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CS 590 Chain Brake

Started by luvmexfood, October 21, 2016, 12:06:12 AM

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luvmexfood

Is there a trick to reassembling the chain brake on this saw. Had a tree that was bad in the middle kick over sideways. One of those that was basically forget the saw and run. The tree landed on the saw breaking the brake handle and saw handle. Had to take the brake assembly apart to get the brake to release and now can't get it back together. Spring is just to tight and I lost a plastic bushing that goes on the end of the spring. Have new handles and will have to order the bushing. Eightynine cent part and probably 15 dollar shipping.

Any suggestions. Could any other parts been damaged not allowing it to go back together?
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

thecfarm

Those springs are kinda hard to open up when not on the saw. Probably the spring brake is on. How much of the brake handle is there? I wonder if you put it in a vise and give it a try.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

ladylake


If its a compression spring try putting some wire through it then compress it in a vice and tie the wire which should keep it compressed. Then snip the wire after in place. Never worked on one so really don't know.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Gearbox

Just did that on a 359 you have to take the clutch off , put the cover on , release the brake and reassemble . Or you could take it to the local saw shop they may have a striped frame to do it for you .Clutch is left hand thread , use a punch .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

SawTroll

Quote from: Gearbox on October 21, 2016, 10:28:06 AM
Just did that on a 359 you have to take the clutch off , put the cover on , release the brake and reassemble . Or you could take it to the local saw shop they may have a striped frame to do it for you .Clutch is left hand thread , use a punch .

I suspect it was a somewhat different problem you solved there - like taking the clutch cover off with the brake engaged, on an outboard clutch saw?

As far as I know the Echo has an inboard, so an engaged brake band will make it hard to get the clutch drum off - but maybe not impossible?

On your Husky there is a simpler way, forcing the tree pronged metal "star" that engages the brake handle over, to release the brake - but I don't know if something similar is possible on the Echo.
Information collector.

wolf nemeth

hey Mex     where did you buy  your front handle?  I have the same saw and crushed my handle yesterday. Ebay has a new one for almost a hundred bucks, but a Shindaiwa handle  looks identical for  less than half the price...
   hope you get that spring problem solved.....
If you  don't know where you're going, you'll probably end up somewhere else!

ladylake

  Online and most likely at a dealer brand new front handles cost $41 for the CS590 plastic  and $62 for the Cs600p  metal.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

luvmexfood

I don't remember the name where I ordered. Somewhere in Minn. I think. If it's broke down on the bottom where it flattens out and screws to the saw I have a pretty good fix. I cut a 3/32 piece of metal out of an old door kickplate. Just wide enough to go under the handle where it screws into the saw and long enough to extend a couple of inches past the break. Mark and drill two holes for the screws that screw into the saw. Then drill a couple of holes past the break in the handle that you can get a couple of small bolts thru. Then put JB weld on the metal and attach the handle base to the saw and run some bolts thru the holes. I used a metal hose clamp to hold the metal to the saw handle out past the break. Let dry good and I just left the hose clamp in place. Metal splint has to go under the handle where it screws into the saw.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

leec

Quote from: wolf nemeth on October 29, 2016, 06:14:13 AM
hey Mex     where did you buy  your front handle?  I have the same saw and crushed my handle yesterday. Ebay has a new one for almost a hundred bucks, but a Shindaiwa handle  looks identical for  less than half the price...
   hope you get that spring problem solved.....

I have a metal top handle from a CS4400 you could have for the postage if it would fit.

Lee

John Mc

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