Back at the homemade sawmill video added

[Georgia088]

I found one from a buddies "junk pile". I'll try and post pictures of what we came up with. We used a pillow block bearing connected to a 4x4 stud trailer axle that is attached in front of the tire. On the other side I just used the same 4x4 axle that goes through what I call a "wheel bearing" not sure of correct names of any of this stuff. This is just what I had or found.
Good news is I was able to put MUCH more tension on the blade AND it tracked on the tires. First for this. After seeing I could get it to track, i Only ran it twice with all this attached. The first time the axles weld broke lose from where I cut it off and cut too much out of it.  I welded it back and tried to cut one more time before dark: it tracked fine until I tried to enter the log in the same cut area as before. This caused the blade to bend with the teeth upward and it came off the front. Darkeness got me after that.  I think we may be on to something, but going to take some fine tuning. Let me know what you think is going to screw up next lol. Thanks!

[gww]

I wish it hadn't have got dark on you.  If you mess with it tomorrow, I hope it goes well and you give us some type of report.  It sounds some better already.  If it was close it might not take much.  I would only want the blade tight enough to cut strait and no tighter.  I did notice on the one picture that I could barily see the tire, it seemed your teeth tips were touching the tire.  What pressure are you running in the tire.  I run 37 lbs but would not be afraid to go more.  I also (if the teeth are buried) might take some rubber off if my blade started diveing.  It might be an optical elussion and if it works well, I touch nothing.
Hope to hear more. Too early to tell about your second cut.  Could have been a fluke.
Good luck
gww

[Georgia088]

Well didn't have as much time to fool with the saw, but I did piddle with it a little. I tightened same blade that ran off yesterday (which now has a small kink in it) on the mill. It will definitely tighten more and track now that I have the front bar support. I Tried to cut in a completely different spot on the log than yesterday when it ran off. As soon as I entered the log, the blade started pointing teeth up and then ran off the mill to the front.

I decided it had to either be the blade or the guides. I checked my guides. They were off a pretty good bit. I guess somehow in all the changing to put the front bar on. My adjustments got off... I got the guides adjusted back right again.

I kept the same blade on and cut a whole log with no issues at all. Boards seemed really straight. Blade tracked great. Didn't see any signs of the blade dulling. I didn't cut any more than one log because I don't have any near the mill, but I am very happy for the time being. I hope this was the adjustment I needed to make it work like I want.
It will probably be a couple of weeks before I get to cut again, but for the time being I am pleased. Thanks everyone. I will let you know how it does the next time I cut.

[Ocklawahaboy]

I am impressed. 

[gww]

G
I am really happy for you.  You just did the experment that convinces me that when I put the new motor on mine I need to also adress mine in some way like you did.  I always knew I was on the edge but you have convinced me that it is worth while to do.  I can't thank you enough for taking the time to tell us how it went.  No matter what, you can tell it is some better and so it wasn't a wasted effort.
Thanks
gww

[Georgia088]

Thanks Guys.  I really do appreciate all the help.  I'm sure I will be back on here asking for advice before long. 
Gww
Let us know how the new motor works out for you.   If you decide to add the support bar across the front also let us know how it does.
I wish I had found that 18hp for that price when I was building. 

Good Luck!

[Georgia088]

Just thought I would post an update. I have cut a few more logs since I put the support on the front of my mill that keeps it from flexing. So far, good results (knock on wood). I am using the same blade. It has lasted through several logs. I know that doesn't sound like much to most of you, but before I was able to tighten the blade up good. I would only get 6-8 cuts before it would start getting wavy. Now I have probably gotten 10 times that many and the blade still seems fine. I hope it continues going well, but I just wanted to post an update. Maybe it will help someone else out as much as yall have me.
Thanks.

[gww]

Cool
gww

[bkaimwood]

G...glad to hear you made some improvements and had a good day sawin' up that log..
Joe...never saw, or even thought of running a drive belt right to the tire, the same one the blade runs on...and it works!!! Hats off, nice job!!

[Georgia088]

The way I would make them is to remove your hubs and mount the up in a lathe chuck.
That would let you center everything up.
We cant post ebay listing here but a few people
make up brackets like this and sell them on ebay...

example



 

Hey Kbeitz, 
you posted this a long time ago, but any idea what I would search for to find this on ebay?

[Kbeitz]

? Was this for tractor wheel weights?

[Georgia088]

hmmm.  that would make sense.  I was looking for it to attach to the front of my mill to put a bar across the tires to prevent it from flexing due to the tension of the blade.  I ended up using an axle off of a trailer, but the bearing has gone bad.  I was looking for them on ebay, but Im having a hard time finding on ebay.  I could weld them, but I may have to find someone locally to turn them on a lathe.

[Georgia088]

Well, now that I have my power feed working like I would like from the other tread (thanks for all of y'alls help). And also the winch motor raises and lowers the head like I would like also.

However, I broke a bearing on the bar that goes across the front to keep my mill from flexing.  I am currently using small HF cheap trailer tires, but I think I am about to bite the bullet and change to the surplus center 18.75 OD 1-7/16 Bore  (1-BK190-J). I plan on still using the rear end off of my golf cart setup.  I'm going to mount the 1-7/16 shaft to a four lug hub and attach it to the golf cart hub with the lug nuts.  I will probably have to get it turned on a lathe to make it true.  I will then put a pillow block bearing on front of the wheel. 

on the non drive side I am going to use two pillow block bearings with the 1-7/16 bore.  One bearing will be behind the surplus center wheel, and the other will be in front.  I will then add a bar across the front like I currently have to help prevent anything from flexing. 

I am going to get the pillow block bearings and wheels from surplus center, and I am going to have to buy the B56 or B57 belts (Ive read the debate and don't know which one I will use) to put on the pulleys. 

What am I missing?

Aren't these the same wheels from the surplus center that many users have had success with?

Standard cold roll should be sufficient for the "axles" if I put a bar across the front for support don't you think?  I will have to machine a key way in if I use standard cold roll?

Is the B56 or B57 belt something I can buy from an autoparts store locally? or are there different widths for blades?

Thanks!

[Kbeitz]

Putting a bar across the front might make for some exciting tracking adjustments.

[Georgia088]

When you say "exciting" what do you mean?

[Kbeitz]

When you say "exciting" what do you mean?

How will you tilt or track the shaft with a bearing holding both
ends of the shaft?

[coach08]

Hey kbeitz.

We're still trying to figure out exactly how we will tilt and toe the wheels to get the blade to track.  We have looked at your drawing and pictures, but still don't understand exactly how it works.  Do you have any other pictures that you could post?  I have looked at all of the pictures in your gallery.

I have also seen this thread (New member, odd bandmill build. in Sawmills and Milling).  I don't understand how he plans to tension or adjust his tracking either.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

[Kbeitz]

The big box on the bottom is welded to the small square on top.
The square on top fits between the other two squares. It fits loose.
On the first picture on the right you can see two little squares welded
to the tubing. That lets it swivel when I tighten the adjust screw.
Works great.



 



 

[Georgia088]

So, is the big box in your picture that the two pieces of tubing sit on welded to the mill on the side? And then you have a threaded plate welded on it to push the tubing for your toe in?

To tension your blade, you tighten the nut, this pushes the horizontal bar that touches the two pieces of square tubing, how does this pull the wheel out to tighten the blade? I'm obviously not looking at this right.

Thanks

[coach08]

The bar across the front of the wheels has worked very well for us.  We can put as much tension on the rubber tires  as they will take and not "flex"  towards the front.  Cant think of any reason that it wouldn't work for steel wheels.  It really doesnt affect the adjustment except to make the front rigid once adjustments have been made because of the way bar is made.  Its not a solid bar.  It is two pieces with a  threaded rod in betweeen that can be adjusted just like a toe in adjustment.  It will only do toe out as it only does outward pressure.   In my thinking, (oh boy this should be good).   it should work on any wheels or tires  and not have to have a huge shaft. Thinking the pressure would be distributed between back of shaft and bar on front.  Hope this made a little sense, and hope my attachment made it.  My two cents worth.  Now, a penny for your thoughts!



 

[Kbeitz]

This is the box sitting on the machine looking at from the back.
The band wheel is on the other side. Does that help?



 

[Georgia088]

 

 

This is the pic coach is referring to. Also, kbeitz I've looked at that pic but I still can't figure out exactly what's going on.

[Georgia088]

Here is another example of the bar on the front.  I don't know how he does his adjustments either though.... Maybe it's like coach says you do the adjustments and then put your bar on the front to prevent flexing.???



Here is the tread... My simple homemade bandsaw mill in Sawmills and Milling

[Georgia088]

Ok. Thinking I'm going to rebuild my mill with surplus supply's. Bearings in old golf cart are just causing too many problems now. They worked well for a while though. My question:

Surplus surplus sales the 1-7/16 bore pulleys and pillow block bearings, but they don't sale the shaft that size. They sale it 1-1/2" with keyway. Can I have a machine shop turn down a 1-1/2" shaft to 1-7/16? Would this be a problem?

Thanks!

[Kbeitz]

Very easy to do if the shaft isn't hardened. Take a file with you and see if you can file it. If you can then it can be machined. Hardened shafts can be ground to size needed but that would be expensive to have done.