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Blade Sharpening Source

Started by Jerry W., December 19, 2019, 11:52:39 AM

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Jerry W.


Hello Forestry Forum Community.

I am new here and new to milling lumber, with only about 15-20 hours experience.

Looking for any tips anyone would have for me; any examples of you learning from your personal experiences.

One thing I have learned already is that blades do not last as long as I expected. Therefore, my main reason for being here is that I am looking for a good source for re sharpening blades. My mill is a Woodland Mills HM 122 bandsaw with a 125" x 1.25" x .042" x 7/8 blade. I would be looking for the sharpening plus shipping price to beat the $30 per new blade price.

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks,

terrifictimbersllc

Please update your profile to include your location, that helps for many reasons.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Old Greenhorn

Hey Jerry, welcome to the forum. Asking for experiences is a big question without specifics. There is a LOT of reading you can do here to round out your knowledge and if you don't find what you need then a specific question will usually get you what you need. \
Whose blades (brand) are you using now? They would be my first call. Many here use the Woodmizer resharp service, but WM only does their blades AFIK. Woodmizer has all the info and costs up on their website.
 As @terrifictimbersllc said, knowing where you are will give folks a better idea of what might work for you.
 Good Luck,
Tom
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way.  NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Jerry W.

To answer the two previous posts... I am from Fort Ransom in southeast North Dakota. I use the OEM Woodland Mills blades that came with the mill.

Nomad

     Not sure what would be the best bet for you about sharpening, but I'd start looking or other blade suppliers.  Most manufacturers will make a blade to your length, no problem, for quite a bit less than you're paying.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
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goose63

Welcome to Forum Jerry I'm in Hankinson not far from you.

Have a look at the one Woodland has I have one its slow but on nasty days in a warm shop its some thing to do.
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

bushhog920

Spend the $2500 for a good sharpener/dual tooth setter. I know I know " but that's almost what I spent on the mill"I was there myself with a $3000 used 13hp Norwood and Cooks catclaw and dual tooth. If it doesn't work out resale on a good sharpener is pretty good.

SawyerTed

Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher


btulloh

Hello Jerry and welcome aboard. You'll find a lot of useful info and good people here. I second the the suggestion to dig around in previous posts for information. A lot has been written on a lot of different subjects. Helpful people are always willing to jump in when have specific questions or run into problems. 

Typically, blades run about 7 or 8 dollars each to resharpen. Shipping usually depends on distance, but I pay around 50 or 60 bucks to ship a box of 15. You may even find someone reasonably local to provide that service. I'm a long way from ND, so I can't be much help on that. 

I have an HM126 and I bought a box of their Lennox blades when I bought the mill. They were ok, but I find the  seven degree Kasko blades do a better all around job for me and are also less expensive. Chech the list of sponsors on the left for their contact info and give them a call. I think the blades to fityour mill are standard items, but not listed on their website. They can also tell you who the closest distributor is. They are very helpful. 

Of course their are other good makes, but I don't have personal experience with anything but Lennox and Kasko. 

I find that my blades dull pretty quickly also, so your experience is normal. Our mills with lower HP (mine is only 9.5hp) tend to dull blades a bit faster, mainly because the blade is in the cut longer. Removing a strip of bark along the cut line helps. Removing any dirt or debris also helps. 

Good luck with your sawing adventures, and one again, welcome to the FF.
HM126

Jerry W.


Maybe I should fill you all in a bit about the lumber industry in North Dakota... I don't think there is a lumber industry in North Dakota. Forests are few and far between here. I happen to live in the Sheyenne River Valley which has some forested areas that would likely be private land used primarily for hunting or other outdoor recreation. I live on some property where there were some pine trees turning brown. So, I cut them down and decided to try milling for a hobby. The pines that I cut down will give me a several days work, but after that I intend to just do some custom milling now and then until I retire from my real job (machinist) when I will likely get a bit more serious about it. For right now I am not interested in spending a whole lot of money on sharpening equipment. There may not be enough demand for milling in the area, or I may grow tired of milling before I even get to retirement in which case you would see a sawmill for sale in southeast ND.

So, you see, there are probably no bandsaw blade sharpeners within a couple hundred miles of me. Therefore, I expect I will be shipping them probably across the country. I am looking for anyone reading this who has a low volume, quality source for re-sharpening. I am seeing a lot of $7-8 / blade. I would be very interested in this price since it is well below the $25 plus shipping for new blades that would otherwise wear out and get scrapped.

As a machinist, I love carbide. I would be interested if anyone knows of any carbide tipped blade options out there.

Andries

Welcome to the Forum Jerry.
I'm about a three hour drive North, and in another country - but we share the same Prairie. 
A handshake with @goose63 would be good. He's posted above and is a short drive from you. 
Plus, he runs a sharpener.

I run 4° Kasco blades in the winter because everything on the mill is either frozen or frozen hardwoods. Urban tree have a lot of metal as well, and I've found that Kasco stands up better than the other major brands to that kind of abuse.

Carbide bands get rave reviews from folks that have posted here. Check out posts by Bandmill Bandit in Alberta. If memory serves, he sharpens/touches up his own bands. 
As a machinist,  you've got an advantage over most of us. You will understand the workings of a sawmill pdq.
Then, the need to understand wood kicks in. . . . and that will keep you entertained for most of your retirement! 😆
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Southside

Call Wood mizer and ask about their bands and their re-sharp program.  They won't care whose mill you run, as long as you buy their bands they will sharpen them.  With shipping it will cost you about $10 for each sharp band that lands at your place.  

Yes, you can sharpen carbide bands, the service costs more, but the real downside is when they break or you hit tramp metal the ouch factor is quite a bit higher.  I run some carbides in specific applications but have never really made a habit of it, a well sharpened and set carbon steel band will work for you just fine.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
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White Oak Meadows

btulloh

Most of the manufacturers make some type of carbide blades that can run on your mill.  Woodmizer, TimberWolfe, Kasco, etc.  There have been quite a few discussions on here about the carbide blades.  Some have found them to be the answer to their needs.  Like all things, it just depends on the individual situation.  Certainly worth looking into and trying out.

One sharpening service you may try is Cutting Edge Saw Services (in WV).  He is a member here as well.  @Cutting Edge   The phone number is 304-878-3343

A few people have touched up their blades using a dremel.  May be worth a try in a pinch.  That doesn't account for setting the blade of course.  Not generally considered a great method, but may be helpful.  Just depends.
HM126

DDW_OR

I got one carbide blade. it cuts SMOOTH,  almost planer smooth

so 99% of my future milling will be with the standard blades, and the 1% will be with the carbide for customers that will pay extra for a smooth finish. all will pay for blade damage, extra for carbide

get everything in writing before you turn on the mill.

FYI, i am retired and cutting for my self. in the future i may cut for others. will have to research rules, laws, and taxes. here in Montana and in Oregon, if you sell Firewood, lumber or logs from your own land you have to pay a state tax, maybe even Federal
"let the machines do the work"

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