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#1
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Wood Mizer website
Last post by Chiselbut - Today at 04:50:31 PM
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on Today at 11:34:52 AMhere's where it would be...
https://apps.woodmizer.com/Manuals/ManualsCustomer.aspx?EquipmentS=19

it looks like the electrical information is posted by revision range, not by year, do you have your revision number? I think this would be listed on your Vin sticker, or if not there then in your online account with Woodmizer>shop parts>equipment listing for your sawmill>on the right there would be a revision number. If you have that account info set up.

Updated does look like the manuals are also listed by year...
https://apps.woodmizer.com/Manuals/EngDoc.aspx?man=sawmill%2foperation%2fpdf2%2f640.pdf

Might help to have which  engine you have
Thank you.
#2
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Wood Mizer website
Last post by Chiselbut - Today at 04:50:07 PM
Quote from: Ben Cut-wright on Today at 12:40:00 PMMost of the wiring diagrams at the WoodMizer website are found in the "engines" section.  These are not complete in that some components are not shown. But there should be enough diagram to interpolate what you need to know.

Hydraulic electrical power comes from the strip and grounds should be back to the battery.  If other wires are heating up there is current going where it should not be going. Which "two wires" are "melting"?  Power and ground at the PCB terminals?

Also be aware there was a change/retro in control switches so yours may or may not match the diagrams if it has been replaced.
Hi and thank you.  It appears, there are two 14 gauge wires from the back of the variable rate box, and the previous owners considered one a ground wire, connected to the negative batt terminal, the other is spliced into another wire, and i have yet to trace where that goes.  The grounded wire (attached to the negative batt terminal) melted down and it appears got so hot that it compromised the other wire as well. 

I replaced those 14 gauge wires with 10 gauge wires today, installed new battery post clamps, cleaned up the mess etc.

Will see what happens tomorrow; lots of corrosion, loose and rusted connections. 
#3
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Amputated
Last post by rusticretreater - Today at 04:44:52 PM
talk about your click-bait!
#4
General Board / Re: Making it through another ...
Last post by doc henderson - Today at 04:41:04 PM
no offense taken.  Had I not had that pic already, I would not have bothered.  It is all good, and just showing it can be done with curved, and especially if they are similar in length and height.   ffcool
#5
Sawmills and Milling / Amputated
Last post by Nebraska - Today at 04:29:57 PM


Predator amputation completed.....transplant to follow.  
#6
Sawmills and Milling / Re: The Opening Face
Last post by Ianab - Today at 04:08:36 PM
Quote from: Magicman on Today at 07:49:48 AM
Quote from: Ianab on Today at 06:00:21 AMThe ones near the pith won't be great, juvenile wood and all that,
Sadly, most if not all lumber yard framing lumber comes from "chip and saw" logs so it contains much juvenile wood. 
Construction lumber doesn't need to be perfect, it needs to be "good enough". Most sold locally is machine graded for strength only, and builders have to use the higher grade wood for critical things like roof trusses. Wall studs are less critical, and "good enough" can be used for those. If building with log run lumber, some boards will be better than others. A good builder should be keeping that in mind and roughly grading the wood as it's used. 
#7
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Did something dumb today.
Last post by Jeff - Today at 04:03:43 PM
I'll be glad when we have an election, so I can tell male from female,again.  And I did such a nice job. It was all I had, it never occurred to me that it was not the correct end.

#8
Sawmills and Milling / Re: power lift help needed
Last post by mroldstyle - Today at 03:54:40 PM
MM, the tarp motor has a 60:1 gear ratio, turns at 49 rpm hooked up direct to 12v
#9
General Board / Re: Making it through another ...
Last post by WV Sawmiller - Today at 03:53:34 PM
Doc,

   And please understand I am not being critical of the round bottom benches made from thick first cut slabs. I have made a few myself when the wood was just too pretty to waste.

    What I was saying was an unplanned benefit of the 8/4 tops and same height legs is they nest together well.  

    I mentioned putting the unfinished benches in first face down because I am not worried about them getting scratched or scuffed. If they did have a finished top I could just throw a moving blanket down first and use the same technique I do now to load them. The legs interlock and hold each other in and as long as you can get a strap over and between the legs on the top of the load it makes a very stable and secure load and you can get a lot on a trailer. I have nested birdhouses and crates and other small items in the dead space between the legs when I needed that space.
#10
General Board / Re: Making it through another ...
Last post by doc henderson - Today at 03:41:38 PM
the bench on the left, is shorter.  most are 16 inches to top of the seat.  It can be done.   :thumbsup:

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