Author Topic: 49 foot beam on a 21 foot bed? (Read 2644 times)

OlJarhead · « **on:** April 06, 2016, 12:29:08 PM »

OK guys, here is a question: Would you attempt to rip a 6x24x49' down to two 6x12x49's on an LT40?

Not sure I want to (actually I really don't but then I'm always up for a challenge).

The guy has two 6x24" glulams that are 49 feet long and he'd like to rip them down to 6x12's. He was thinking that if we cribbed up the end off the mill and ripped 20 feet down, wedged the cut, drew the head back and then pushed the beam down along the bed another 20 feet and ripped some more until it was done that it might work. I'm skepticle as it seems like it would take an awful lot of work just to rip them in half -- a chainsaw mill might be a better option.

Guy also has some 4x12 and 8x8's that are 18 feet long and wants them ripped also so I'm ok with those but the 49 footers have me scratching my head.

Thoughts?

OlJarhead · « **Reply #1 on:** April 06, 2016, 12:44:44 PM »

Just realized that a 12" cut is too deep for the LT40 I think. If I'm not mistake 8" is max depth. If that's the case this is a non-starter

I'll do the rest though

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #2 on:** April 06, 2016, 12:47:33 PM »

Take off the board return & 12" should be easy. On mine about 11" with the board return and almost 14" without it.

OlJarhead · « **Reply #3 on:** April 06, 2016, 12:58:03 PM »

Oh sure, now I have to consider it again!

OlJarhead · « **Reply #4 on:** April 06, 2016, 01:38:52 PM »

I know Peter has done logs longer than a 21 foot rail...maybe I saw a pick of doing a log 24 feet long....but doing one 28 feet longer than the bed? Anyone ever try this? Also, in this case it's a beam and doesn't need to be rolled. Just ripped down the center and removed.

Chuck White · « **Reply #5 on:** April 06, 2016, 01:48:16 PM »

I wouldn't hesitate on my mill, I have 15+ inches from the blade to the top of the throat!

OlJarhead · « **Reply #6 on:** April 06, 2016, 01:49:40 PM »

Quote from: Chuck White on April 06, 2016, 01:48:16 PM

I wouldn't hesitate on my mill, I have 15+ inches from the blade to the top of the throat!

OK but what about the 49 foot length?

Chuck White · « **Reply #7 on:** April 06, 2016, 01:59:21 PM »

Make sure you don't have anything in the way, forward and aft of the mill!

You don't need to cut all that far before sliding the beam.

Devise a means of supporting the extra length hanging off past the end of the mill.

I think I would start with the end toward the hitch resting on the forward swinging bunk, and cut to about half way between the 3rd and 4th bunks, disengage the blade and back the sawhead back to the forward swinging bunk then slide the beam forward to just about touch the blade, clamp the beam in place and repeat.

OlJarhead · « **Reply #8 on:** April 06, 2016, 02:04:46 PM »

Quote from: Chuck White on April 06, 2016, 01:59:21 PM

Make sure you don't have anything in the way, forward and aft of the mill!

You don't need to cut all that far before sliding the beam.

Devise a means of supporting the extra length hanging off past the end of the mill.

I think I would start with the end toward the hitch resting on the forward swinging bunk, and cut to about half way between the 3rd and 4th bunks, disengage the blade and back the sawhead back to the forward swinging bunk then slide the beam forward to just about touch the blade, clamp the beam in place and repeat.

Thanks -- so don't cut 20 feet. I get it I think -- easier to back out of 6-8 feet with wedges than to do so for 20 feet. Makes sense.

Chuck White · « **Reply #9 on:** April 06, 2016, 02:11:20 PM »

Keep us posted on this.

My thinking is if you cut to far, it'll have more tendency to move on you.

Anyone else have ideas, don't hesitate to jump in!

ScottInCabot · « **Reply #10 on:** April 06, 2016, 02:15:22 PM »

Why couldn't you start the cut, say ten feet of it, then wrap something around the cut end to slow feed the remaining part through the running saw head? pull it through....

I have no idea if this is bad or not, but I'm probably about to find out here......

Scott in Cabot

OlJarhead · « **Reply #11 on:** April 06, 2016, 02:17:33 PM »

I think it would be too hard on the head to do that. Better to reset and move the beam I think. Will be a challenge! 24" tall 6" wide beam might want to move when unclamped but I'm hoping with patience it's possible.

I told the guy I'd mill the small stiff (8x8x18') first

Chuck White · « **Reply #12 on:** April 06, 2016, 02:30:48 PM »

Scott, just have to keep in mind that these are manufactured beams and not just flat material.

I think it would be hard to control it if it decided to tip, when you were part way through the cut.

If it was flat material, such as plywood or OSB, it would work just fine, put the log stops all the way up and bring the clamp in tight enough to "just" allow it to slide through.

Thanks for the additional input, that's what this place is all about!

Ga Mtn Man · « **Reply #13 on:** April 06, 2016, 03:01:59 PM »

I've done this but it was only 38' long. I'd divide it into three cuts so you only have to move it twice. Make sure you don't move the head UP/DN between cuts. Use your toe rollers to help move the beam. Make sure it's laying flat on all the bunks...you will have to raise or lower the ends to take the bow out of the beam.

OlJarhead · « **Reply #14 on:** April 06, 2016, 03:28:24 PM »

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on April 06, 2016, 03:01:59 PM

I've this but it was only 38' long. I'd divide it into three cuts so you only have to move it twice. Make sure you don't move the head UP/DN between cuts. Use your toe rollers to help move the beam. Make sure it's laying flat on all the bunks...you will have to raise or lower the ends to take the bow out of the beam.

I was thinking about using the toe boards/rollers but with the band in the cut that will put some tension on it when raising the toe boards so wasn't too sure how it would go.

derhntr · « **Reply #15 on:** April 06, 2016, 03:55:38 PM »

raise your toe boards first before starting cut Grasshapper

OlJarhead · « **Reply #16 on:** April 06, 2016, 03:57:54 PM »

Quote from: derhntr on April 06, 2016, 03:55:38 PM

raise your toe boards first before starting cut Grasshapper

Hmmm.....so you're saying to raise the toe boards (maybe an inch each?) and leave them raised the whole time? Hadn't thought of that! Should work much better though I better make sure they are the same height exactly or things could get ugly

GAB · « **Reply #17 on:** April 06, 2016, 04:42:48 PM »

I've never been accused of being too bright, but what I would try would be to set the piece to be sawed on the bed rails and supported at least two places beyond the end of the mill. Then saw until just past the second toe roller, then somehow lock the head in position and slowly push the beam through with the running saw.
As the piece is being pushed somehow support the end as it protrudes past the hitch. You will need to somehow keep the beam level to get a nice cut.
Gerald

derhntr · « **Reply #18 on:** April 06, 2016, 04:52:37 PM »

Raise them just high enough to be able to roll the beam. I have never done on that long though. As others have said will need end supports. I have command control on end so would be hard for me to feed off forward end of saw. I wish you luck and look forward to seeing photos.

OlJarhead · « **Reply #19 on:** April 06, 2016, 05:01:53 PM »

I suggested the customer get some cribbing that we can build up on both ends of the mill and out far enough to support the log. He also has a tractor with forks but I don't like that option. Better to crib and shim so it's level all the way with no bow I think.

We shall see! I have ordered some Bi-Metal blades so I'll have them for burned trees as well as beams.

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Author Topic: 49 foot beam on a 21 foot bed? (Read 2644 times)

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