Norse/Igland or Farmi/Wallenstein style?

[wisconsitom]

Looking at Farmi web pages, seems the 290 is no more, but that something called W30R may be occupying that size point.  Anyone know what's going on with that?  Looks about the same.

Not finding used so far.

Heh, my neighbor's got his dad's old Gafner iron mule parked next door these days.  Maybe it'll come in handy if still around in a few years.  Picking up piles.

[47sawdust]

Hilltop mentioned square link choker chain.I understand the advantage for weight and gripping power but can't seem to find it for less than $4.00 a lf., and that is out of stock. Then their is Pewag at $14 a lf.

[Hilltop366]

I never said it was cheap. :D

[NE Woodburner]

Not finding used so far.

Tough to find good used 3pt winches. I looked for years and never saw anything decent that wasn't close to the price of new.

[47sawdust]

I sold a 30 year old Farmi 290 last year for $1950, sold within an hour of listing.It was gently used and shed kept.

[mike_belben]

thats why ive taken to electric winches.  Pto units require a fair bit of machining or money to fab and a lot of money to buy.  Electric winch can be had for the cost of chokers and battery cable.  Not as good but it can get a poor man started without debt. 

[wisconsitom]

Point taken Mike.

Heh, plot thickens;  Three Rivers Forestry is out of business.  Widow of deceased owner forwarded me number of what I'm sure is Northeastern Forestry or whatever it's called in NY state....where they had gotten winches from anyway.  How's that circus tune go...dee dee diddle diddle dee dee dee dee.

Good thing I'm just a retired guy planning and plotting how I'm going to fill my time for the next few years! :D

[thecfarm]

I suppose it's been said here. I think most tractor dealers can get a winch. I see them around here.
They all do the same thing. Get one and you will enjoy it and wonder why you did not get it sooner.  ;)

[mudfarmer]

They sure hold their value! My super old normet Farmi was $1200, no dickering, I was there 2hrs after ad posted and he was on the phone half the time telling people it was already sold. If you are in the market for a used one keep a wad of cash on hand and be willing to hit the road asap

[wisconsitom]

I'm sure that's good advice, mud.

@thecfarm, I'm right there with ya!  I'm going to have my CFO-her name is Cheri-get in touch with you in a little bit😁

[thecfarm]

I will tell her it will keep you out of her hair outside more.
As I tell the wife sometimes, Time for me to go outside.   ;)
Tell her it will last for years.
It's the only thing that I have had, that I did not have to spend repair money on or weld a lot on it. I had it since 1993.

[g_man]

I sold a 30 year old Farmi 290 last year for $1950, sold within an hour of listing.It was gently used and shed kept.

That is more than I paid for mine 20 years ago ($1700) and is typical. You generally will not loose money buying a good winch. The initial outlay may be hard but you can get your money back .
gg  

[wisconsitom]

Half of this guys is I am going to really enjoy having one of these things, and have some good use for it.  The other half is I'm dying to plug something into that rotating shaft on the back of my tractor😏.. ain't used it yet.

Along the same vein, I salivate over those Austrian 3-pt. Pto-driven post peeler/pointer machines, equally spendiferous.  

Amidst all my meanders here, end goal is to maximize utility of tractor I have, in all aspects of managing my postage stamp.  Wife and I were frugal all our lives and while nowhere near well off, the gradual acquisition of key bits of equip. is definitely on my agenda.  Have thought many times my tractor is ideal scale for what I've got.  Want to keep that same scale with attachments, etc.  Maybe I'm back to looking at that smallest Krpan.  Seeming to be best price of all comparable units.

[g_man]

Anyone with a Uniforest winch maybe interested in this video that I happened across. Made by Hudson - the guy said he's got so many questions on the manual because it is written in broken English, quote, he decided to do a manual video and more. It is very complete. Includes everything like how to measure and cut the the pto shaft, set-up, use, and maintenance. A lot of it pertains to any winch.

Uniforest Winch Set Up and mounting to a PTO on a Tractor - Hud-son - YouTube

gg

[wisconsitom]

Cool gg, I'm going to look at that vid later.  Quick question though, regarding pto shaft length, when you say "cut", is this something purchaser has to do?  Or is this reference to measuring pre-order?

[PoginyHill]

You'll probably need to cut your PTO shaft. Every tractor set-up is different: (distance from shaft to 3point hitch mounts is what will determine shaft length). You could probably have the dealer cut it for you if you buy from a place that has maintenance folks. But you'd either have to bring the tractor to them, or mount the winch and measure the required shaft length and bring it to them.

[mike_belben]

No big deal.  You are just pulling the telescoping shaft apart, trimming the male and sticking it back together. No welding or straightening etc.  The protective sleeve prob gets the same haircut.  


Get you something while theres something left to get.  As the money supply outstrips the equipment supply you will forever be saying "boy im glad i bought that when they were cheap."

[wisconsitom]

I think you're probably right Mike.  See what I can do.

Had a couple brain, er, passings of gas last night;. One, I've got some old scraps of arborists lowering line.  Seems a guy, if he didn't have nice chain chokers, could tie logs with a running bowline or equivalent knot and tie other end to sliders.  Running bowline will hold fast but never tighten up hard to untie.

Other notion comes from the arborist world as well-placing a floating block anywhere you want by tying off to two trees with ropes.  For when the right tree in the right spot doesn't exist.

[mike_belben]

Arborist rope is totally fine.. Every bit as strong as a chicom chain.

Bowline, bowline on a bight and figure 8 work for a fixed eyelets.   "Anchor bend" and half hitches for closed eyelets.  Never ever a double fishermans youll be cutting that sucker off.  The anchor bend is so fast and easy with no trouble untying.  Almost always my first choice for tying to a ring or carabiner etc.

[wisconsitom]

Yeah anchor hitch good on rings.  For cinching up to logs, running bowline can't be beat, stays taught under tension but never tightens up for untying.

Heh, just looked and I still have a length of old manilla stuff.  That's gotta be 35years old.  Mostly scraps of polyester.  But I digress.

[wisconsitom]

Northeast Implement-sole US supplier of Farmi, tells me the W30R, the equivalent of the 290, is being revamped, with availability late summer.  danG it.  That one is closest to what I need.

Modified to add....in reality, end of summer is right about when I need it.  Wondering if the price will also be revamped!  No I'm not...😭

[wisconsitom]

@thecfarm I hate to keep bugging you about this when you've made your view so clear-get a winch!!-but now that it looks like Igland may be an option for me with their 2501, this and most current models I looked at have fixed upper fairleads, no apparent swivelling ability.  Is your old Norse like that, and if so, ever any grief on account of?

2nd question, these current types don't appear to have chain slots for hooking up choked up logs.  Wonder if I'm interpreting what I'm seeing correctly, and how much an issue, if at all.

For some reason I thought Norse/Igland was a more expensive option than some others, but now see the reverse may be true.  TIA

[thecfarm]

The top one does not swivel, but the bottom one does.
I never had any trouble with that at all.
But I don't pull at any and I mean ANY sharp angles. So no reason for the swivel pulley. Well for it to swivel a lot is what I mean.
The notches I hardly ever use. Really the only time I use them is at the wood yard. I want to move a log and I just use the notches for that. If I am coming out of the woods and run into a rough spot, I can drop the twitch and get across it and winch the twitch back in. I myself would not miss them if they were not there. But at the same time, I wonder why they are not there.  ???
I use to haul out pine 3 feet across with my winch. Can't use the notches with stuff that size.  ;)   Never had any problem with it.
I notice the box is on the wrong side too.  ???   I have boxes on each side of mine to keep the end of the chains in. I would not like that. I think there should be one on each side, or at least the operator side. Nothing a welder can't fix. I buy stuff and then have to weld on it to make it the way I want it.

[wisconsitom]

Thanks bud.  On further inspection, it looks like they did put a couple chain slots on top the blade, either side of mast, should be adequate. 

[mike_belben]

From a high pulley, sidepull will try to pull the winch over sideways and twist up the top link, since there is no down pressure on a 3 point. they float down so are willing to be raised up by forces without resisting.  One corner of the buttplate will be jammed down while the other is lifted up and the winch articulates independant of the tractor until the top link spherical bearing is out of travel and starts to bend.  This is because the pulley is above the height of the toplink, providing leverage against the whole system.  So youll want a pretty straight top pull which isnt always convenient.


You want to buy or DIY a means to fasten a swiveling cable guide pulley down low within the imaginary confines of the 3 connection points so that pulling from that anchor site cannot induce the winch chassis to rotate.  This will allow a full side pull which your nice tight stabilizer chains are designed to resist without allowing the lift arms or toplink to be injured by it.  

It could be done crudely by welding a centered D-ring down low on the buttplate and attatching a swivel crane hook with a pulley.   you use an Idler pulley with bearings, and capture it to the swivel eyelets with a pair of pins or bolts through flat steel shackle plates like a leaf spring suspension.  This will give you a cable redirect that you keep in your 5 gallon gearbucket or clanging off the junk pegs that youll weld all over your new toy before long.  Use as needed to get that log from beside the trail to line up behind you.  It is also a universal snatch or redirect.  An automotive or lawn and garden belt idler will work fine for a cable pulley as long as its steel.

Harbor freight has conventional snatch blocks for $30 that can be cut and welded into the fixed swing pulley style that krpan etc use.

This is the crane hook.

Crane Hook, with Latch Alloy Steel Crane Hoist Hook Drop Forged Alloy Steel Swivel Eye Hook, 1 Ton Working Load Limit,for Industry, Ship, Building(Red): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Im sure theres a few other ways one could rig it up too.  The bigger the pulley radius the better for your cable life obviously.