Did something dumb today.

[Daburner87]

@Daburner87 , are you using a single or double cable for parbuckling your logs up? I always use a double and that helps to keep the log straighter and minimize slipping. just make a half loop, pull it up under the log, then attach your winch to the center of the loop. That might help.

Where are you in NY? I didn't see it in the profile. I'm in Ulster county.

Do you have a picture of the double cable method you use OG?  I was only using a single cable.

[beenthere]

Daburner
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parbuckle_salvage

Also
Sycamore Parbuckling - YouTube

[rusticretreater]

One of the first things I did on my mill was hit the log dog.   I stood there for a minute or two just thinking about how I needed to develop a routine for checking things prior to each cut.  Now its second nature, lean to the left, look, lean to the right, look.  When the mill head stops, don't push harder!

[Old Greenhorn]

I really do appreciate all the kind words because I've been bummed out about it the last day or two.  I live in Suffolk County, NY.  

I was thinking to order that mega hook, but I'm hoping my winch can do all the hard work for me going forward.  Had a bit of time to play with it today, I just mounted it to my former "hand crank" winch post, and figured out the wiring.  Gonna skip the quick disconnects I mentioned in another thread and just use some heavy gauge jumper cables instead.  

I will be back at it this weekend if I can and hopefully with better results.

Aw geez, you shouldn't get bummed out by that at all. Yes, it's a little disappointing to not be able to do what you set out for or running into difficulties, but this is part of the 'game' and you just have to laugh a little, accept it, and move on. Every one of us has learned the same exact way. You can't be an expert right out of the gate, no matter how much thought and study you put into it. If it was easy, nobody would buy lumber at Lowes. :D
 I don't use a parbuckle system on my mill, I have a nice ramp and it's easy (?) with the logrite to get them up. But I do use the system I described to get logs up on my pile. I had no photos but I did recall shooting a video of it about a year and a half ago. I am uploding it now and will post it here when available.

[Old Greenhorn]

That went quicker than I thought. You may have to pause the video to figure out how the cable runs go, but it's very simple. Let me know if there are any confusing parts. This is a log pile, but on a mill it would pretty much be the same, with a lot less load on the winch of course.
Parbuckling logs up onto the pile. - YouTube

[SawyerTed]

Don't discount the "kind words".  Recognize that we've been through the struggles.  We do know how it feels.

So with that in mind, learn what it means to parbuckle logs onto the sawmill bed. Also think about what double blocks will do to increase your capacity to move logs.  The science of block and tackle is worth knowing if you have more time than money (for heavy equipment to move logs). 😂 

[Southside]

A set of 250 Amp Anderson connectors will give you a much better connection than jumper cables resulting in a happier winch, cooler leads, longer living battery, etc.  

As far as hitting the backstop goes; there are two types of sawyers, those that try to cut off pieces of their sawmill with the sawmill, and those that lie about ever having done so.  Welcome to the club.  Rather than get mad about it, when someone is looking, these days I brag about just how sharp my bands are and how much HP my engine is putting out based on on how much carnage the latest strike created, and yes a 55 HP diesel will create a lot of carnage.   :D FWIW stainless steel sure cuts hard.  :

[firefighter ontheside]

When I parbuckle logs up onto my trailer, I use chains going under the log attached to each side of the trailer.  Both chains come together and hook to the winch cable.  This does two things for me...prevents me from having to pull so much cable off the spool and stabilizes the log coming up the ramp.

[boonesyard]

This should probably go in a different spot, but oh was it "I did something dumb today".

We had just finished up running a bunch of pine shiplap on the table saw. I decided to be smart and clean the dado set right away. So I sprayed some tool cleaner on the blades, let it sit for a couple minutes, and then going to run some dry white oak thru to clean it up.

Note so self: go to bypass mode on sawstop when there's moisture involved.

  

Was able to dig the dado set out and can be reused. Only chipped one carbide on a blade, but won't forget that anytime soon. 

[SawyerTed]

Is that the replaceable stop mechanism?

[firefighter ontheside]

 That's interesting that that will happen, but I guess it makes sense.  It looks like the the blade wasn't going full speed when it triggered.  When I triggered mine on the dado set, it ruined one of the outer blades and one of the chippers.  I ended up buying a whole new set.  My dumb move cost me about $300 for new cartridge and a new dado set.  I hit my miter gauge because I forgot to re-set the clearance for the dado.  

 @SawyerTed yes that's the cartridge that stops the blade.  It tips forward into the blade.  The teeth imbed into the honeycombed aluminum and it can also squish where you see the bigger holes to absorb some of the force.  I have one like that hanging on my wall as a reminder unfortunately.

[SawyerTed]

SawStop saws were just beginning to be purchased in school shops when I moved to state administration of Career and Technical Education.  I haven't seen one in operation but have been thinking about buying one. 

[firefighter ontheside]

It was kind of a nobrainer when I got mine.  I wanted to upgrade to a 3hp cabinet saw.  It is a great saw, even without the safety mechanism and its comparable in price to a powermatic.  

[Andries]

I've got an old Delta Unisaw and have been mulling a move over to the Sawstop as well. 
Several local guys have said that the saw is really top notch in terms of being well designed, accurate and an all round smooth powerhouse. They considered the safety features to be an added bonus. 
I've wondered though, does anyone know if the safety gets triggered by really fresh green lumber? EG: using the saw to straight line rip flitches fresh off the mill? . . . or is that a "by pass setting" situation?

[firefighter ontheside]

There's really no definitive answer for that question.  Sawstop won't give any kind of moisture cutoff.  You may cut 100 pieces with out a problem and then bam.  The saw has been known to trigger on wet treated wood, but that may have more to do with the chemicals in the wood.  I would never try it.  Even in bypass I won't cut wet wood on my saw.  If you feel inclined to try it, you can put the saw in bypass and have someone watch the lights and it should indicate if the saw would have triggered.  Then if you felt comfortable with it, then you could try it in regular mode, but I feel you're asking for trouble.

I have cut lots of air dried wood on my saw without any trouble, so I would suggest something like 12% moisture as a cutoff.

[Andries]

Good suggestions, thanks FFotS

[WDH]

Definitely use bypass mode for sawing green lumber.  

[Don P]

I've been mid rip with treated on one when my light bulb came on, happily it didn't trip but that was asking for it. Dad said they got one for the shop at the "old folks" community which was good to hear. I'm pretty sure when he was a shop teacher they went out to the pit saw.

[GAB]

I've been mid rip with treated on one when my light bulb came on, happily it didn't trip but that was asking for it. Dad said they got one for the shop at the "old folks" community which was good to hear. I'm pretty sure when he was a shop teacher they went out to the pit saw.

Don:
Just how many generations are there between you and your Dad?
My curious mind would like to know.
GAB

[boonesyard]

I know there's a split in table saw owners in that they either hate the idea of the sawstop or really like it. I know there were some politics involved with the company at one time. We've got the ICS 3 HP model and all I know is the thing is a top notch saw, built like a tank and all the power we'll ever need. We've pushed over 5,000 lf thru it (I need a power feed) in the short time we've had it and it just works. I've used it in by-pass mode a couple times when I thought some stock may be in question, but that works too, as long as you don't forget it  .

[Andries]

Where is the light located? It indicates when the saw would trigger the blade drop and lock, right? Can you see the bulb when hand feeding stock into the blade?

[firefighter ontheside]

On the switch box in front there is the regular paddle switch to start the saw, there is also a system power switch that I leave on all the time and there are 2 little lights.  Red and green.  With the main power on and the saw not running, I can touch the blade and the red light will go on telling me it is working.  Bypass is done with a key and a series of key turns timed just right.  It is not easy to do and won't happen on accident.  As soon as you turn the saw off, it goes back to regular mode and will have to re-activate bypass each time. I use bypass very seldom and have to read the instructions each time I do it.

I kind of had an attitude at first about sawstop.  "I know what I'm doing and I don't need that, but then it occurrred to me that accidents happen to the best of us"   Plus, its a top notch saw and therefore I wasn't just paying for the safety device, but a great and powerful saw.

[Crusarius]

I really like the sawstop and have thought alot about getting older, having kids, and how my mind likes to wander. Just the thought of being in the shop with the kids and them bumping into my when running a board through makes me want one very much. 

Plus I became quite intimate with them at one of the AWI woodworking shows I was working when my booth was right across the aisle from theirs. I watched alot of demos and talked to the sales guys alot. After 3 days I decided one day I want one. but until I have a dedicated wood shop that doesn't have steel grinder dust and machining chips in it I cannot justify it.

During the demo the guys used the same blade. It had easily been stopped 100 times and it was not damaged beyond use.

[firefighter ontheside]

I think my biggest risk in the shop is people coming in when i'm running a machine and I get startled.  My family knows not to come in when there's a machine running, but occasionally it could be someone coming to buy something or a delivery person.  

[firefighter ontheside]

Today I remembered that I needed to do some work on my winch on the trailer to be able to use it for loading some logs.  The last time I used it one of the studs for attaching the battery started spinning when I thought I was just loosening the nut.  I had to take the end of the motor off and expose the magnets.  I discovered that by spinning that stud, one of the wires from the stud to the magnet had broken off.  I managed to solder on a new wire, but boy was it difficult to get it all re-installed with those spring loaded magnets.  I finally got it all back together and must have reversed the polarity.  In was out and out was in on my controls.  I guess I can just reverse the polarity at the battery end now and make it work right.  I am NOT taking it apart again.  I will buy a new winch before I do that.