Building a Trailer foran Oscar30

[DomR]

This is my first post so here goes. I Have a small welding shop in western WI and a brother-in law that is a home remodeler in the Twin Cities.  He decided to buy the mill and have me make a trailer for it.  I have experience starting from scratch with others but with those I knew what the loads and stressors would be.  I don't have a clue on this one so I need suggestions from you guys.  I like to do things right and a little over kill is OK.  The bro -in-law thinks he can just mount an axle on the frame rail and put some lights and a hitch on it - bingo it will be done.  I'm NOT THAT STUPID.  He got the upgraded package with bigger engine and power feed but only 7'rails and thats about all I was able to understand.  Been reading the postings for a few days and figured you guys would know what I'm talking about.  Mill will be here in 7 days and would like to have material here to start since he has 300 18-24"pines 20-24' long to cut before winter.  Would any of you consider levelling the rails and extensions on the ground or blocks for the short term. 
DomR

[sawguy21]

Welcome to the forum. A lot of good info here (and more than a few laughs). What mill did he buy? The make and model should give our resident fabricators something to go on.

[sawguy21]

Sorry, just noticed the header

[Dan_Shade]

a good start is some heavy walled tubing.  I wouldn't use any less than 2x6x1/4 wall thickness... you could use channel too, i'm sure.

weld up so you have several cross members.  try to minimize the pulling so it stays flat.  trailer jacks make great levelers, i have 6 over a 20 foot length (3/side), going to 24, I'd at least use 8.  level the track up with a level going forward/aft, and left/right.  check every so often.

are you using the hudson track that comes with the mill?

[Tom]

DomR

I don't have one of those mills, but I have seen them operated.  The mills of that size were originally intended to be ground mounted and leveled.  Transportation was done in the back of a Pickup or on a trailer.   While the manufacturers do make trailer packages for the mills, the frames must be beefed up considerably on most of them to get them to carry their own weight.

I know your brother-in-law probably has his own ideas, but, I would recommend that the money be spent on a trailer to haul the mill and support equipment, with the added function of being able to get the mill off of and on to the trailer.  Perhaps rollers and boat winch would be handy.  You will  kill two birds with one stone and the mill can be made more stable for its intended purpose by mounting it on the ground.  The trailer will be handy to carry lumber, logs (if means are made to load them), tools, blades, canthooks and many other things he will find a necessity when he begins sawing.

You can get an idea of what you are up against by visiting Hudson's site on the mill.
http://www.hud-son.com/oscar30.htm

[DomR]

Saw guy, I thought I made a mistake, you know new and all.
Dan, the tentative plan is to use Hud-son rails and add what I need to be able to cut 24'.  How much dead space does the head need.  I thought about using 3 jacks and putting reciever itch at each corner and space 2 more along each side evenly that way I can pull the tires and lower the trailer to about knee high before blocking and levelling the move the jacks down the frame doing the same thing.  When i'm done i'd have the unit on blocks not the jacks.  Wouldn't that be more stable?

[DomR]

Tom,  If I did that wouldn't I have to beef up the original frame to be able to skid the unit onto a trailer to keep the rails straight.  I really like this Idea since I have some frames that were dropped off at my shop to be repaired and the price to fix was too much for the owners that they became my "junk". 
Sorry about the spelling and such- never did get my fingers to keep up with my mind.

[Tom]

You may have to beef up the frame some to get it to load on a trailer but nothing like you would have to do to make it into a trailer frame that will withstand a bumpy road.  You could also carry 6x6 wood beams on the trailer to put on the ground as a foundation.  I don't know how difficult it would be to make a foundation 24 feet long that is straight as an arrow, but you could saw and haul 16 footers without too much trouble.

[Dan_Shade]

you're better off making new rails, hud-son uses metric crap for their stuff. which makes the heights different. 

outriggers are a good idea.  I'd not bother with having to use blocks, the jacks will hold it fine, but the outriggers will keep you from flipping it over.

as far as dead space, you need however long the sawhead is for dead space, I think for my 28" it's like 30 inches or something, I can't remember, and the saw isn't at my house.

I have some pictures of what I did in my photo gallery, I used 11 gauge, and don't have it on a trailer, I wish I had used 1/4 wall tubing. 

[tcsmpsi]

My basic mill is similar to the Oscar 30.  Generally speaking, I would say that to cut 24' logs/boards, your trailer bed will need to be around 30'.   I had a 'working trailer' set up built for/with my mill.  Mine will readily accomodate 18.5' logs/boards and I have 4 leveling legs on each side.

What was done on mine, is that basically the substantive trailer was built and the mill works then melded to it.  I have checked, rechecked, plumbed, leveled and measured from every which way, and they did an extroadinary job in keeping everything...right.

There are no joints the full length of the unit, which is one thing I would not have with the basic mill set up and its available bed additions.

Ultimately, the trailer itself would have to be able to accomodate dropping the  biggest log the mill is capable of handling on to it, the mill works,  and road stress. 
For eternity.   ;D

[DomR]

O.K.  TC -You convinced me.  I don't want to be repairing it after he hits something and he would do just that with a 30' trailer.  Some people don't have that much room and he's not very good at backing up.  What about a 20'trailer to handle 16' logs and an extension to get him up to the 24' stuff?  I'm really considering Toms' idea about transporting on a trailer and setting it up on the ground.  The logs are about 125 miles from home (Northern Wi hunting retreat) on some land we own so it won't need to be moved until we are finished sawing.  Maybe then he'll want it on wheels for custom jobs and I'll have a better Idea of what I'm talking about.  Maybe????
 

[tcsmpsi]

I do certainly understand and appreciate the want/need to have 24' lumber.   If I had a considerable amount of logs in one spot, I would set it up as 'permanent' as reasonably possible.   Handling many 24' logs of any substance is going to be a 'treat' of its own accord, and the mill deck is promised to be pretty well thumped.

I've noticed that some of the mfrs. of mills offer their trailer packages as 'transport only'.   

I don't know what kind of support equipment there will be in handling the logs, but the higher the mill deck, the higher the log is going to have to get on it.   ;D

Might want to think in the relation, as well.

[Tom]

The low log deck is a good consideration, tcmpsi.  You can raise it a  little to make for easier handling of sawed lumber if you build a log deck and have the means of raising the logs to load it.   Being flat on the ground isn't the best idea either.  All manner of trash, sawdust, bark and chips, will accumulate between the rails and the design should be such that cleaning this stuff out is easy.  If it's put under roof, then it's also a consideration that the sawdust may be easier removed by tractor and boxblade than a shovel.

This sounds like a temporarily permanant situation.  :D   If it is, a shelter of some sort would be a good idea.  Some planning before-hand will show how the mill an be placed in the shelter, how the logs enter, how the lumber and slabs exit, how the sawdust will be removed and where a good place for spare parts could be built.

See  how we've already begun complicating your life, DomR?   :D

[DomR]

I Can see you need more Info here.  There will be no shed...  The logs are for our own northwoods retreat.  The current cabin is a turn of the last century loggers shack that was once owned by Leinenkugels.  Somehow the father-in-law got a hold of it.  No foundation to speak of and the wood thats there is barely in the form of a structure any more.  New foundation is poured so he is planning to stack and cover lumber there until it's dry and building begins.  I was thinking about the debris and junk piling up too.  Perhaps using 6x6's to get it up a little is the answer.  When all is underway I'll get some pics on of the old and new.
keep them coming guys.
Thanks

[Tom]

Rvrdivr put some pictures on here somewhere, where he built a little shed at the end of the track to roll his saw head under when he finished sawing for the day. I think it doubled for storage of blades and stuff too.  He just exteded his track into the little shed and moved the head there to keep it out of the weather.  I thought that was a pretty good idea.


I found the picture.





Read some of his notes:

Leveling his tracks

A Big Log

[tcsmpsi]

Perhaps just a skosh of pictoral food for thought...

Set up for milling



tarp rolled up, stacking lumber



rope from the tree the tarp is rolled up on to either mill head frame or another tree, or post, etc.   everything covered, plenty of air space

30' X 40' Harbor Freight on sale heavy duty tarp was about 50 bucks.  Will last 'til I get the millshed built.

[Radar67]

I used 1/4 x 2 x 6 tubing for my trailer and it is rigid. I've had a few 2700 pound logs on it and it held up fine. Check out my gallery for pictures of mine.

Stew

[DomR]

Tom, I think that you had the right idea about setting the unit on the ground. Looked at Rvrdivrs' pics and called the Bro -in-law.  The slab is 4 feet up with 2 rows of block above the floor and Wiersbo is already in so I don' want to risk setting up on it.  I suggested pouring small pads so we can level off of a solid area.  I'm thinking about  making two sets of rail extensions 10' long and using them as the main cutting area in case I can't get an exact match to the existing rails.  I do have a tractor/ loader as well as a bobcat for maneuvering logs.  Probably could get my hands on a backhoe or front end loader on weekends thanks to a nephew in the implement biz.  I think that Radar and tc are on the righttrack though if he does want it trailered later. 
Thanks

[arj]

Here`s a picture of how I set up my Hudson it`s kind
of a long shot, but, you can get the idea.
           arj

[DomR]

arj, did you use hud-sons rails or start with a single piece.  Wow, I can't believe that this morning I was going to build a trailer and now I'm thinking that a ground set up would be easier.  If I can talk the Bro-in-law into a wood shed for firewood when we are done then it may be sitting on a slab too.  If I have 26'' of rail will I be able to cut 24' logs? Do I need to go longer? Oh ya, i saw your rack for cutting slab wood up great idea.  might do that on a trailer with pallets. load them, get em where I want, unload and cut with the saw.  I'm thinking about my family (pre-marrage) cabin that I still have.  its  about 60 mi from this one and the wood stack is getting low there.

[DomR]

arj, did you use hud-sons rails or start with a single piece.  Wow, I can't believe that this morning I was going to build a trailer and now I'm thinking that a ground set up would be easier.  If I can talk the Bro-in-law into a wood shed for firewood when we are done then it may be sitting on a slab too.  If I have 26'' of rail will I be able to cut 24' logs? Do I need to go longer? Oh ya, i saw your rack for cutting slab wood up great idea.  might do that on a trailer with pallets. load them, get em where I want, unload and cut with the saw.  I'm thinking about my family (pre-marrage) cabin that I still have.  its  about 60 mi from this one and the wood stack is getting low there.

[timcosby]

that little shed for the head of the mill sure is nice but being the hillbilly redneck i am i bought a 68" bbq grill cover at walmart fits like a glove.

[Tom]

Tim,
I had a Woodmizer cover for my mill when it was newer.  I found that the covers will allow water to condense on the engine.  When I would take it off, the engine looked like it had been out in the rain.  I had to wait until the engine was cool before I could put it on too.  I quit using it.  Covers sure do look cool though.

[tcsmpsi]

Dom

On the Oscar 30, it looks like you will probably need a minimum of about 3' extra track than your intended log length.   Might 'get by' with a little less, but that is going to bind you up and give you no room for compensation.  Now, if all logs were nice and straight with little or no taper and no stress, then it might be ok to butt right up to the blade when you gently coax the log onto the deck.

Part of it will depend on where/how the dogs/clamps are positioned.  Sometimes with not so straight or otherwise 'perfect' logs, they position better, say with a particular curvature in the log between bunks rather than right on top of one.  For me, it just works better to be able to move the log back or forth, from time to time.

And, it is not always 'exact science' as to just how the log is going to go onto the deck.  Those "best laid plans...", as some canoe motor is prone to eloquently point out now and then.   ;) ;D

[Left Coast Chris]

Not to confuse things but .........  I  went ahead with a trailer and I am supprised at how many times I move the mill to go in shade in the summer, move the mill into the shop for maintenance and move to use the set up area for other things.

Also, a couple of times I was offered valuable logs that were better off being sawn on site..... away I went.

If you have plenty of space and maybe build the shed to go into the permanent set up may be o.k. though.

[DomR]

I'd like to say that I'm going to stop asking questions but you all keep giving me food for thought.  TC- now I understand the 30'trailer. I had not thought about room to maneuver the log and the irregular timber.  Farmer 77 your point about portability is valid and valued. I think ............        WAIT , thats what got me here. If he wants to cut in Oct and get a jump on snow we are going to have to tie it together on ground bunks and work on the trailer in the heart of winter.  Should have enough oops lumber to build a shed or garage or barn or rental unit by then.
Dom   

[bhub]

I use a hudson oscar 30 also - had the same set up issues. I decided to get 2 pieces of hudson track and put them on a 6"x 6" frame. I also put up a quick roof over my saw. Keeps the rain and sun away and Protects my investment. I have a tent across from my saw shed that houses my lumber. Tomorrow I am making that a 10x 20 shed with roof and shade dry walls. I have a piece of shade dry to go around the perimeter of the new shed 60 feet. The shed walls are 6 foot high so shade dry makes a great wall. Metal roofining keeps out the sun rain and snow. By the way I bring my wood by trailer to my saw. Go to my gallery and you can see what i do. I am just a guy cuttin walnut and cherry for my own use. Kinda hokey but gets the job done
good luck
b

[arj]

Yes I used the Hudson track, just laged it to the oak timbers under
it. Also put blocks under each bunk its very stable I`ve cut 36"x 20`
oak very heavy turned the cant by wrapping a chain around it and
lifting with my bucket loader. I added a section of track I made myself
I only Had some 2x2x1//4 angle iron So I shimed it up with 1" boards
ot make it level with the stock 3x3
                                                              arj