goose neck into logging trailer

[doc henderson]

I have a PJ 32 foot gooseneck trailer.  it hauls my 270C track loader, and either firewood or millable logs to home.  I have used oak boards custom made to fit the stake pockets, and have twice snapped them off.  the pockets are oversized for standard sized lumber and or steel.  I feel it is time to step it up (safety) and make a steel version.  I do like the idea of being able to pull them out, and change the space and location for different applications, ect.  I can get standard rectangular tubing and add to the base to make it fit.  do not want it so tight I have to fight with it to get them out to move.  I am sure it would be stronger to connect the two sides together with a bottom support, that would also elevate the logs off the deck.  makes it easier to get under them with forks or  chain.  also protects the trailer floor.  Of course then the unit would be heavier and less able to adapt the opposite sides to accommodate various lengths.  My BIL works for a flat top bale bed manufacture, and can get what ever steel I decide to use.   so I can build up 1.5 x 3 inch tubing.  what wall thickness.  and I want it to not bend and be beat up to quickly.  I have 4 x 4 oak that lays on the floor to support the logs.  

[doc henderson]

 

 


 


 


 

[sawguy21]

You are lucky that the wood stakes were the only things to fail. You would be better off making bunks that pin to the floor and trailer frame, steel stakes are going to bend or tear out the pockets. They can be positioned wherever you want them and as you say provide clearance for the forks. Go heavier than you think you need, you won't regret it.

[doc henderson]

trailer rated at 24k, and weighs 6k.  skid loader is 9k.  only leaves 9k for logs.  and yes, my hope is to not tear up the trailer.  I like stuff used but otherwise looking good.

[doc henderson]

that is why I thought I might link pairs with a floor cross piece so the stress of flexing out could be applies to a triangular brace at the outside areas, and the weight of the wood applied down on the cross piece.  I guess if they end up heavy, I can well a d ring or something and lift them to move or remove with the trackloader.  

[Gary_C]

I have hauled logs with both a 24 ft gooseneck flatbed and a semi trailer flatbed. Both setups used bunks that fit in the stake pockets which are required if you haul into any commercial mill as the cross bed base elevates the logs to enable forks or a grapple to get under the logs to lift them off the bed without too much damage. The set I used on the gooseneck I made myself and the semi flatbed ones I had made by a welding shop. Both have stakes that fit into the stake pockets on the trailer. 

Check out this web site for ideas on commercially available cross bed supports as well as removable aluminum stakes. http://greatlakesmfg.com/alumalogffb.html

I can get you more information later on size of steel parts as I must do other thing right now. But recognize the steel ones are very heavy and difficult to remove from the stake pockets but wood only in the stake pockets is an absolute hazard.

[mike_belben]

Full spread steel bunks are so heavy you cant move them without help or a machine.  

Get some heavy wall 3x3 square tube and some 3" C channel to make boxes out of that will hold the 3x3 standards, or if you  can, find the appropriate sized telescoping receivers to insert the 3x3 standards inm  

 Cut squares of the outermost deck board out so that these C channel boxes are welded to the inboard face of your outermost rail.. On the opposite side of the rubrail.  Weld angle iron stubs to the boxes just below the wood so that the planking still sits on a ledge and is full strength.  These boxes that you build can be as tall as you want and tie into the main frame rails so they are multitudes stronger than pocket stakes or drop in bunks.  Believe it or not a rub rail doesnt have a very high load rating and its why coil haulers anchor to chain popups through the deck.. Because theyre rating is higher and satisfies DOT regs.  


These standards i propose are somewhat common for dedicated flatbed pipe and pole haulers. They will drop into your pocket when you want them or pull right out and stow in a dunnage box when you dont.  Just cut some 4x4 dunnage to lay loose on the deck for keeping fork space and stow that in a side hung box as well.  Youll have the best of both worlds and wont have to lift all the way up over a bunk for every single log.  You can just drop in the far side and start loading then add the near side stadards as the deck fills up.  

[Oliver05262]

Some ideas here:

GREAT LAKES MANUFACTURING, INC.

Alum-a-log

[doc henderson]

great pictures and descriptions.  the wood stakes I have been using, are to keep the logs on during loeading, and then of course they are all strapped sown.  I have broke them twice, and if someone trusted them too much and stood in the wrong spot at that moment, not good.  always trying to learn more.  thanks!

[mike_belben]

If you dont wanna mod the trailer you can get by like this.  These are my 8ft pipe stakes made from 3" channel.  But its important that mid way up you start a new course by laying fairly level dunnage and a pair of chains and binders to cinch the stakes together.. And it has to be before they flare out.  A bit of a pain with logs since the diameters arent uniform. 

[Crusarius]

Mike, I see those and think how great it would be to mill a chain hole and slot about every 24" the full length of that. then you can just stick the chain through the hole and hook it in the slot. Use a chain binder to pull them tight if you need to. Otherwise when you drop a log on the chain it will self tighten.

[YellowHammer]

I’ve hauled many million pounds of logs and lumber in my PJ Gooseneck setup, for several years, maybe 400 miles a week on a DOT inspected truck and trailer.  This is a very safe and extremely strong setup, with 4 inch heavy wall tubing for bunks, and removable side supports for hauling packs of lumber.  The bunks slip on heavy stubs.  The whole thing sits in the stakes pockets and can removed if desired.  When hauling lumber, just slip the bunks off the studs and leave the main assembly on the trailer to allow forklifts to get their forks under the pallet.   


I have many pictures with measurements in my galley, and several people have reproduced this design with success.  

https://forestryforum.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5893








The side supports slip over stubs.  


The studs are through welded and inset Inyo the 4x4, it is not just fillet welded to the top.  In order for the stud to come off, it would literally have to rip itself through the steel square tubing.  

[Skeans1]

One thing I would add are some knives on the bunks to help with the logs sliding under an extreme braking situation.

[Walnut Beast]

Yes indeed. Slick simple strong setup 👍👍👍

[Pine Ridge]

Good looking setup yellowhammer.

[doc henderson]

@YellowHammer 
do you lift them with skid steer?  do you leave them in place most of the time?  This gives me a good starting point with lots of great ideas from everyone.  no need to find the flaws in my design the "hard way".  already time and experience tested ideas.  just what I was looking for. 

[Ed_K]

 Give Great Lakes a long look, my log trucker just had that setup put on his truck. Said it lightened it up enough to get another 800ft on.

[scsmith42]

I too have done this but have taken a slightly different tact.  In my instance I welded sleeves of square tubing directly onto the sides of my main frame rails, and the log bolsters plug into them.  

In the photo below, we fabricated an upper support that spans between the two outer sides of the removable log bolster.  This allows me to transport logs that are longer than the trailer by setting one end up on top of the gooseneck tongue, and the other end on the upper support on the log bolster.  

The main tubing is 4” .250 wall.  We did all aspects of the fabrication here on the farm.  If you look closely in the pic you can see the suitcase MIG in the background and ground lead attached to the bolster.  I recall taking this pic right after I welded the pins on the bottom of the bolster that engage the tubing inserts in the deck.

If you look closely at the log bolster you can see where it plugs into the sleeves that are flush to the trailer deck.

My setup is over-built for a gooseneck, but I prefer the extra safety margin.  That’s why I utilized the frame mounting system instead of the perimeter.

The bottom pic is of me transporting a 60’ log with this setup (borrowing my wife’s F450 at the time!)



 

[doc henderson]

WOW!  looks well built.  limit on my mill is 21 feet so I will not be tempted.  

[doc henderson]

Ed they look great.  any idea of the cost?  the shipping and all may add up.  as a hobby guy that all factors in.  I haul logs about once a month.  my tree guys drop them off.  but it only take one bad incident to make it all not worth it.  got to be safe.