sharpening question

[Durf700]

Reading this thread caused me to change my mind 3 times about how I am going to do my next batch. I do need to invent a desetter.

if you come up with a simple good de-setter please share.  I want to be able to de-set also!
thanks!
for the record, I sharpen and then set! ( BMS 250 and BMT 250)

[firefighter ontheside]

I ordered a Wood-Mizer BMS 25 last April and still haven't seen it.

That's the other thing.  Of the two, I'd rather have the woodmizer, but the best one to order might be the one I can actually get.  I'm also going to look into the Viel and see if I can get it.

[Dan R]

If I remember from the early 80 s running a new Woodmizer and the owner had a sharpener he had a desetter that was two rollers that you ran the blade through and it would squeeze the teeth back strait then you would set and sharpen. 
Dan

[barbender]

Unless I actually hit a foreign object, I've never had teeth increase in set where I would need to de-set them first. I typically only set after the third or fourth sharpening, unless I am cutting something where I want a lot of set. I've never seen the teeth "move" from sawing, they just consistantly lose set with each sharpening from the teeth getting shorter.

[ladylake]

 
 I'm not a big fan of desetting ,  those teeth are brittle enough without bending them back and forth.  Steve

[kelLOGg]

There are times when the ability to de-setting a band is a plus. I can do it on my single tooth Cat Claw setter by putting the band on the base of the setter beneath the anvil so when the handle is actuated the moving plate on which the anvil is mounted presses the band to the back stationary plate removing enough of the set to allow resetting. However, I rarely need to do this.

Also, on the subject of sharpening is cleaning the band and zeroing the setter. If the band gullet (tip to tip) is not free of sawdust the push finger on the sharpener can accumulate sawdust as it pushes and push the band too far allowing the tooth to miss the grinding wheel.

To zero the setter I use a piece of flat stock. Some use the raker tooth for zeroing but if it has developed set that makes it a bad choice. I have noticed that the rakers on my bands frequently are "set" up to about 0.005". They still function a raker tooth but would do poorly for setting.

[Chuck White]

When a blade is sent to Wood-Mizer Resharp, the blade will run through desetter rolls!

That's where I got the idea to build my own!

The teeth are not deset back to zero, they are partially deset, my desetter is set up so the teeth have about .012-.013 set in them when done.

[jimbarry]

This is from WM's sharpening manual. 

If you sharpen, then set, your tooth orientation will look like the 'Sharp Blade' face view diagram.

If you set first, then sharpen, your tooth orientation looks like the 'Perfectly Sharp Blade' face view diagram.

I've adopted the practise of set first, then sharpen. I do this for my own blades and our customers. No one complains of wavy cuts.





 

[jimbarry]

The next page in that manual is this.

A lot of blades that come through the shop had pitch build up that needs to be cleaned off first. 

I follow #2 if the blades are in ok condition. I follow #3 for reconditioning the blades that are really dull or have been deformed.

[jimbarry]

The final page is this. It's for sharpening processes that don't have (or don't require) cleaning.

When reconditioning blades that don't require cleaning, I follow this decision process.




 

[terrifictimbersllc]

The diagrams are convincing as to why setting, then sharpening give a tooth ground square to the main body of the band.  But the angles shown illustrate the result from the starting point of a blade having zero set.  Most blades that I set will be pushed over less than 5 thousandths, about 1/5 of the total set, so the difference between which operation I do first is minor compared to that shown in the diagram.