it's hard to say when the first sawdust will fly.

Soon.

(trying to add a couple photos, but haven't figured that out yet - in the gallery, but . . .)

Magicman · July 01, 2015, 01:31:13 PM

There you go. Your stuff is interesting too, plus your input will help someone else. 8)

dustyhat · July 01, 2015, 01:33:01 PM

Speaking of rain you must be in ky, thats all i have seen for two weeks :D just take your time and set it up right the first time, thats the best advise i can give.

btulloh · July 01, 2015, 01:38:50 PM

I'm in Virginia. We're just getting the leftover rain, so it could be worse.

That's always good advice - to set it up right the first time. I plan to cut some materials with the saw to use to set it up right. Maybe not the best idea, but it's AN idea.

dustyhat · July 01, 2015, 01:46:06 PM

If it was mine and it was going to be in a permanent spot i would get some bags of concrete and build 4 or 5 pillers about a foot tall and four feet wide to mount it to , just keep things out of the way where your walking around, Magic man is right we all like to see and read about others.

justallan1 · July 01, 2015, 02:02:13 PM

Looks like your doing it right to me. It must be nice with the adjustable feet on there. I'd set it up just enough to saw your cribbing and a couple log bunks and call it good. I would spend extra time when you go to plumb your cribbing, getting it as close to level as possible, so you don't have to have your adjustable feet out any more than absolutely necessary.

btulloh · July 01, 2015, 02:41:51 PM

The adjustable feet are nice to get a quick level on things but I think long term it's going to be best to get rid of them and go with something like Dustyhat is suggesting. Even in the Woodland Mills video you see the rails getting pushed around when rolling cants. I know when I roll a log off the forks and it hit's the supports there'll be a tendency for things to go sideways. The feet could be screwed down, but standing on those bolts eventually is going to lead to trouble. I'd like to get it so than I can just set the rails right on something and shim a little here and there. All to be worked out. It's more of journey than a destination.

It's good to hear some suggestions. Keep 'em coming.

John357 · July 01, 2015, 04:38:34 PM

I sawed about a dozen 14 inch logs over the winter and found that in the end, there was movement. I''m on 4x4 on bare ground and the ones at the front end, where the head rests most of the time, settled (dropped) enough that I noticed it, say 1/2 inch. I also noticed shifting to the side, even though I only roll my logs on by hand, no big drops. I am careful not to let the head bang on the stops when I pull it back.

I love the adjustable feet, I will adjust all the feet again for the weekend demo milling for friends/family. When I move to a permanent place, I will set it on true 6x6. Of course, a concrete pad would be best!

I only noticed the problem when I was quartersawing and getting tired of all the manual flipping that I decided to lift up the cant and turn it around. Then the unevenness was obvious.

John

John357 · July 01, 2015, 04:41:58 PM

Forgot to add, I added one length of extension (6 feet) even though I am only cutting 8 foot logs. It leaves plenty of room for the head at both the start and finish and more room for the log. Manually rolling up the logs doesn't give me a whole lot of accuracy for getting it right where i want it.

John

thecfarm · July 01, 2015, 05:23:02 PM

You will find out and learn what works for you.

Magicman · July 01, 2015, 07:55:56 PM

The neat thing is that there are several "regulars" here with the same Woodland Mills sawmill.

WDH · July 01, 2015, 10:24:33 PM

Consider putting it on a wooden frame. I did that with a LT15 and it worked perfectly. Getting the mill about knee high off the ground will save your back. Here is a pic.

In my instance, the long 2x4 on each side keeps the mill from moving off the frame. With a big log, there is a tendency for the adjustable feet to slide or "crab" when you roll on or turn a big log.

thecfarm · July 02, 2015, 07:16:06 AM

I did forget to ask,what's the plan for the lumber?

btulloh · July 02, 2015, 07:55:53 AM

Based on Dustyhat's concrete and WDH's woodframe, I'm starting to think maybe I'll make some concrete piers supporting a wood frame. The 2x4's on the side to limit lateral movement would solve some problems. I'm a little concerned about wood movement on the frame since this will be out in the open for a good while. I guess I could put anchors in the piers to help minimize issues.

In response to Thecfarm's question about plans for the lumber: I come across good logs with interesting grain and figure that I will use for my woodworking disease. Also I have a lot of blow-down white pine and short leaf pine every year that just goes to waste which I plan to mill and use for various things. I also end up with good white oak, red oak, and chestnut oak blow downs or that are just in the way of something. That stuff I'll mill and use for out buildings. During an average year I take down quite a few sweet gums for one reason or another. I'd like to find a way to use sweet gum instead of chipping it up or letting it rot. I've heard of people using it for siding. I'm going to mill some and see what happens.

But mostly I've had a sawmill bug ever since I was a sprout. I grew up playing around sawmill sites, building stuff with slabs, and what not. I know people who have old (working) sawmills set up just for historical interest. I have always wanted to do some milling just because. When I found out about these hobby mills it seemed like the right way to stick my toe in the water. Maybe I'll move up to a bigger mill sometime, or maybe not.

btulloh · July 02, 2015, 08:35:04 AM

I cut down a pretty good short leaf pine the other day thinking it would be a good first log. About 17" DBH. Pretty straight, but not straight as an arrow. First limb at 40 feet. Of course it's pitch city, so I was thinking there might be some advice about pine logs. Could I let 'em sit for a while to help reduce pitch issues? Better to cut 'em down in the winter? ( I don't plan to do much felling in the summer anyway.) I was surprised to see that about half the diameter was heart. I only looked at the butt so far so I don't know how much heart I've got going up, but I would think a lot. This would be a good log for lightwood (fatwood some call it).

Magicman · July 02, 2015, 08:40:21 AM

Quote from: btulloh on July 02, 2015, 08:35:04 AMThis would be a good log for lightwood (fatwood some call it).

No not really because there is to much moisture. "Fatwood" has "cured" for years. It sounds like your log will make good lumber. Oh, and congrats on getting that "first log" !!

btulloh · July 02, 2015, 08:54:16 AM

I usually just pick it up off the ground after everything has rotted away except the heart. Wouldn't start a fire without it.

So you're saying just go ahead and mill the pine, pitch and all? I read on here that putting a little Pinesol in the lube tank will help.

Magicman · July 02, 2015, 09:00:12 AM

There are many different formulas (concoctions) used and everyone seems to have their favorite. Personally, I use 2oz. (one glug) of liquid Cascade per gallon of water.

My preference is to saw logs after they have been felled for several months. The pitch has hardened a bit and is not so runny and sticky. Since I only custom saw, I do not get that choice and saw whatever the customer has.

btulloh · July 02, 2015, 09:19:46 AM

Good advice. Waiting for a couple months sounds good since I have the option. I hate pitch and fresh pitch must be even worse. I saw where someone recommended mayonnaise for cleaning up pitch. Don't know about that one. I soak my circular blades in a bath of baking soda to remove hardened pitch, but that's a different animal. Works well though.

What gauge tubing did you use on your log arch? I'm going to make one like yours, but I'll probably scale it down just a little bit.

fishfighter · July 02, 2015, 09:26:22 AM

Congrads on the new mill. Got the same one. Got it back in Feb of this year. The way I had set mine up was on some 6x6 oak timbers. Take the time to screw the adjustable feet down to the timbers or you going to knock it off. Don't ask me how I know. :-[ Screw all timbers together too.

Here is a couple pictures of how I did it. Saw dust, well, I found that helps lock everything together. ;D

gww · July 02, 2015, 09:32:58 AM

I like it.
gww

Magicman · July 02, 2015, 09:40:12 AM

Quote from: btulloh on July 02, 2015, 09:19:46 AMWhat gauge tubing did you use on your log arch?

I just used what I had that was free. My tongue was re-used outriggers and probably 1/8". The frame was a re-used shipping pallet and probably ¼".

btulloh · July 02, 2015, 09:57:28 AM

Free is my favorite kind of material, but I'm probably going to have to buy some tubing for this. I've got to locate some hubs and wheels hopefully at the free or almost-free price. Thanks Magicman.

Nice looking setup, Fishfighter. I was thinking about a little saw barn home for the head unit like you've got. Are your posts set in the ground or are you using gravity?

azmtnman · July 02, 2015, 10:28:21 AM

Quote from: btulloh on July 02, 2015, 08:35:04 AM
Could I let 'em sit for a while to help reduce pitch issues?

I have been cutting dead ponderosa pine (some dead for a while) and have always had pitch buildup. I have yet to use blade lube. I have found when I have build up on the blade to slow down and let the cutting "grind" it off. That may be unorthodox but it's working for me. I was also told a light touch to a spinning blade (from the back side, of course) with a file made quick work of pitch build up.

fishfighter · July 02, 2015, 01:15:43 PM

Quote from: btulloh on July 02, 2015, 09:57:28 AM
Free is my favorite kind of material, but I'm probably going to have to buy some tubing for this. I've got to locate some hubs and wheels hopefully at the free or almost-free price. Thanks Magicman.

Nice looking setup, Fishfighter. I was thinking about a little saw barn home for the head unit like you've got. Are your posts set in the ground or are you using gravity?

Gravity. That way I can move it with no problem. The building has to be no less then 9' wide so you can cut from inside the building, on out.