iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Soap Finish?

Started by lowpolyjoe, August 13, 2016, 08:43:42 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

lowpolyjoe

I just got a woodworking magazine and there's an article about a finish made from soap flakes and water.  I only skimmed it so far, but was wondering if anyone on this forum has tried it?   

I would like to try it but I think it said that it needs constant maintenance (every few months) and I know I'm never going to want to do that  :D

Bark Beetle

I bet it would work great for a soap dish ;D
You don't work wood, you work with wood.

Dan_Shade

I saw an article on soap finishes a while back, it may be popular in Europe.   

It looked like it would require more maintenance than wax.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

lowpolyjoe

Quote from: Dan_Shade on August 14, 2016, 07:12:47 AM
I saw an article on soap finishes a while back, it may be popular in Europe.   

It looked like it would require more maintenance than wax.

Yeah, the article says it's a traditional finish from Denmark for floors and furniture.  I'm shocked you can use it on floors - how can it not get slippery when wet?

Quote from: Bark Beetle on August 13, 2016, 11:17:34 PM
I bet it would work great for a soap dish ;D

:)

LeeB

I never tried it but from what I have read it is a temporary finish and requires re-applying often. Not as much protection as wax, which offers little protection itself. I seem to remember that the slippery when wet issue is indeed a problem.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Lud

I tried this 4-5 years ago for turnings.  Used two of the great,big, rope handle tubs. Filled about halfway with liquid soap and water, put the green turned bowl in (which tries to float) and put the 2nd tub on top to submerge it and added bricks to hold it down.  Waited a week or so , washed off the outside and let dry.  It did not crack!

However, I wasn't impressed with the color shift or general feel.  Interesting but not worth pursuing IMHO. A bowl for food soaked in soap might give you a flavor you wouldn't want, y'know?
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

lowpolyjoe

Thanks Lee and Lud for more info.  I was briefly thinking about tracking down the recommended type of soap at a health food store and giving this a shot, but after further consideration I don't think I'm going to bother. 

Carson-saws

tung...tounge...ahh heck...how ever ya spell it, either way...tong, tung, tounge OIL works real nice
Let the Forest be salvation long before it needs to be

Lud

For turnings I use mineral oil and beeswax  while the piece is on the lathe. real slow speed and oil soaked rag in both directions as my lathe has a reverse.  Then hold the wax to the piece, again in both directions to force the wax down in the pores,  Then a nylon scrubber to mix the materials and I use a bit higher speed and pressure to generate some heat for penetration,  both directions, of course.  Then a wad of oil/wax soaked Tshirt and speed it up to buff- both directions, maybe 500.

I can finish a piece in less time than it took to write this. All this stuff fits in a cookie tin and the lid keeps the chips out.  Food safe finish, easily freshened with vegetable oil, cheap and effective. 8)
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

Thank You Sponsors!