My Hydraulics

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Had just finished the last edging on a Cedar Job this afternoon.

BAM....HD went stone cold dead.
Called WM and together we went through the trouble shoot.

Conclusion, the solenoid went bad and possibly the micro switch. They are shipping me new parts now and will be here Monday. Simple fix.

My question.....what causes a solenoid to go bad?  say_what

Thanks Woodmizer!


 

[snowshoveler]

In my world of lawn and garden equipment.
A solenoid failure is almost always caused by a low voltage condition.
Check grounds first and go to battery and alternator next.
Regards Chris

[bkaimwood]

Typically, solenoids fail due to their own design, in other words failed contacts, or open windings....but I think I know what your thinking...what is the root cause of the problem,  the one that caused the solenoid failure? In most solenoid failures, there is none...I wouldn't sweat it for now...

[Nomad]

     Which solenoid?  They do give it up.  Last one I had go out had a wire break internally and it worked when it felt like it.  Gave me fits for a couple of weeks before I finally found it.  These are not the most robust solenoids on the planet.
     It is possible it's the switch, but that would be easy to troubleshoot.  just jumper around it. 

[Kbeitz]

Most of the time a solenoid quits because the copper bar wears down so it does not touch the two lugs anymore.



 

[kenlt30]

The diode on my hydraulics solenoid went bad, allowed current to flow both ways. Disconnecting the diode is a temporary fix after replacing the switch. Shorted diode fries the switch.

[Kbeitz]

Diodes are cheap... Put one like this on it and you wont need to do it again...



 

[Magicman]

The diode shown above does not apply to the solenoid in question.

David, be sure that your contact strip is clean and shiny and the contactor is moving freely against the spring and is not badly worn.  Also your ground contact on the bottom rail.  Without good contact in both locations means low voltage and high amperage which will put a real strain on both the solenoid and your hydraulic pump motor.  Since you had a hydraulic motor failure in the not too distant past, I would really look closely at both of these contactors.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

The diode shown above does not apply to the solenoid in question.

David, be sure that your contact strip is clean and shiny and the contactor is moving freely against the spring and is not badly worn.  Also your ground contact on the bottom rail.  Without good contact in both locations means low voltage and high amperage which will put a real strain on both the solenoid and your hydraulic pump motor.  Since you had a hydraulic motor failure in the not too distant past, I would really look closely at both of these contactors.

Good advice. 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

I am getting good voltage going to the solenoid. Then I crossed the 2 large connectors and the motor ran strong.
I will check everything from strip to ground. Even if thats not the problem, it will not be a bad idea to clean things while waiting on a part or 2.


Is there a Solenoid compatible at O'Riley's, Auto Zone or Advanced Auto?

[YellowHammer]

I am getting good voltage going to the solenoid. Then I crossed the 2 large connectors and the motor ran strong.
I will check everything from strip to ground. Even if thats not the problem, it will not be a bad idea to clean things while waiting on a part or 2.


Is there a Solenoid compatible at O'Riley's, Auto Zone or Advanced Auto?

Make sure you check the voltage drop across the main terminals while under load.  Also, check the trigger voltage before and under load.  Many times that is the culprit, causing a little chatter.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

I am getting good voltage going to the solenoid. Then I crossed the 2 large connectors and the motor ran strong.
I will check everything from strip to ground. Even if thats not the problem, it will not be a bad idea to clean things while waiting on a part or 2.


Is there a Solenoid compatible at O'Riley's, Auto Zone or Advanced Auto?

Make sure you check the voltage drop across the main terminals while under load.  Also, check the trigger voltage before and under load.  Many times that is the culprit, causing a little chatter.

I'm learning. Thanks YH

[WV Sawmiller]

David,

   May be different issue than yours but I had intermittent hydraulics failure and had to keep moving the head till I found a live spot on the strip. Was a real PITA. I had sanded down burnt spots from arcing (Caused by me moving the head while working hydraulics before I knew better), sanded the bottom rail and coated everything in dielectric grease. None of these tips worked well. Called WM electrician and he was almost brusque in telling me to move the contactor over 1/16" of an inch closer to the strip. I did and it has worked perfectly ever since.

    Good luck.

[Kbeitz]

The diode shown above does not apply to the solenoid in question.

David, be sure that your contact strip is clean and shiny and the contactor is moving freely against the spring and is not badly worn.  Also your ground contact on the bottom rail.  Without good contact in both locations means low voltage and high amperage which will put a real strain on both the solenoid and your hydraulic pump motor.  Since you had a hydraulic motor failure in the not too distant past, I would really look closely at both of these contactors.

Why does a solenoid even need a diode ?

[Magicman]

The solenoid has a small diode across the primary to prevent arcing and increase the life of the microswitch.

[Kbeitz]

The solenoid has a small diode across the primary to prevent arcing and increase the life of the microswitch.

Ok... Got it...
What you need is a  Zener diode.

[danreed76]

Must be something in the air... I went out to fire the lt-40 up yesterday and halfway through bringing the loading arms up it went quiet.  Got the meter out and found the solenoid wasn't closing.  I had one in the tool room, as I have slowly collected some of the "recommended spares".

[Magicman]

Yup, I replaced a solenoid a couple of months ago.  A couple of spares are always in the truck.   ;D

[Dave Shepard]

If it's the solenoid near the battery box, you can move the left cable to the right lug to bypass the solenoid. Your hydraulics will be live whenever the head is on the strip, even if the key is off. If you lose the one (or two on Supers) in the hydraulic box, you could steal the one in the fuse box, and bolt the two cables together in place of the solenoid. Not ideal, but would get you through a job in an emergency.

[Magicman]

Good point Dave for a get-by fix.

The older non-SuperHydraulic LT40's did not have that solenoid beside the fuse box and the hydraulics are hot any time that the head is on the contact strip. 

Just curious, are the newer non-SyoerHydraulic LT40's equipped with this solenoid?

[Dave Shepard]

The '99 standard hydraulic at work has the solenoid in the fuse box by the battery.

[Magicman]

OK, then it is probably a feature from then on.  WM made many upgrades in mid 1998 that carry through to today's version.

[red]

Sawyer has way to much Voltage. . .needs to be better Grounded.  . that's what I was told many times.. happy turkey day

[slider]

David i don't think you will find that solenoid at the local parts house.I did some research on line and found that wm was about the same price as others.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

David i don't think you will find that solenoid at the local parts house.I did some research on line and found that wm was about the same price as others.

Thanks Al.