sawing logs

[coxy]

 going to be new to sawing so please bear with me  I'm shur this has been asked a million times  would it be better to turn all the logs and  saw from the small end first  I know some  people take a little bit at a time  i have seen people take 2-3-4 cuts before ever getting a complete slab  jmop but seems like a lot of wasted gas and blade doing it that way why not just take a full slab from the start  i under stand on a long log to take a few cuts but on an 8fter what do you do with a 3-4ft piece of soft wood lumber

[Magicman]

Except for oversized logs, I prefer to enter the small end, but in reality, I saw them the way the customer has them stacked. 

[dgdrls]

Small end start for me that usually controls what the log will give me

Once you make a cut its doesn't go back on very easy :D

The short stuff can go to hobby wood workers

D

[Kbeitz]

I start at the BIG end. I don't want to get down to the other end and get
stuck on one that's to big for my mill.

[Dave Shepard]

I usually start on the big end, but for no particular reason.

[GAB]

Being vertically challenged, I prefer to go into the small end as the visibility is better in many cases.
However I agree with MM's comment.
Gerald

[WV Sawmiller]

   I find it is easier for me to level the log with my toeboards if the little end is at the front of the mill.

    However, as Kbeitz said, if there is a question about being too big it is safer to start at the big end then if the blade guide pass it will make it the rest of the way - unless there is a limb, knot or severe sweep preventing it.

   Like MM, I usually just saw them as they are presented. I don't remember the last time I switched ends of a log to saw it.

[Brad_bb]

I try to start at the small end most of the time.  Sometimes it makes sense the other way.  I level the pith at both ends.  A toe board helps for his.  I still use blocking, but am in process or installing a manual crank toe board.
Was just talking with rjwoelk about all the tips we have, we could write a book.
What mill are you starting with coxy?
-I keep johnson's paste wax at the mill to wax cross bars to I can slide the logs/cants easier.
-If you are making timbers, it's ok to cut a log into a cant until you know what size you need.  If you're making boards however, leave it as a log until you know what thickness boards you're going to cut.  A cant that starts to dry out will check on one side and the can't will no longer be square.  If recutting for a timber no problem, but if cutting for boards, that checked side is going to increase your waste loss.  If you cut the log into boards however, you will not get that checking and waste loss.  I sometimes cut some logs into cants that will become timbers.  I'm going to plane them square with my beam planer anyway.
-If you're cutting a log with branch knots, slow down fir the knots and let the saw cut through the sloping grain.  If you go too fast I've found that my blade wants to rise or dive depending on if you're cutting from the big or small end.

[bags]

Forty sum years ago my Grandpa started me on his circle mill, and it was small end to the steel since the kick plate was at the front of the carriage and it was easier to eye the center of the log. Butt swells were junk--- we were make'in lumber. I still run small end to the saw on my band mill--- but I gotta agree with MM--- I'll cut'em however they hit the deck.

[Chuck White]

I used to prefer to start at the small end, however I've since changed my approach on it!

I usually measure the far end for height after I get the blade lined up with where I want to cut!

[uler3161]

I don't try to pick which end. I usually measure my first cut with a tape anyway, since logs can have low spots anywhere. But I do like the idea of starting with the big end first so you don't get stuck on a big log. Though usually when I have that problem, I already know I'm going to get stuck before I begin. One of these days I'll learn not to cut 45" logs on my LT40

[Kbeitz]

I try to start at the small end most of the time.  Sometimes it makes sense the other way.  I level the pith at both ends.  A toe board helps for his.  I still use blocking, but am in process or installing a manual crank toe board.
Was just talking with rjwoelk about all the tips we have, we could write a book.
What mill are you starting with coxy?
-I keep johnson's paste wax at the mill to wax cross bars to I can slide the logs/cants easier.
-If you are making timbers, it's ok to cut a log into a cant until you know what size you need.  If you're making boards however, leave it as a log until you know what thickness boards you're going to cut.  A cant that starts to dry out will check on one side and the can't will no longer be square.  If recutting for a timber no problem, but if cutting for boards, that checked side is going to increase your waste loss.  If you cut the log into boards however, you will not get that checking and waste loss.  I sometimes cut some logs into cants that will become timbers.  I'm going to plane them square with my beam planer anyway.
-If you're cutting a log with branch knots, slow down fir the knots and let the saw cut through the sloping grain.  If you go too fast I've found that my blade wants to rise or dive depending on if you're cutting from the big or small end.

Try Slipit...

[WV Sawmiller]

Brad,

   I've seen here before where folks advise not cutting and storing cants because of the resulting checking and loss of lumber. I assume that is because of the increased air flow. I'm wondering if anyone has ever cut cants and flat stacked them tight instead of stickering them to retard drying. I assume if stored under cover they would last much longer than a log exposed to the elements.

   I wonder if that would make the cant last longer and be ready for future use. Anybody every do this or have any experience with flat stacking and storing cants for future use?

[Peter Drouin]

Put your eye on it, level, and cut, however they come.  :D :D :D :D :D :D ;)

[DPatton]

I almost always start my cuts with the big end of the log. Because my mill only has one toeboard device for leveling and it's toward the other end of the bed.
A Friend of mine just down the road runs a bigger mill with multiple toe boards. He likes to start from the small end and even says that he believes some of the harder cutting species seem to cut better sawing from small end to large end.

[4x4American]

Sawing for production I saw them how they land and if I slab too heavy I just say better luck next time.  M


Coxy your short boards on a tapered log when opening up a face can be used for making stickers.  If you don't need stickers then just open that face up the full log length.  Better put on your big girl britches if you make some heavy slabs.


Whatd ya get for a sawmill I musta mist that

[WDH]

I've seen here before where folks advise not cutting and storing cants because of the resulting checking and loss of lumber. I assume that is because of the increased air flow.

Actually the problem with storing future boards in cants is the the shell of the cant is drying and trying to shrink, but because the cant is very thick, the core is still wet and won't let the shell shrink.  This sets up stress which is relieved by cracks and checks on the outer faces.  In a 4/4 board, the thickness is such that you can even out the water migration from the core to the shell with controlled drying and eliminate this issue.  You can't hardly dry a 10" x 10" cant slow enough to keep the stress relieved. 

[YellowHammer]

Better put on your big girl britches if you make some heavy slabs.

Yep!  I cut my slab thickness directly proportional to how much I feel like hefting.  They get real heavy real fast.  Easier to cut thinner more often than having a mega slab challenging you to a duel. 

[4x4American]

Better put on your big girl britches if you make some heavy slabs.

Yep!  I cut my slab thickness directly proportional to how much I feel like hefting.  They get real heavy real fast.  Easier to cut thinner more often than having a mega slab challenging you to a duel.

lol same here!

[Brad_bb]

WDH makes a good point.  No I don't think flat stacking would work.  The exposed outer areas would be exposed to more drying, and you might get mold on the inner faces.  The cant will still dry and move no matter what. Leave them in log form for boards til you're ready.  I keep logs in 2 places, in my dry uninsulated Morton building that is typically 5-10 degrees warmer than outside from the sun heating it up, or outside on the concrete where any logs rained on dry fast.

[crowhill]

A few years ago I ended up with more pine logs than time to saw before the worms would get em so sawed into cants and stickered them. Thinking I would be good, wrong! They all split n split fast. Would have been better letting the worms eat a little and taking thick slabs.

[Babylon519]

I start logs at the big end on my circle mill. I read somewhere that starting at the small end coming into the log at that acute angle might deflect the blade a bit, similar to a lead-in problem. Starting at the big end means my blade always hits the wood at 90 degrees, and you start with a straight plunge. That made sense to me so I've done it that way ever since. Even if you get a few shorties at the start, at least you can readily see your thickness before plunging in.

[47sawdust]

I cut a lot of miserable,naughty,err, knotty spruce.I find it saws better entering from the small end.I can also determine my target cant size more easily.

[coxy]

Sawing for production I saw them how they land and if I slab too heavy I just say better luck next time.  M


Coxy your short boards on a tapered log when opening up a face can be used for making stickers.  If you don't need stickers then just open that face up the full log length.  Better put on your big girl britches if you make some heavy slabs.


Whatd ya get for a sawmill I musta mist that

from all you pros i think its a lt25  :-\ ;D don't have it yet but working on it

[Tim]

I prefer to start from the top of the log. The logs were scale piled when they came into the yard so, it was only a matter of having the truck pointed in the right direction when he unloaded.

When my Dad was teaching me how to saw... almost 30 years ago; He said to me if you don't know, just saw. If you screw up, you'll learn. I'm thinking though, that you'll want to watch your dogs.