goose neck into logging trailer

[YellowHammer]

Yes, it's an old trick when the wires are already run inside a tube that needs to welded.  Generally winches are welded into the drivers side so you can see them easily, and the straps are attached to the rub rail on the passenger side to be slightly more protected in a sideswipe wreck.  

Some trailers have the wires run down that side, so it's possible to burn them, which takes all the fun out a project.  If they are easy to pull back, then tie a string to them and pull them from the weld site.  If not, then use water as a coolant.  Park the trailer near your welder with a very slight grade, pop a tail light out and slide a garden hose in, turn the water on and it should run the length of the tubing and come out near the front of the trailer.  None should be coming out where the welding is taking place and it's important to not weld standing in a puddle of water.  It should be dry where you are working.  It's also important to not burn through the tubing or you'll get water everywhere, but your welding shows that shouldn't be a problem.  

You can also use wet rags to keep the wire cool, but that is messy.  Main thing is don't burn the tail light and brake wires when welding on the winches.  There may be a better way of doing it, but this is the way I normally do it.   

It's important to never weld the side of the winch bracket, only the flat front and back.  If the sides are welded to the trailer frame, the sides will pull slightly and cause the winch drum to bind.  When attached correctly, the drum should turn very freely.  

They are welded so the straps can always be fed between the rub rail and the side on the trailer frame, again, to protect from a sideswipe, which has happened to me.  A driver on Zannex sideswiped me in a near head on and her car slid down the entire length of the trailer, totally filleting the side of her car open including cutting her front suspension in half, and there was virtually no damage to my trailer, or her for that matter.  That's why the rub rails are there, to protect everything else, and it's important to keep all hardware inboard of them.  

[Crusarius]

DOT says straps cannot be run over the rub rail they have to be run inside it. For the very reason Yellowhammer mentions.

Doc, great job on the fab work. Before you paint it may not be a bad idea to weld a block of something on the bottom so if the tube does get stuck you have a more substantial piece of something to pry off of to lift the tube. The edge of the tube will work but I find if thats all your relying on after a long tedious day where nothing goes right, that will also not go right

[mike_belben]

Brush it on if you want to, but if you do, you can't use the hardener as Mike suggests.

Sure ya can.  The rims on my IH were brushed with hardener.  So was my dozer.  Just faster and more even when sprayed imo.   I thin a touch most of the time for that.
Look up $50 paintjob.. Tons of people roll on rustoleum with hardener.

[btulloh]

X2 on the hardener for sure.  Brush or spray.  I've brushed it on and it's fine, although brushing is not the best way to paint your Ferrari.  Make small batches when you brush paint with hardener.  You don't have a lot of time to mess around.

Mike - does Rustoleum make a hardener for their paint?  I'd like to get some of their hardener if they do.   I have to stick to known compatible products. TSC sells an implement paint with a companion hardener that's pretty good and reasonably priced.  Much cheaper than going to the auto paint pro store and paying the big bucks for the good stuff for such a little job.

Powder coat would be even better.  I've always wanted to try sending out stuff like those bunks to see how much it would cost but never have gotten around to it.  The powder coat guys do a great job of cleaning and prepping, which is at least half the battle.

Nice build Doc.  Good addition to your log hauling department.

[Walnut Beast]

I personally wouldn't go mixing in non compatible stuff or you could end up with a mess on your hands. I would sandblast first then the best would be a good epoxy primer and Imron high gloss black. Remember preparation before everything is key and keeping contamination away. Flow equals gloss

[Walnut Beast]

Brush it on if you want to, but if you do, you can't use the hardener as Mike suggests.

Sure ya can.  The rims on my IH were brushed with hardener.  So was my dozer.  Just faster and more even when sprayed imo.   I thin a touch most of the time for that.
Look up $50 paintjob.. Tons of people roll on rustoleum with hardener.

This economy alternative will work fine 

[YellowHammer]

Paint?  Paint?  This thing's built for work.  It don't need no stinking paint! 

Just hook it to a chain, throw it in the mud, and drag it for a few hundred yards.  Then put it back on the trailer and let it get rained on a few times.  That'll teach it who's boss and make it look "used hard". :D :D

[caveman]

Good job, Doc.  On mine, which are a little different design built with stuff I had lying around, I drilled a hole in the channel a little lower than the stake pocket and welded a 5/8" nut centered over the over sized hole to thread in a bolt to keep the stakes in place.  The ones we most often use are singles that go in the stake pockets and we stack on broken 4x4's.  Yours are much stronger and better engineered but ours work on all of our trailers and when they get bent a little, we put them in the other direction the next time.

P2SO4 (Ospho) works well to convert rust when preparing to paint.  

[mike_belben]

Mike - does Rustoleum make a hardener for their paint?  I'd like to get some of their hardener if they do.   I have to stick to known compatible products. TSC sells an implement paint with a companion hardener that's pretty good and reasonably priced.  

Im fairly certain its the TSC hardener that ive put in all of my quickie paintjobs.  Rustoleum and cat yellow from the case dealer ironically.  

[scsmith42]

Another paint prep option is a wire cup brush on a grinder, followed by a mineral spirits cleaning.  Usually I start with hot water and soap, then give it a final rub down with acetone or mineral spirits.

Personally I prefer my strap winches to be on the passenger side of the trailer.  I can see that side just fine in my mirrors, and if I stop on the side of the road to check the strap tightness I prefer to be on the non-traffic side.

Too many folks killed changing a tire on the side of the road.

[Runningalucas]

Personally I prefer my strap winches to be on the passenger side of the trailer.  I can see that side just fine in my mirrors, and if I stop on the side of the road to check the strap tightness I prefer to be on the non-traffic side.

Too many folks killed changing a tire on the side of the road.

Smart.  A while ago, coming back from an equipment auction, my rear left trailer tire blew out.  It SUCKED, changing that on the side of the interstate.  Maybe 6 out of 10 semis pulled over into the left lane to give way, and maybe 4 out of 10 cars did likewise; just not a comfortable situation with your ass 3 inches from the lane marker.  It prompted me to buy a cordless impact gun to keep on hand for hell like that; if the need arises again, then at least I can get it done faster.  

[mike_belben]

Ive spent many cumulative hours right there on the line the past 5 years.  Great way to get killed

[doc henderson]

update. 



 

 

 

 

 

jig to make a V ring to pull the risers off with my crane and chain with a hook, if log is against them or if out of round.  need to make my stabilizers that seal up the end, paint, and give them a try.

[Tacotodd]

Good job doc on your "engendering". Now you just have to weld enough fillit into it and everything will be G2G (good to go) 😁

[YellowHammer]

Looks great!
How tall did you make the risers/standards?

I started at 4 feet tall but I was constantly overloading and blowing my weight limits because I use them for a reference.  Over time, I would whittle a few inches off the end, until I had their height optimized for a full load, but not overload.  So when a loader operator would ask how many logs they could fit on, I'd say "load it until you run out of room" and they basically couldn't stack them so high I was over weight.

Their height also how hard the State Troopers will look at you when you drive by.  I was told by a Trooper that the standards and the load should not be higher or taller than the gooseneck, thats one thing they look for. 

It's pretty common for me to have such big logs, or so many that I can't deadlift them over the top of standards and they are pressed so tightly that the standards won't come off because the logs are jammed onto them.  It's no problem though. 

I use the forks and push the logs against the other side standards, but be careful to not flip the trailer.  Or I use the forks and roll the topmost logs off the far side, over the standards, and let them plop onto the ground.  When you have enough logs off, use the loader and push against the offending jamming log and get a little air space between the log and the standard.  Then with the loader stabilizing the load, just pull the standards off and slowly release the logs.  Then just unload them over the short stubs.  It's real easy and safe.  

At one point, I drilled a hole through the lowest part of each piece of channel that goes into the stake pockets and when the thing was fit to the trailer, I just ran a 1/2" bolt through the channel below the rub rail and frame, and that served as a freestanding pin and locked them where they couldn't come loose when empty.   However, now I just throw one of the straps over them, diagonally, and pull the down to the trailer, and that's one less strap I have to pull when I'm strapping down a new load.

I assume your stake pockets are set at 2 feet, so it's a perfect distance to use the crosspieces to load the lumber on.  So they serve as stacking dunnage when transporting lumber and you won't have to carry 4x4's anymore.

[doc henderson]

yes 4 feet.  I load my own so should not be and issue.  I added the pull V ring to lift off if needed.  and one in the center so I can use my crane to lift off the whole assembly, although they will likely stay on the trailer most of the time.
got the ends covered with the stabilizers, and I think it looks good.  



 

 

[YellowHammer]

Doc, you do excellent fabrication work, I'm curious where you learned the skills?

[doc henderson]

school of hard knocks, and tincture of time tech.  I put a lot of fun stuff off going to school.  So I have invested in some of the right tools now. My brother is a class A welder, but not a great teacher,  meaning he did not go over technical stuff, but said it should sound a certain way, and be sure and grind and clean everything.  i learned a lot of stuff growing up.  go out to a friends farm, turn on the buzz box and just weld stuff.  Maybe I am just showing the better welds in my photos...  anyway the compliment means a lot coming from you.  I think it will hold together.  and does look pretty good.  that I give credit to the design.  I have the other stabilizers and lift ring to do on the other one, and then I can help my son William get them painted.  Thanks for all the help.  I went to a funeral of my Neighbors 91 y/o mom today. She passed from covid.  A relative has some ash and walnut trees down on his farm he want me to come and get.  I guess I will get to try them out soon.  "I am a woodworker, and not a metal worker..."  @Old Greenhorn .  Or to quote star trek, "DanG it Jim, I am a doctor not a miracle worker!"     .

[Old Greenhorn]

Well, you sure do weld better than any Doctor I've ever met! Then again, when I meet a new Doctor I rarely ask him "What's your favorite rod to use on A6 steel?" :D ;D

[mike_belben]

Agreed, ive often thought youre pretty handy for bein edumacated, doc. 


Mig welds should crackle like bacon but faster.  Like bacon at an electric razor's buzz frequency.  If the weld is bubbled up ontop the parent metal like popcorn, raise the heat.  If its melting in good but sounds slow and hissy with a soft crackle, add wire speed.   For upside down welds, do everything normal except get the nozzle right up as close as you can, perpendicular to the joint.  Real short stickout is a key to upside down.   dont try to stack dimes in any position.  Move at one steady feedrate start to finish like a sawmill.  Pulling the puddle will come out prettier because of the shielding gas staying over the hot weld longer. 

[doc henderson]

ok, on the trailer with the help of my son.  able to carry the bunk by the lift ring and they balance nice.  I can carry one by hand, but would not want to do more than 10 feet.  I was able to reach in my shop to get them, and then set them on the trailer reaching over the front.  William guided them in.  looks like I have room to drill a pin hole to hold them on, might need a pipe spacer.  



 

 

 

 

 

Libby supervised my son and I.  should be able to lift them off with my boom and chain by the lift ring.  @YellowHammer i see your 4 inch winch ratchets are welded to the bottom of the rail.  if you get the sliding ones, where does the 6 foot plate go?  I will stick with my farm store 27k ones for now.  was going to paint them safety orange or red, but decided not to call attention to myself, and just match the trailer.  pinstripe anyone?  thinking about some reflective tape on the up rights.

[Walnut Beast]

A job well done Doc 👍

[Walnut Beast]

What did you do for prep and painting?

[doc henderson]

we use a flap wheel on a 18V batt. DeWalt grinder to knock down sharp corners.  rub with a sctch-brite and mineral spirits.  then wipe with a rag and MS.  then 3 cans of rusty metal red oxide rustoleum primer, then 3 cans of gloss black.  2 coats on the top that will see abrasion.  I can touch them up as need on the trailer.  the metal was $435.00 bucks including 42 dollars worth of cuts in the tubing and pipe.  The uprights are 4 feet, and that puts them about 6 inches taller than my trailer front. I might make two more for big loads but usually I need room on the back for the track loader.

[doc henderson]

I have at least 10 hours in them, but that includes working out how I wanted to do it, and making template jigs for the holes in the square tubing, and the caps for the uprights.  I made a jig to make the 6 pull rings.  the rings are made from 5/8th inch sucker rod, from the oil field.